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Here's my 997's underside. Help me prioritise what to fix

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Old 01-26-2024 | 12:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by smrpr
Yes, I just purchased it and I'm in the middle of a refresh, my mechanic just sent me that picture yesterday and it kind of matched what I expected from a car that had been living in Germany for some years and driven on salty winter roads. So a new exhaust is definitely in the list because apparently there's a leak on that one, and I just wanted to assess if there were any clear issues that I hadn't spotted from that picture. Dropping the transmission next week for a new clutch so I'll change the RMS and remove the cover from the IMS bearing as the one this car has is the dual row one and I'm just gonna risk it and run the OEM one.
I'm curious what the condition of heat shields look like? Also make sure you have the flywheel checked and best to replace it when doing clutch,
Congrats on the purchase!!

Also regarding the IMS Bearing, the engine# will determine which style it is. Engine# is stamped on drivers side lower area of engine case visible by kneeling down and looking behind drivers side rear wheel.
Early 2005 models have the smaller more prone IMS Bearing that is removable should be replaced. Later style IMS more robust.
Here's the engine# designation for both the 3.6L Base anfine and 3.8L "S" engine:
:
Engine#'s for IMS Bearing size:The smaller IMS Bearing in the 3.8L motors are in motors up to M97/01 68509790 ---> Engine#'s from M97/01 68509791 forward have the larger revised more robust IMS Bearing.
For 3.6L motors, if the engine# s M96/05 69507476 and higher it has the larger more robust IMS bearing.





Last edited by groovzilla; 01-26-2024 at 12:14 PM.
Old 01-26-2024 | 12:30 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Petza914
That car doesn't have a dual row IMS bearing - those were only used in early 996s. If it's an early 997 it has a small single row bearing and should absolutely be replaced. If a latwr 997 has large single row bearing and can't be replaced but also doesn't fail - remove the outer grease seal when you do the clutch and RMS.

If the water pump is getting close to 50k miles, change that and the sweep belt and check all the pulleys.

That underside actually looks fine other than the salt exposure. It's also either an X51 power kit car or someone has already changed the headers.
Originally Posted by groovzilla
I'm curious what the condition of heat shields look like? Also make sure you have the flywheel checked and best to replace it when doing clutch,
Congrats on the purchase!!

Also regarding the IMS Bearing, the engine# will determine which style it is. Engine# is stamped on drivers side lower area of engine case visible by kneeling down and looking behind drivers side rear wheel.
Early 2005 models have the smaller more prone IMS Bearing that is removable should be replaced. Later style IMS more robust.
Here's the engine# designation for both the 3.6L Base anfine and 3.8L "S" engine:
:
Engine#'s for IMS Bearing size:The smaller IMS Bearing in the 3.8L motors are in motors up to M97/01 68509790 ---> Engine#'s from M97/01 68509791 forward have the larger revised more robust IMS Bearing.
For 3.6L motors, if the engine# s M96/05 69507476 and higher it has the larger more robust IMS bearing.
Yes, I checked that last week and my engine number is M96/0569509632 so I should have the larger one. I said dual row because I assumed it was that design but I've been educated, single row but larger bearing

Regarding removing the dust cover, I just want to make sure. Since the bearing I have is the non serviceable one, the only dust cover I can remove is the exterior one, the one that's facing the transmission. Is that correct? I would assume that for proper lubrication the inside one should be the one being removed.

Old 01-26-2024 | 02:27 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by smrpr
Yes, I checked that last week and my engine number is M96/0569509632 so I should have the larger one. I said dual row because I assumed it was that design but I've been educated, single row but larger bearing
Regarding removing the dust cover, I just want to make sure. Since the bearing I have is the non serviceable one, the only dust cover I can remove is the exterior one, the one that's facing the transmission. Is that correct? I would assume that for proper lubrication the inside one should be the one being removed.
My 50 year Porsche Specialist Indy as well as other posts/threads on RL recommend removing the IMS Grease Seal (I believe that is the name of it but confirm yourself) on the larger Bearing to allow better lubrcation - Be sure to get this done.

I am not a wrench so not sure about the outter dust cover you are referring to above but I am assuming it is removed to access the Grease Seal.




Last edited by groovzilla; 01-26-2024 at 02:28 PM.
Old 01-26-2024 | 02:36 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by smrpr
Yes, I checked that last week and my engine number is M96/0569509632 so I should have the larger one. I said dual row because I assumed it was that design but I've been educated, single row but larger bearing

Regarding removing the dust cover, I just want to make sure. Since the bearing I have is the non serviceable one, the only dust cover I can remove is the exterior one, the one that's facing the transmission. Is that correct? I would assume that for proper lubrication the inside one should be the one being removed.
It's not a dust cover that's on the bearing, it's a grease seal. The one you'll be removing is the outer one that like you say faces the transmission as that's the one that's accessible. That bearing sits in oil about 25%-30% of the way up, which both creates the issue with it and also allows for the resolution of it. The issue it creates is that the oil it sits in gets past the seal over time, then thins the grease and causes it to run out of the bearing through the seal. Once that happens you have a very small amount of oil trapped inside the bearing and it can't get out to get renewed so the oil breaks down, doesn't lubricate the ball bearings well and then the bearing can fail. Removing the outer grease seal allows a constant exchange of fresh oil in and out of the bearing. So, it doesn't matter which seal you remove as it would achieve the same result, buy you can only remove the outer one easily.
Old 01-26-2024 | 05:55 PM
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How often should the smaller IMS be replaced?
Old 01-26-2024 | 06:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by carguy999
How often should the smaller IMS be replaced?
Replace it ASAP with the IMS Solution and you'll never have to do it again.
Old 01-27-2024 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Petza914
Replace it ASAP with the IMS Solution and you'll never have to do it again.
Yeah I know, but it was replaced right before I bought the car, and I've still got the original clutch which people keep telling me looks fine and doesn't need replacement. I'd rather wait to do that when I replace the clutch so I'm trying to gauge how bad of an idea that is.
Old 01-27-2024 | 01:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by carguy999
Yeah I know, but it was replaced right before I bought the car, and I've still got the original clutch which people keep telling me looks fine and doesn't need replacement. I'd rather wait to do that when I replace the clutch so I'm trying to gauge how bad of an idea that is.
What was it replaced with?
Old 01-30-2024 | 02:30 AM
  #24  
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Hope you can help me solve this.

I’ve been looking at exhausts these days as I want to replace the whole thing which is quite rusty. I was almost committed to spending a fortune when I found a local for sale ad of this:


It states the model is “M&M97GT3032”. I always thought the GT3 had the Mezger engine but according to the code of this exhaust it seems to be compatible with an M97?

Upon further research, it looks like this is the exhaust as sold by FVD:

https://www.fvd.net/us-en/BES9971526...r-exit-ti.html

(source: https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1209941)


Mine is an M96. I know the tail pipes need to go with a GT3 bumper and won’t match what the Carrera side exhaust holes, but apart from that, would the rest bolt on with no issues? The offer is too good to pass, less than $1k for the full system (although it seems something has been done to the cats as they don’t look original?):


Old 01-30-2024 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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Scratch that. The bolt pattern on the headers doesn't match, and I guess the rest needs modifications too. Too bad.
Old 01-30-2024 | 06:39 PM
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@Petza914 No idea... prior to my ownership



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