Buzz911S

My dealer told me before I bought the car how much the service would be. But he also told me that when I bring it back for the first service at 20k, they do a lot more than just change the oil. They go over all the suspension and re-tourque everything too. Might be worthwhile to take it in at 20k and have it done, even if you are changing it early now.

I don't understand the statement of OCBen above. Where are these paper filters located? Are they in the threaded cannister you can just take off? Where do you find the Porsche filters to replace the old ones? And, no.... I have no idea about doing my first Pcar oil change.....but it sounds so easy, why not? Mobile 1 0-40 is only $7.50/quart here. And the only other thing I would need is the paper filter? Im at 4000 miles now, and I don't like the idea of breaking a car in and then driving it on the same oil for 20k.

raffi

get the paper filter from ebay or any online porsche dealer (usually cheaper than your local dealer).
get the mobil 1 from autozone or any equivalent store...
I stocked up on supplies when i first got my car
I got 6 oem porsche filters with all the rings etc for about $60
and 4 cases of mobil 0-40 for 4.50/quart, I think the regular price is like 5.99 but they usually discount them.

SamG

Just had my 997S in for it's 20K service at MY Porsche in Monterey. Actually the car told me it was ready at 18,500 miles. I took 9 qts of oil with me (paid $5.59 qt at Kragen) This saved me about $50 so I guess the dealer was going to charge me $12 qt. Total for the 20K service was $304 with tax, plus the $54 I paid for the oil.

While it was there they also did 3 recall repairs and fixed an issue that I had with the passenger seat cushion. Took about 4 hours and they gave me a free rental car to use (I couldn't talk them into loaning me the new Cayman)

The first oil change was done at 8500 miles. I really don't see the point in changing the oil any more frequently than that, especially if you have a dealer do it. I would change oil once a year though, no matter who few miles I put on the car.

OCBen

From Renntech.org: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7055

DJ23

I changed mine at 2500 miles after breakin period. Dealer did it without any objections. My question is for us owners who live in the NorthEast and have to let our cars sit for awhile, should we change the oil again in the spring before beginning another season? Does something happen to the oil after letting it sit idle for a long period of time?

Jay

fast1

The Dealer will replace your oil as frequently as you desire, provided that you are willing to pay him for it. I also use to be an advocate of the 3 month/ 3K mile oil change routine, but with synthetic oil and improved oil filters, I follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Moreover, why would Porsche suggest these long intervals if they believed it would hurt the engine. Certainly they wouldn't lose any sales if their oil change recommended interval were cut in half.

Buzz911S

Aha! Thanks OCBen!!! A picture is worth a thousand words.
That DOES look easy. Boy, you guys sure are getting a deal on the Mobil 1.
0-40 costs me $7.50/quart.

Driveby

Opinions on this topic are rampant. As a rule I split the manufacturer's recommendation in half. My '06 C4S will see 10K oil changes. The only exception I will make is a oil change prior to a track day.

In the end it all depends upon what you are comfortable doing ... personally I would make sure the air filter is clean (change it often) and do the changes at 10K.

uzj100

Not so, Ben. I should have been a bit clearer in my post though. When I said hand tight, I meant that I don't use a torque device for either a "spin on" or filter element/canister type, preferring to snug them by hand (I do the same thing with drain plugs too). Just the way I learned (refer to my earlier PM to you)--and of course I learned the hard way about too tight filters and drain plugs, and loosening and draining differential and transfer cases, then discovering that the fill plugs are frozen on .

OCBen

Even though I've done it a zillion times I always use a reliable torque wrench. That way you'll never run the risk of overtightening.

uzj100

No argument from me on that, it's just that over the years I've done fine with hand snugging on the filters and drain plugs--I am, however, quite **** on things like suspension components, wheel lugs etc and I get my torque wrenches calibrated periodically. If anything, my filters and drain plugs are probably a bit under specified tightness specs. I tend to use the smallest driver (say 1/4" vs. 3/8") for tightening, and shorter handled wrenches.

On some torque wrenches actual vs.spec torque can be off by +/- 4% or more. Hmmmm, I know you're an engineer so maybe you've got acess to a torque calibration machine at your work, or know someone who does.

These discussions are always good to share little "secrets" or tricks learned over the years--and as I said I've had to learn them the hard way many times

DJ23

Thanks fast 1. I will not change oil in the spring. As a matter of fact I was able to get my car out on the morning of Christmas eve, let it warm up and went on a 40 minute run. She ran with precision. A little white smoke when warming up, but that dissapated as the enging reached temperature.
Thanks for the info.

Jay

jcnesq

I changed mine at 10 months / not quite 10,000 miles. My mechanic (who I trust) told me not to waste money doing it earlier. Dealer charged $161 for labor, oil and filter.

Rolf Stumberger

Johnny Narcosis ,
You do not have to spend $25 or more for the oil filter wrench .
You need a 74 mm wrench which can be purchased at most car part stores for under $5.
I bought one at Walmart for $ 2.95
PS: The same wrench also fits my MB.

ricm

Can anyone recommend a good independent P facility on the Monterey Peninsula for minor service on a late 997.2?

Thanks!