The Official V1 Hardwire Install Progress Thread
09-18-2005, 11:57 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The Official V1 Hardwire Install Progress Thread
I am starting this thread to document the installation of my V1 on the front windshield with hardwiring into a switched power source at the interior cabin light. To avoid confusion, this installation pertains to a 2006 997S that has the auto-dimming rear view mirror (because that mirror appears to have a switched voltage source).
In a perfect world, I would like the power wire to route from the V1 to the plastic cover thing that has the white LED that illuminates the interior of the cabin (behind the rear view mirror). This is the lowest point on the windshield that has the switched power wire (assuming I could ever find that wire under that cover and it is 12 VDC) and it would represent the absolute shortest wire run. However, I tried to remove that cover but it must snap on there pretty hard. I got a couple of small scuff marks under the cover trying to remove it - not that you'll ever see it because its hidden - but I decided to abandon this approach.
Next, thanks to Board member tnunnery, I was able to remove the interior light cluster in the headliner that contains the bulbs to light the cabin. And what did I find? Not only are the wires there to connect the light harness (obviously), but also the connector harness is right there that travels down the wire stalk to the plastic cover thing that then travels to the rear view mirror. Excellent. This is progress. If I can find the correct wires, I can simply run the power wire to the V1 down that same wire stalk behind the rear view mirror. Its a bit of a longer run because I will be running a wire parallel to the existing wire stalk, but it will still be quite stealth.
The wire connector harness that connects to the rear view mirror / rain sensor wipers has 9 wires in the connector. That's alot to choose from. My Radio Sheck digital meter appears to be wacked out, however, as I cannot even measure 12 VDC at the cig lighter with the display going bonkers (I had this problem in the past). So, I need a new meter. I cannot continue until I get the new meter.
I am first going to hunt for a switched 12 VDC source at the light cluster assembly cable harness. Who know's....maybe I will get lucky. There are several wires that connect to that light assembly.
Then, if that does not work, I will try the 9 wire harness. Once I get the meter, the first step is to find the ground wire using the continuity tester function of the meter. I will use the cig lighter ground as the 'true test ground' and then hunt for a ground up there in the wire harness. I may tap a ground from the light cluster cause it is more simple. If I can find that ground wire, its on to step 2.
Step 2 is to get the 12 VDC switched wire. If I cannot find it on the light cluster, I will find the 1 wire in that 9 wire harness that goes hot upon ignition. My fear is that there will be more than 1 wire that goes hot, i.e., a hot wire for the rain sensor electronics. But, playing with the wiper controls while metering should help eliminate the wrong wires.
I am not that worried about power draw. I am assuming if I exceed the power draw I will just blow a fuse. BTW, there is ample room up in the light cluster to place the V1 inline fuse.
Keep in mind...worst case scenerio is that I tap the interior dome light 12VDC source for unswitched power. So, either way, I am wiring the V1 to that dome light area.
I will post progress on this thread and post pictures and wire colors, etc. It seems I am the first to do this project so wish me luck. Any helpful tips will be greatly appreciated.
- Adam
In a perfect world, I would like the power wire to route from the V1 to the plastic cover thing that has the white LED that illuminates the interior of the cabin (behind the rear view mirror). This is the lowest point on the windshield that has the switched power wire (assuming I could ever find that wire under that cover and it is 12 VDC) and it would represent the absolute shortest wire run. However, I tried to remove that cover but it must snap on there pretty hard. I got a couple of small scuff marks under the cover trying to remove it - not that you'll ever see it because its hidden - but I decided to abandon this approach.
Next, thanks to Board member tnunnery, I was able to remove the interior light cluster in the headliner that contains the bulbs to light the cabin. And what did I find? Not only are the wires there to connect the light harness (obviously), but also the connector harness is right there that travels down the wire stalk to the plastic cover thing that then travels to the rear view mirror. Excellent. This is progress. If I can find the correct wires, I can simply run the power wire to the V1 down that same wire stalk behind the rear view mirror. Its a bit of a longer run because I will be running a wire parallel to the existing wire stalk, but it will still be quite stealth.
