Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 194K miles

I don't understand why anyone would buy a car that is damaged like this... Unless of course, you factored in a rebuild in both dollars and lost driving time. For me, it would not be worth the ambiguity of when a failure would occur nor the overall hassle. Hoping this will not blow is, well, not clear thinking IMO.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Aubergine 73

Deleted

steveP911

I like all of the advice that Graufuchs gives. If I can add to that (I am in the middle of a proactive rebuild of my 2005 3.8 so I feel your pain), I would encourage you to not drive the car "gently". Don't let it idle any more than you are forced to. Keeping the rpm below 3K while driving, warm the oil to 175. Then, drive it like a Porsche. Shift at 4500 (or more) and push it to 6K (or 7K) as often as conditions permit (safely, so in lower gears of course). I strongly believe these cars should not be babied. I would also recommend that you change the oil frequently and get a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) every change. I use SpeeDiagnostix; others also use Blackstone. You can find copious threads which cite the major telltales of bore scoring. Be on the lookout for them, and be super diligent about oil changes and UOA's.

Good luck.

TerrestrialFlyte

Sorry to see this. I would pass if it were me. Yeah, maybe you could get another 10-15K miles out of it, may it gives up the goods in 3500 miles. I’m certainly no expert, but given the cost of a rebuild, it would have to be a hell of a deal to buy the car knowing full well that it has that going on. Especially if there is any chance that this car will be sold down the road. If you’re never parting with it, you got a great deal, you’re ok with a $25K rebuild, and you absolutely love it…then maybe proceed. But, as with everything in life, your money, your life, your choice. Take a look at SteveP911’s rebuild thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...3&goto=newpost) and maybe do a little digging regard the cost of rebuilds.

You could also open a ticket with LN Engineering and send them the videos to review. They could give you their perspective having seen a ton of them.

Aubergine 73

Deleted

docdrs

I don’t quite understand what you want to hear here. Is this a friends car that you are trying to justify buying? How many miles are on the engine? How do you know it doesn’t burn oil? Because the dealer told you ? If you have done your homework you know this has signs of borescoring PERIOD. If mech inclined 15,000 rebuild in future at sometime which no one can tell you when that will be. If not mech inclined then count on 25,000. All comes down to $$$ you are prepared to spend and how munch you like / want the car. .02

Aubergine 73

It’s a car that shows incredibly well that is exactly what I want. They’re offering a 3 year warranty for $3,600. I don’t mind paying that for a lot of peace of mind.

silver_tt

+1

TerrestrialFlyte

I would dig into what that warranty covers and how it proposes to “fix” bore scoring. Will it say that the scoring is just streaking and it’s normal wear and tear? Will they replace the block with a Porsche block? New (becoming hard to find I thought I heard)? Used? Either way you face the same issue, an engine with the same coating that will likely do the same thing down the line. Will the warranty pay for having it resleeved by LN or Slakker? I’m really skeptical of aftermarket warranties and what they will and will not honor. I don’t know you nor do you know me, but it sounds like you are really sold on this car and potentially looking for confirmation. I still say walk. There are too many other examples out there to saddle yourself with the burden of this one. But as I said before…your choice.

texass4

Yup. Sounds likely that you’d have a helluva fight on your hands if you needed to make a claim. I know you said it’s exactly what you wanted but be patient man. Don’t let emotions get in the way of a rational purchase decision. There are a lot of 997s out there.

misterdega

My understanding is that this is essentially like our car's version of cancer. It is not an if at all but a when and that is the gamble. It could start slow and then within a few months be trashed and start having all the symptoms it doesn't have now or it could be a few years--nevertheless it will happen. I think the consensus I've felt in the 997 forum is that any car with known scoring is a walk away unless you've pocketed the additional 25-40k for the rebuild and know that going in. The warranty likely will not cover this fix because as with all warranties... they will try everything in their power to weasel their way out of covering such an expensive fix -- this isn't a water pump failure after all and since it is a pre existing condition maybe that is their fine print out. They will likely not end up covering it and it will take a very long and hard fight to get to that inevitable answer.

But @groovzilla what say you?

Aubergine 73

Deleted

Bruce In Philly

The issue is not when you will have a problem... you already have a problem. You noted it is exactly what you wanted... did you want a broken car? This one is. Good luck... Jake Raby at Flat 6 has some videos that give advice on scoring that may help you... below is a PCA video directly address preventing or living with scoring.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

TerrestrialFlyte

Well, I reserve the right to say “I told you so”. Kidding, I wouldn’t do that. Hope it works out for you. Most definitely follow the preventative measures mentioned above to try and get the most life out of it. And start squirreling away for that rainy day.

groovzilla

Yes - That looks like bad/deep vertical scoring on cyl #6 seen during that video
I tried to do a screen shot but not able because it's a video.

Personally I would pass.