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On the non-GT3 cars, the door jamb sticker is misleading: It only shows the Max Load pressures. You need to read page 289 of the owners manual (997.2 version attached), to see the correct "partial load" pressures (F34, R40) that apply to all other conditions.
To zero-out the warnings and dash lights, manually set your tires pressure to the partial load levels (or slightly lower even) and then tell the TPMS system to "relearn." The TPMS system will still be active, but it will only warn you if your tire pressures fall 3-4psi below these new, lower (more correct) settings.
You're welcome.
thank you!! I’ll give this a go. Sounds right on the money
OP, your GT3/GTS experience/description matches that of @Busta Rib.
Jim had a .2 GT3 and described it as not really coming into its own unless pushed hard and wrung out.
The Mezger's higher redline is a symphony, but I believe the 997 GTS torque curve is very different from the .1 GT3.
The X51 kit peak torque arrives earlier than the Carrera S 3.8 and the rev limiter kicks in at 7500 rpm despite what the tachometer marking indicates.
I really appreciate the mid-range torque of the GTS but it feels to me like the X51 engine pulls hard from 6500-7300 (peak hp) where my base Carrera ran a bit out of breath above 6500. The GT3 is a different animal despite sharing the same chassis layout. Your R&P setup probably drops the final drive ratio and allows you to access upper ranges in 2nd gear more often- 3rd is "arrest me" territory speed above 6000! Curious what that extra 900 rpm above the GTS' 7500 redline feels like, we all know it sounds awesome.
I was trying to find a dyno of each to compare. I have my gt3 dyno which was 387whp peak. Want to find some gts to see in comparison. Tbh the gt3 feels torquier but could just be the much more responsive throttle and gearing.
Peter, I'll assume neither vehicle throws an ! or text warning in the TPMS menu page at those values? TIA for any insight.
I like the handling at less than those cold pressures, since by the time I am carving up canyons, my warm pressures are in those ranges anyways.
To the OP: I totally agree with your analysis. If I run the minimum cold pressures to avoid the getting the warnings, the warm/hot pressures are well in excess of 40 in the rear. If one starts out cold at the placard 37/44, the rears can get up to 50 psi on a 90+ degree day with multi miles of linked switchbacks.
I bought a portable compressor to use for those sessions. Plan was to bleed down the pressures to mid 30's, high 30's warm, then replenish when they cooled off post session and inflate to minimum required to cancel the warnings. Good idea, I thought, but the pump was 15A and the highest rated outlet in a 7.2 is only 10A. Blew a fuse immediately when hooked up.
I am quite frankly amazed that my own problem solved itself on my last drive. In the past I was reluctant to leave a gas station with air service with the warnings on. Ignoring those for 10 minutes seemed to fix the problem- which never returned over 3 days and 3-400 miles of canyons.
Both my cars are 2005s - no TPMS so no annoying errors, no dead batteries in them, no calibration issues and I can run whatever pressures I want to
On the non-GT3 cars, the door jamb sticker is misleading: It only shows the Max Load pressures. You need to read page 289 of the owners manual (997.2 version attached), to see the correct "partial load" pressures (F34, R40) that apply to all other conditions.
To zero-out the warnings and dash lights, manually set your tires pressure to the partial load levels (or slightly lower even) and then tell the TPMS system to "relearn." The TPMS system will still be active, but it will only warn you if your tire pressures fall 3-4psi below these new, lower (more correct) settings.
You're welcome.
So with an S on 19" wheels these are spot on for the pressures I'm running (well my front is different by 1 psi - 35 instead of 34).
On the non-GT3 cars, the door jamb sticker is misleading: It only shows the Max Load pressures. You need to read page 289 of the owners manual (997.2 version attached), to see the correct "partial load" pressures (F34, R40) that apply to all other conditions.
To zero-out the warnings and dash lights, manually set your tires pressure to the partial load levels (or slightly lower even) and then tell the TPMS system to "relearn." The TPMS system will still be active, but it will only warn you if your tire pressures fall 3-4psi below these new, lower (more correct) settings.