The wire connector harness that connects to the rear view mirror / rain sensor wipers has 9 wires in the connector. That's alot to choose from. My Radio Sheck digital meter appears to be wacked out, however, as I cannot even measure 12 VDC at the cig lighter with the display going bonkers (I had this problem in the past). So, I need a new meter. I cannot continue until I get the new meter.
I am first going to hunt for a switched 12 VDC source at the light cluster assembly cable harness. Who know's....maybe I will get lucky. There are several wires that connect to that light assembly.
Then, if that does not work, I will try the 9 wire harness. Once I get the meter, the first step is to find the ground wire using the continuity tester function of the meter. I will use the cig lighter ground as the 'true test ground' and then hunt for a ground up there in the wire harness. I may tap a ground from the light cluster cause it is more simple. If I can find that ground wire, its on to step 2.
Step 2 is to get the 12 VDC switched wire. If I cannot find it on the light cluster, I will find the 1 wire in that 9 wire harness that goes hot upon ignition. My fear is that there will be more than 1 wire that goes hot, i.e., a hot wire for the rain sensor electronics. But, playing with the wiper controls while metering should help eliminate the wrong wires.
I am not that worried about power draw. I am assuming if I exceed the power draw I will just blow a fuse. BTW, there is ample room up in the light cluster to place the V1 inline fuse.
Keep in mind...worst case scenerio is that I tap the interior dome light 12VDC source for unswitched power. So, either way, I am wiring the V1 to that dome light area.
I will post progress on this thread and post pictures and wire colors, etc. It seems I am the first to do this project so wish me luck. Any helpful tips will be greatly appreciated.
- Adam
09-19-2005, 11:48 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, my V1 was delivered to me by UPS today. Call me crazy, but it appears actually getting the V1 is a necessary step to the installation. 
I am buying a new meter at lunch. I will be a metering maniac tonight.
I am buying a new meter at lunch. I will be a metering maniac tonight.
09-19-2005, 01:22 PM
#6
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Found this on the PCA website Q&A Tech section, where a guy asked the experts about hardwiring a V1. Looks like roof liner has no power to tap from:
" Hardwiring is nice but hard since you would have to pull power from the fuse box for key on power. There is nothing in the top of the roof by the windshield to use for this. And put a fuse inline when you do it..."
Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 5/30/2005
" Hardwiring is nice but hard since you would have to pull power from the fuse box for key on power. There is nothing in the top of the roof by the windshield to use for this. And put a fuse inline when you do it..."
Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 5/30/2005
09-19-2005, 01:49 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks MMD. This is perplexing to me. At the very least, there is the dome light for unswitched power, which I assume is 12 VDC. At the very best, there is the switched power for the self dimming rear view mirror which is definitely switched power but unknown if it is 12 VDC (not yet known at least).
I am looking forward to metering tonight and will keep everyone notified.
I am looking forward to metering tonight and will keep everyone notified.
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09-19-2005, 03:34 PM
#9
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The other thing I tought about? The frickin' car is a computer, no longer run by a computer, it IS a computer. So the "normal" assumptions about power and tapping into lines that have power probably don't apply anymore.
For example, and I'm just speculating here, say you succeed in tapping into the rainsensor 12v supply. It MAY also be used as a *sender for code* from the rainsensor to a chip somewhere! So you now are messing with messages because the V1 amperage draw is really messing stuff up! So there goe's your warrenty: poof! I'm no expert, and you guys may laugh at the specifics of my speculation, but there's levels of complexity in the car which IS a computer which we no longer are qualified to mess with in the old assumptions and ways!!
For example, and I'm just speculating here, say you succeed in tapping into the rainsensor 12v supply. It MAY also be used as a *sender for code* from the rainsensor to a chip somewhere! So you now are messing with messages because the V1 amperage draw is really messing stuff up! So there goe's your warrenty: poof! I'm no expert, and you guys may laugh at the specifics of my speculation, but there's levels of complexity in the car which IS a computer which we no longer are qualified to mess with in the old assumptions and ways!!
09-19-2005, 09:25 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Status Update
This will not be an easy project.
