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Well, this is the first time in the car's life I am getting something really dysfunctional. Random stalling. The car is up to temp... I shut the car down... run into a store... start it up, drive out to the red light, and the car just stops... no drama or shaking, just stops running. This happened about four times in one week now. It has been fine now for about four weeks. To address this, I am now about 1/2 the way through a tank of gas with Techron (more than recommended amount), and the problem seemed to stop. I am not attributing this to the Techron, but it could be. I use only Shell, Chevron, or BP gas from popular stations.
Any ideas?
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-09-2023 at 12:38 PM.
Fwiw - when my ignition switch was failing, symptom was similar. I'd cold-start car, drive 15min, shut it down. And on warm-restart, car would start, I'd drive 40ft and engine would die. Had to cycle ignition switch to off before attempting to re-start. It would not start when going from on to start.
I must confess, I did not check codes despite me having a Durametric.... will do it next time if there is one. I doubt it is the high pressure fuel pump as this is a relatively new one in mine. When the prior one went, I got the "Running Reduced Power" or whatever message and it popped the light. I know the system measures fuel pressures and if it was reduced fuel pressure that killed the engine, I suspect I would have gotten a dash light.
evo 9: I thought it was the ignition switch for some reason. I had to remove the key to get it to respond. If it is, I have put in two already. I guess that is not so unbelievable, if the switch is a weak point and I have that many miles, I guess it is a common wear item for me.
So what convinced you it was the switch?
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-09-2023 at 03:14 PM.
Mine would do this every couple of years. I could have sworn it was some sort of electromagnetic interference as it does it around the same store/area.
I suppose it could be a set of conditions that get replicated and it’s the switch. Guess it’s time to buy a new switch and just keep it in the parts bin.
if it is the switch, what does the car think? That there’s no switch in the car and it has to turn off?
Hi Bruce. As you continue troubleshooting I recommend considering your gas cap seal. The only times this happened in either of my 997s (.1 and .2) was resolved with a new gas cap. Keep us posted.
Crankshaft position sensor failures can cause a sudden engine shutdown with no codes. Does it happen when the engine is warm? I've seen one that worked fine hen cold but failed when warm.
This stalling is only when up to temp, within 3 or 4 minutes after I re-started the engine.
Regarding the gas cap... I thought that throws a code no? A new ignition switch is over $350 !!!! Wow, what price inflation.
Sill listening for more advice. My plan is to check codes as soon as this happens again, if it does. Else, I may throw a few parts at this and hope I hit it. Totally guessing, I think this is electrical (a sensor?) because of the total no-drama shutdown. The car just stops, with no shakes or anything... the first time it happened, I didn't even know the engine shut down until I pressed the gas on the green light.
BTW, an OEM "Hall Sensor" (aka camshaft position sensor) is only $26 for one, need two... easy replacement... next to a spark plug hole... maybe I will just throw $50 bucks at this.... Hmmm.....
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-10-2023 at 01:05 PM.
I too am suspicious of the CPS. By way of example, on my G500, the common CPS failure (it sets at the top of the engine at the rear and overtime heat degrades it) is it can no longer sends a signal to the ECU during the start, so the engine cranks but no spark or fuel. The temporary fix was to let it cool, or pour some water on it and then get it started. Once started, the ECU did not look for a signal so the engine would keep running. I think the M113 engine is not a zero clearance engine.
Per AllData, if a CPS fault is detected, the error/fault processing/management system is alerted and processes it. I found no further details about what happens in processing, but I suspect engine shutdown with no warnings is an option. My guess is we have zero clearance engines so ANY mis-timing between the crankshaft and the camshafts can be catastrophic. It is not clear in AllData were the CPS is mounted but if its near the top of the engine, then a heat related failure mode is possible.
Checked for codes, nothing. I cleaned the MAF and the throttle body... not sure when I cleaned these two before, but there was pretty much nothing on either. I am stumped.
To clean the MAF, you must pull the cap to the airbox to expose one of two screws. I pinch the tab on the MAF using a needle nose, then pry with a screwdriver. Note the tab is on the underside of the plug and is oriented along the cable, you can't pinch your pliers perpendicular to the cable... use a mirror. Then remove the two screws and pull it out. Spray the crap out of the whole unit and shake off the fluid. Done. To clean the throttle body, remove the whole airbox, remove the rubber air hose at the throttle body and lift out. If you have an S, there is an air valve attached on the right side of airbox... you don't have to remove it, but swing the box out to access the throttle body. Spray the butterfly and the open the butterfly by pushing in on the bottom... hold it open and ram a rag in there... make sure you get the edges of the butterfly.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
I doubt this was the cause of my stalling. This is actually not much dirt (actually oil). Before clean, rag after... I use MAF cleaner on all.
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-11-2023 at 04:32 PM.
12-09-2023, 12:35 PM
997.2 Random Stalling - Ideas?
