Break in question
#1
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My 997S will be arriving within a week and I cannot wait!!! I have a trip planned to Yosemite and wondered if the high altitude could be a bad idea for the new car during the break in period? I assume not, but wanted to get the board's feedback...
Thanks
Thanks
#3
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Synergy,
You really know how to hurt me...My car will be here soon as well but, unlike you, I am left to chose from an endless menu of straight, flat, characterless roads populated by a profusion of South Florida maggots; i.e., octagenerians in buicks who have absolutely no idea where they are or where they are going, red necks in pick em up trucks with lifts, and my personal favorites, the ubiquitous glitz monsters who simply never drive without a cell phone in one hand, are convinced that they own the road and traffic laws are for other, less important, people..."get out of my way, I'm late for the spa"
...I could go on and on...God, what am I doing here?!?!![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Enjoy your new car and your glorious roads
DAB.
You really know how to hurt me...My car will be here soon as well but, unlike you, I am left to chose from an endless menu of straight, flat, characterless roads populated by a profusion of South Florida maggots; i.e., octagenerians in buicks who have absolutely no idea where they are or where they are going, red necks in pick em up trucks with lifts, and my personal favorites, the ubiquitous glitz monsters who simply never drive without a cell phone in one hand, are convinced that they own the road and traffic laws are for other, less important, people..."get out of my way, I'm late for the spa"
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Enjoy your new car and your glorious roads
DAB.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Work that motor! Just don't leave it hanging in the high revs. But the occasional zing isn't a bad idea...it's best to get those pistons seated quickly.
Longer drives are preferred.
Longer drives are preferred.
#7
Race Car
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Contrary to what Porsche suggest, below is the proper way to brake in a new engine.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
The above procedure will also benefit engines that were not broken in proerly. As with all engines, it is necessary to periodically drive the car to redline to insure properly maintaining ring to cylinder wall fit.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
The above procedure will also benefit engines that were not broken in proerly. As with all engines, it is necessary to periodically drive the car to redline to insure properly maintaining ring to cylinder wall fit.
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#8
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Contrary to what Porsche suggest, below is the proper way to brake in a new engine.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
The above procedure will also benefit engines that were not broken in proerly. As with all engines, it is necessary to periodically drive the car to redline to insure properly maintaining ring to cylinder wall fit.
Proper breakin must be done in the first 100 -200 miles and below is the proper procedure:
1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.
The above procedure will also benefit engines that were not broken in proerly. As with all engines, it is necessary to periodically drive the car to redline to insure properly maintaining ring to cylinder wall fit.
#9
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Originally Posted by AeroSmith
I concur. I did this with my '03 996 and she never burns a drop of oil. Babying the engine is probably the worst thing you can do for it.
Oh and I can't sleep anymore as I wait to get the new car!!!
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#10
Burning Brakes
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With all due respect to Aerosmith and 1999Porsche911 whom I do not know and have no reason to doubt their intelligence, I don't think I will personally follow that advice.
If the engineers at Porsche who make the finest sports car in the world tell me not to take it over 4000 RPM for 2,000 miles, it aint gonna happen. Maybe a few times wont hurt just to let her feel it (interpreted for woman or machine), but generally I am following the manual.
The problem here is that Aerosmith and 1999Porsche911 may very well know much more than me about sports cars than Ill ever know. In fact, I am assuming this to be the case for my argument. However, there is no empirical evidence they are correct. Nor is there admittedly empirical evidence that Porsche is correct in their approach. There is no study I know of that would back up either argument. So, with both arguments given the same exact weight, I would need to side ever so slightly with the 6 decades of experience from germany.
Please understand that I do not in anyway wish to diminish the advice posted in this thread. But I would be very nervous to knowingly break the official rules with a new $100,000 sports car because a few people did not have any problems down the road.
I think it is risky, but to each their own I guess.
If the engineers at Porsche who make the finest sports car in the world tell me not to take it over 4000 RPM for 2,000 miles, it aint gonna happen. Maybe a few times wont hurt just to let her feel it (interpreted for woman or machine), but generally I am following the manual.
The problem here is that Aerosmith and 1999Porsche911 may very well know much more than me about sports cars than Ill ever know. In fact, I am assuming this to be the case for my argument. However, there is no empirical evidence they are correct. Nor is there admittedly empirical evidence that Porsche is correct in their approach. There is no study I know of that would back up either argument. So, with both arguments given the same exact weight, I would need to side ever so slightly with the 6 decades of experience from germany.
Please understand that I do not in anyway wish to diminish the advice posted in this thread. But I would be very nervous to knowingly break the official rules with a new $100,000 sports car because a few people did not have any problems down the road.
I think it is risky, but to each their own I guess.
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#11
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The following are some websites I found that address break-in procedures:
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1250
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/869/index22.html
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I would look at the mototune one. You definately need to seat the rings. Porsche does not want to deal with the "infant mortals" by driving the car hard at first...of course they would rather get through the warranty period with no events.
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1250
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/869/index22.html
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I would look at the mototune one. You definately need to seat the rings. Porsche does not want to deal with the "infant mortals" by driving the car hard at first...of course they would rather get through the warranty period with no events.
#12
Miserable Old Bastard
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IF you choose to follow the alternative method as opposed to the recommended method, remember the car's computer will keep a record of each time you hit the rev limiter (I'm told), so I would make sure you stop a little short of redline to avoid future warranty issues.
#13
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by jcnesq
IF you choose to follow the alternative method as opposed to the recommended method, remember the car's computer will keep a record of each time you hit the rev limiter (I'm told), so I would make sure you stop a little short of redline to avoid future warranty issues.
The fuel cutoff is the real worry-point.
Another point: gotta love the sport button hard cut-off. That really makes the point: shift you idiot!
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#14
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My advise.
Listen to every word the members on this board say about breaking in your new car, most are very smart about these things.......then go to your owners manual to the section which deals with break in procedures and do exactly what Porsche tells you to do.
Listen to every word the members on this board say about breaking in your new car, most are very smart about these things.......then go to your owners manual to the section which deals with break in procedures and do exactly what Porsche tells you to do.
#15
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Originally Posted by jcnesq
IF you choose to follow the alternative method as opposed to the recommended method, remember the car's computer will keep a record of each time you hit the rev limiter (I'm told), so I would make sure you stop a little short of redline to avoid future warranty issues.
The first is where you don't shift soon enough and hit the red-line. In fact, thanks to the rev limiter, you have not over-reved the car. This doesn't bother the car, Porsche doesn't care and it has no impact on your warranty.
The second is where you miss a down shift, ie. you meant to go from 5th to 4th but accidentally went from 5th to 2nd causing the engine to over-rev. The rev limiter can't save you here. This is most definately bad for the car, Porsche does care and it could impact your warranty.
The computer keeps track of both types of event but Porsche only considers the second type of event to be bad.
Finally, there is no need to hit redline for the above break in procedure to work. Going to 5,000 rpms is fine. The real key, from the standpooint of seating the piston rings, is the full throttle acceleration and the deceleration while in gear.