I removed the dome light assembly and started metering. I metered the 9 pin connector that runs to the rear view mirror and I definitely found the switched 12 VDC wire. It is there and it is cold when the key is not switched on, and it goes hot once you turn the key on. So this is a good thing, and a progress step that makes me feel the project is possible.
The problem is the ground wire. There is no metal screw or typical ground connection in the dome light enclosure area or anywhere up there in that area. Thus, if this is going to work, finding the common ground wire is the key. For experimental purposes, I was metering using the cigarate lighter ground with the black meter lead and metering the connector with the red meter lead. Using this method, as I said, I found the switched hot wire.
However, I found 5 pins of potential ground wires...that is... the voltage differential between the hot and 5 of the other wires in the connector was 12 VDC. There are not 5 ground wires in that connector - no way. Logic tells me the rain sensor must signal the computer over those 'ground' wires such that when they are not hot, they are ground. But which is the true ground wire?
Perhaps I need to try
1. Playing with the rain sensor to see which of those wires go hot when water is applied to the windshield to start eliminating wires?
2. just try different grounds until I find one that works?
3. Get your help ????
The dome light has 4 wires and trying to figure that out is quite difficult. All the voltages and grounds seem to switch around depending on when doors are open, the key is in the ignition, the key is turned on, and the positions of the various dome light switches. So hunting for a ground there is difficult. And, I am reluctant to pull a ground from one wire harness to another.
The key is finding the ground in the 9 wire harness. Once that is done, we are set. I think.
- Adam
I removed the dome light assembly and started metering. I metered the 9 pin connector that runs to the rear view mirror and I definitely found the switched 12 VDC wire. It is there and it is cold when the key is not switched on, and it goes hot once you turn the key on. So this is a good thing, and a progress step that makes me feel the project is possible.
The problem is the ground wire. There is no metal screw or typical ground connection in the dome light enclosure area or anywhere up there in that area. Thus, if this is going to work, finding the common ground wire is the key. For experimental purposes, I was metering using the cigarate lighter ground with the black meter lead and metering the connector with the red meter lead. Using this method, as I said, I found the switched hot wire.
However, I found 5 pins of potential ground wires...that is... the voltage differential between the hot and 5 of the other wires in the connector was 12 VDC. There are not 5 ground wires in that connector - no way. Logic tells me the rain sensor must signal the computer over those 'ground' wires such that when they are not hot, they are ground. But which is the true ground wire?
Perhaps I need to try
1. Playing with the rain sensor to see which of those wires go hot when water is applied to the windshield to start eliminating wires?
2. just try different grounds until I find one that works?
3. Get your help ????
The dome light has 4 wires and trying to figure that out is quite difficult. All the voltages and grounds seem to switch around depending on when doors are open, the key is in the ignition, the key is turned on, and the positions of the various dome light switches. So hunting for a ground there is difficult. And, I am reluctant to pull a ground from one wire harness to another.
The key is finding the ground in the 9 wire harness. Once that is done, we are set. I think.
- Adam
09-19-2005, 09:38 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by 1080iAddict
This will not be an easy project.
The key is finding the ground in the 9 wire harness. Once that is done, we are set. I think.- Adam
The key is finding the ground in the 9 wire harness. Once that is done, we are set. I think.- Adam
I just took a look, and those are some mighty small wires at the dome light connector
Lot's 'O' Luck
Note the colors and take pics
Last edited by MJones; 09-19-2005 at 10:05 PM.
09-19-2005, 11:09 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, call me a wimp. I admit it. I am aborting this project for the time being. The reason follows.
There was a post I saw either here or at Renntech that came up with a method to install the V1 by running the straight cable from the cig lighter under the glove box to the V1. This is perfect except that the cig lighter is not switched, and therefore the V1 must be manually powered. But man-o-man is this wire run undetectable.
The cable run is all but completely invisible. The cable runs under the glove box (remove the two plastic screws to loosen the foam underbelly above the leg space and under the glove box, route the wire up above that foam piece, to the interior passenger door frame, and replace the screws). Then, the cable runs up to the A pillar underneath the rubber molding inside the door jam so the cable is still invisible. The cable then runs from the door jam to the crack between the dashboard and the A pillar at the base of the dashboard to the windshield. There is a tiny gap there, and if you carefully take a straight blade screwdriver you can push the cable in there and it falls under the gap - complete hidden. Then its up the A frame and along the top windshield under the top pillar. There is a gap between the pillars and windshield for the entire run.