You're welcome.
Thanks!
We have read the owners manual.
Those partial pressures are still too high for modern tires and a cold pressure to attain those throws a warning.
I may have done exactly what you describe while f-ing around with the Tire menu. I was cycling through the options multiple times and recall the Warning and error messages disappear after a canyon blast.
Must have been in the learn mode and reset.
Hallelujah!
Last edited by Liste-Renn; 06-01-2024 at 04:31 PM.
I was trying to find a dyno of each to compare. I have my gt3 dyno which was 387whp peak. Want to find some gts to see in comparison.
Here is a 997.2 S dyno that Sharkwerks posted on their X-pipe description- should be somewhat similar to the GTS. Literature claims GTS peak torque arrives 200 rpm earlier than the S and peak hp is maintained to 7400 redline vice S drop off prior to its lower redline of 7200. The X51 polished ports likely allow for better breathing at those revs.
Last edited by Liste-Renn; 06-01-2024 at 04:24 PM.
Both my cars are 2005s - no TPMS so no annoying errors, no dead batteries in them, no calibration issues and I can run whatever pressures I want to
Pardon our bitchin', but a niggling problem is, once again, solved on RL.
It's why I am here- information exchange.
It appears we .2 owners can now run "whatever pressures (we) want to" without an error message.
We also can monitor tire pressure (just like what you .1 owners share with oil quantity measurement, though only while stopped on level ground) from the cabin without pulling over or into the pits to check them manually. I don't enjoy dropping to a knee on the side of the road or in a gas station. Especially when busy having motoring fun. I value being able to monitor, real-time, what my tires are doing when I push them hard on desert-like temp canyon sessions or on prolonged triple digit high-speed interstate runs. Some more modern super/hyper cars have pyrometers as well.
As always, YMMV, and likely does!
There's a reason the system debuted on the 997.2 GT2RS. It's not a gimmick.
My TPMS are original (2011) and read within a psi of my most accurate hand held digital gauge.
The same system on my wife's 2018 Macan GTS works flawlessly.
Pardon our bitchin', but a niggling problem is, once again, solved on RL.
It's why I am here- information exchange.
It appears we .2 owners can now run "whatever pressures (we) want to" without an error message.
We also can monitor tire pressure (just like what you .1 owners share with oil quantity measurement, though only while stopped on level ground) from the cabin without pulling over or into the pits to check them manually. I don't enjoy dropping to a knee on the side of the road or in a gas station. Especially when busy having motoring fun. I value being able to monitor, real-time, what my tires are doing when I push them hard on desert-like temp canyon sessions or on prolonged triple digit high-speed interstate runs. Some more modern super/hyper cars have pyrometers as well.
As always, YMMV, and likely does!
There's a reason the system debuted on the 997.2 GT2RS. It's not a gimmick.
My TPMS are original (2011) and read within a psi of my most accurate hand held digital gauge.
The same system on my wife's 2018 Macan GTS works flawlessly.
...until the batteries die in them.
The Audi system is better. You set the pressures you want them tell the car they're correct and it calculates the tire revolution rate and stores it. If it later sees more revolutions resultinng from a pressure.drop, it.notifies.yiu that you have a low tire. No sensors to buy & no batteries to worry about.
Sounds like the elegant solution.
My TPMS batteries on 997 GTS are original 2011, the 2018 Macan GTS 7 years in September.
Lucky, I guess.
But it's really not an issue. I can live with a bad battery until my next tire change, the warning can be coded out.
Last edited by Liste-Renn; 06-01-2024 at 10:59 PM.
I was trying to find a dyno of each to compare. I have my gt3 dyno which was 387whp peak. Want to find some gts to see in comparison. Tbh the gt3 feels torquier but could just be the much more responsive throttle and gearing.
05-28-2024, 09:22 PM
