How do you access the drain plug and filter? Do you put the car on stands or ramps? If so, how level does the car need to be to properly drain? The directions in the DIY forum says to drain the oil while it is warm/hot. Sure can't wiggle under the car on the ground and get this done while the engine is hot.

Doing first change at 2300 miles just because. It's fun to work on the car and there isn't a whole lot that I can do other than this type of easy maintainence.

Thanks for any help.

MW

 

Easiest way is to drive the car up on a couple of 2 x 6 inch boards. It makes it more than high enough to get to the plug and filter.

 

does changing your own oil void the warranty? Sorry in advance, I don't have a manual yet as i am a waiter and have not downloaded from Coochas site

 

Nope. You can DIY.

 

How does one reset the computer warning?

 

Huh?

Not sure what warning you're referring to. But if it has nothing to do with changing the oil, I suggest you post this in this thread on non sequiturs:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/241957-spin-the-topic-non-sequiturs-on-the-997-a.html

 

You’ll want to have your car as level as possible in order to ensure maximum drainage of the old oil. If your driveway has a slight grade you can raise your car to change your oil and keep it level at the same time with a pair of low rise ramps. Mine are custom made of wood – a good neighbor made them for me. I’m sure there are low rise ramps available especially made for sports cars.

Anyway, I position the ramps behind the rear wheels such that when I back out of the garage and onto the ramps the rear wheels will come to rest at the top landing of the ramps with the front wheels remaining on the garage floor. In my case, this makes the car almost perfectly horizontal given the grade and the rise of the ramp. (You can actually make your own custom ramps knowing the grade of your driveway and the wheelbase of your car. Ask and I’ll show you a simple way of doing the trig yourself.)

So, with this arrangement, I have plenty of clearance for sliding underneath the car to change the oil. What’s nice about backing up the ramps is that the leading edges of the ramps are out of your way when you crawl underneath to work on the car.

Changing the oil in a boxer engine is the easiest oil change I’ve ever done. And there’s nothing as rewarding as doing it yourself. (Not to mention the money you’ll save.)

 

I might add a caveat here, or maybe more like a suggestion or two? I keep a maintenance log, which is actually a 3 ring binder with dividers in it. I keep all ROs, parts and material receipts etc in the appropriate tab. I set up a simple Excel schedule and record ALL expenses, date and mileage and type of service performed and mileage at each oil change.

This makes it easy to document everything you've done to the vehicle and to clearly show that you've used the right parts and oil. I just consider it good info to have if you have a warranty claim and the dealer questions your service history

 

I am sorry that I missed it, where is that DIY direction again?

 

Hmmmm, could this be the begining of a new business for you?

Uncle Ben's "Ramps"

 

Good point, Joe, and thanks for bringing it up.

Yes, by all means, keep good maintenance records. Use whatever method works best for you, but at a minimum save your receipts for the oil and the oil filters and record date & mileage at oil change.

I have a folder hanger labeled for each car in a file drawer. Inside each hanger I have folders for parts receipts, service receipts, & misc. items receipts (car cover, detailing supplies, etc.). I also use a spreadsheet to record date & mileage that calculates the delta mileage from the last oil change, brake pad change, plug change, etc.

For those looking for the easiest & least amount of effort of record keeping, a simple spiral notebook with the receipts stapled to the page of record will suffice.

 

Ha ha. ... Nahhh, for something like that it would cost too much to produce to be able to generate a decent margin and sell it at an acceptable price point.

Uncle Ben's Rants, however, are free for the taking.

 

Another reason for doing your own oil changes, is the chest puffing, belly rubbing, smirking exclamations you can spout to anyone within ear shot, as in "yep, do my own maintenance, no rip off dealers for me!" And it's an excuse for buying more tools too =)

 

Please be safe and make sure the ramps or whatever you use are rated for the weight. I new a local guy who was crushed by using homemade ramps that gave way. That being said, these cars are very easy to do oil changes on as long as you have the right oil filter cover wrench. Earlier air cooled boxer engines were a lot harder, especially the 964's and 993's and the earlier cars included adjusting the valves every 10k while doing the oil change which meant you had to drop all 4 valve covers, and drain the oil tank as well as the block which meant the many bolts to remove and clean the screen. I still do my 74 and it takes a while and is very messy. The 996's, 986's and 997's are a peice of cake. Just like earlier posts, keep good records and Porsche will honor your warranty.

 

Good point. Mine are made from a solid block of wood.