The V1 is mounted using suction cups at the top of the windshield to the left of the rear view mirror. The cable is basically invisible but, most importantly, it emerges at the same spot it would have emerged had I found the correct wires in the dome light area.
So, there is no visible cable. The install looks perfect. Only drawback is the lack of switched power, but Ill take the hidden wire trade-off.
I may revisit this hardwire idea again but for now this works for me. I'll post pix shortly.
There was a post I saw either here or at Renntech that came up with a method to install the V1 by running the straight cable from the cig lighter under the glove box to the V1. This is perfect except that the cig lighter is not switched, and therefore the V1 must be manually powered. But man-o-man is this wire run undetectable.
The cable run is all but completely invisible. The cable runs under the glove box (remove the two plastic screws to loosen the foam underbelly above the leg space and under the glove box, route the wire up above that foam piece, to the interior passenger door frame, and replace the screws). Then, the cable runs up to the A pillar underneath the rubber molding inside the door jam so the cable is still invisible. The cable then runs from the door jam to the crack between the dashboard and the A pillar at the base of the dashboard to the windshield. There is a tiny gap there, and if you carefully take a straight blade screwdriver you can push the cable in there and it falls under the gap - complete hidden. Then its up the A frame and along the top windshield under the top pillar. There is a gap between the pillars and windshield for the entire run.
The V1 is mounted using suction cups at the top of the windshield to the left of the rear view mirror. The cable is basically invisible but, most importantly, it emerges at the same spot it would have emerged had I found the correct wires in the dome light area.
So, there is no visible cable. The install looks perfect. Only drawback is the lack of switched power, but Ill take the hidden wire trade-off.
I may revisit this hardwire idea again but for now this works for me. I'll post pix shortly.
09-20-2005, 01:14 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
BREAKTHROUGH!!!!!!!!!!
BREAKING NEWS
BALTIMORE (AP) 1080iAddict found switched power AND ground in the dome light assembly. Details to follow....
BALTIMORE (AP) 1080iAddict found switched power AND ground in the dome light assembly. Details to follow....
Last edited by 1080iAddict; 09-20-2005 at 01:42 AM.
09-20-2005, 01:23 AM
#15
Miserable Old Bastard
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have been contemplating how to hard install my V1 for about 6 months now, and I'm close to doing it, but still haven't.
As I recall, somebody, I think on rennlist but maybe renntech, installed the power module inside the overhead light. I don't remember if they identified the wires. I have considered that, but my latest thinking is as follows:
Hardwire the power module near the fuse box by piggybacking a powered fuse (I think you can buy gizmos that piggyback a fuse) or by using an unoccupied fuse position. Run the wire up and tuck it behind the driver-side A pillar and then over by the rear view mirror. I also think I would like the option of using the remote display, and I think I am going to run a second wire to hang out near the VIN by the driver side front window, put a small piece of self-stick velcro on the plastic piece just behind the window (I don't want to put it on the leather), put velcro on the display, and use it on longer drives.
Just my thoughts. Hopefully I'll get on with this project and be able to share some actual experience.
As I recall, somebody, I think on rennlist but maybe renntech, installed the power module inside the overhead light. I don't remember if they identified the wires. I have considered that, but my latest thinking is as follows:
Hardwire the power module near the fuse box by piggybacking a powered fuse (I think you can buy gizmos that piggyback a fuse) or by using an unoccupied fuse position. Run the wire up and tuck it behind the driver-side A pillar and then over by the rear view mirror. I also think I would like the option of using the remote display, and I think I am going to run a second wire to hang out near the VIN by the driver side front window, put a small piece of self-stick velcro on the plastic piece just behind the window (I don't want to put it on the leather), put velcro on the display, and use it on longer drives.
Just my thoughts. Hopefully I'll get on with this project and be able to share some actual experience.