Jabamusic

All,
I had to use the above to access the front trunk and now trying to figure out how to proceed with reinstating the cable. The nipple on the end of the wire is now wrapped around the outer sleeve of the main release cable and I can’t figure out where it should reconnect to for future functionality?
see photos….
i hate this system and believe i was lucky to get away with it when I screwed up closing the front boot with the battery disconnected. I am researching how to run a better failsafe for my future stupidity!!
But in the meantime I need to put this back as was.
Any Ideas, thoughts
BW
Jaba

Wayne Smith

That's the way it was designed. When you pull on the cable it initially slides to the thicker part of the solenoid driven cable. Then it pulls that cable sideways in an attempt to pull on the latch. What you show in your picture is correct.

If you search this Forum you'll find a write up I did some years ago about adding another cable that then resides behind the right front fender side light. I would add to that the use of a sheathed bicycle brake cable so that it pulls easily without snagging on anything.

Better yet, Google 997 frunk release cable videos. Over the last year or two some people have made some videos that explain the method much better than what I wrote.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 196K miles

Yea, genius isn't it?

I did Wayne's system... tested... works... done. The dang latch actually has a lobe to do it the correct way (per Wayne) but the junior member of the latest graduation year ignored it and did... well... that. I guess Porsche should stop advertising free beer at lunch to graduating seniors.

https://www.afr.com/companies/manufa...0150417-1mn9pr

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Jabamusic

Thanks Wayne
I will search for your previous write-up.
My car is a 997.2, with DRL’s , so I will try to route a new shielded cable to the side markers/ indicators which I understand are more easily removed (if/ when required).
Best
Jaba

Wayne Smith

Try visiting Rennlist from this link ...

https://images.app.goo.gl/v1ZdfCK2WZq88cNc7

Bodydoc

I did the "Wayne Procedure" with Wayne and it is easy to create and a most needed backup. Thank you Wayne.

Petza914

I don't think a battery actually needs to be connected in the battery compartment for the pull out in the fuse box to pop it from the key. I think that pull out has a direct connection to the release switch and you're powering and grounding it directly with the battery cables.

Jabamusic

Ok folks some clarification for me to be sure…..

As you know, there is one wire from the solenoid which pulls the “top” release ( hidden under the metal cap piece). This releases the main latch which enables one to then use the red lever (secondary catch) to fully release the hood.

Now, from what I can see on the videos and gleaning from written write-ups, the solution of putting an extra pull wire (brilliant by the way) and leading it out to the side marker, requires the attached end of the wire to be connected to the bracket -BUT to WHERE?
If I connect it to the opposing side of the red (secondary) lever -there is a very suitable hole there already- how will that activate the main “top” solenoid activated release???
Maybe it just does…… or maybe I am missing something.
Apologies for being 🤔🤷‍♂️
Jaba

Wayne Smith

With the frunk closed, look at the alignment of the frunk relative to the front bumper. The frunk should be just a bit lower. This will matter when you reassemble the latch.

Pull back the frunk carpet behind the latch.

Use a Sharpie to mark the location of the washers.

Use a 10 mm wrench to remove the two bolts.

Carefully lift the latch up so that you can look at the back.

Look at where the original cable attaches. Pull the cable and see how the plate that cable attaches to rotates. You'll see there is a bottom part of that plate that includes a place to attach another cable that will rotate the plate when pulled in the other direction (compared to the original cable). Attach the new cable here.

Reverse the procedure to reassemble, using the Sharpie marks to adjust the latch location.

Jabamusic

Thanks Wayne
It did not make sense to me earlier and I couldn’t see that attachment which is probably only visible once the whole bracket is removed
Much appreciated
Jaba

997.2GTS

Correct, it does not, as verified by myself during a battery swap and a dumb moment.

Wayne Smith

That's the idea of the pull out tab ... isolation of everything except the front computer that is needed to operate the latch. That's also the reason only the remote works.

Antigravity

A back up mechanical method is great for sure.

Another method that allows for easy Frunk opening or Jump Starting of the vehicle within seconds is a Wire Harness we offer for Mini Jump Starters that energizes the Porsches via the Battery Clamps directly at the Battery Terminals. You connect this Harness to your Battery Clamps and route it to the leading edge of the windshield, and if you ever need to pop the frunk or Jump start the car you just plug in our Mini Jump Starter or some other brands with the same fitting and you can pop the frunk or start the car in seconds. The problem with the Red Buss in the fuse panel is it sometimes doesn't get energized enough and does not pop the frunk easily. This could be from the small gauge wire or not a good connection or ground, but our method allows you to use this Wire Harness connected directly to your Battery Clamps at the Cars battery so you are energizing your Cars system solidly with a mini jump starter so the frunk pops immediately, it also allows you to jump start the Car easily if you don't want to just get into the frunk area, it also allows you to get the key out and open the door on the 991s and later... not sure if the 997 lock the key in place...

Link and Video to it can be found at this link
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...arness-msa10c/

yelcab

I ran a battery charging dongle from the engine to the bottom of the engine. I use it to charge the battery when long term parking. When the battery is dead recently, I just hooked up my trickle charger, push the button on the key, and the trunk opens.

sandwedge

Stupid and overly complicated design imo. I've had cars that cost a fraction of a 997 that had a simple mechanical pull inside the car that opened the compartment where the battery was located. No battery power needed. Related horror story on my car some years ago. The local dealership did work on my car that required some kind of reprogramming of the electronics including the ignition key. The car then went to a body shop for some work and when finished was then left in the shop's parking lot for me to pick up after hours. They asked if I had a second key which I had so they locked the doors, threw the key in the frunk with the doors locked.

I got there to pick up my car but my spare key wouldn't open either the doors or the frunk due to the electronics update which didn't include my spare key which was at my house Of course, nobody told me that my spare key would be worthless after the electronics update so I stood there at night dead in the water. With the centerlock wheels, the dealership had to send two people equipped with a jack and all else required to remove and re-install the left front center lock wheel to get access to the frunk and retrieve the reprogrammed ignition key. Next day I had to go to the dealership to get the reprogrammed key to get into my car and to have my spare key reprogrammed.

I still don't understand that nobody thought of the fact that they locked the only functional ignition key in the frunk but instead asking me if I had a second key. Seems like someone should have recognized that my second key was now out of commission. But no.