BG3

I took my '12 GTS in for a PDK service and to replace front bump stops and rear control arms (bushings) under warranty. While the front is completely apart, I'm considering going ahead with some wear parts as preventative maint.: spring caps, bearings, spring insulator, mounts. The tech mentioned the struts. There's currently nothing wrong with the struts but, the car is close to 12 years old now. Any experience on lifespan for the factory struts and whether or not I should go ahead and replace them? After all, labor is already covered.

She only has 22,605 on the odo.

They're recommending the Bilstein B6's.

Thanks in advance!

Graufuchs

I would do it. Labor is free, might as well.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 192K miles

From the cheap seats: heck no... unless they are leaking, I would not. Further, I would never replace one end of the car with a different model than is in the rear. I am not convinced when folks will say "this is the exact replacement for...." when it comes to shocks. I did that on my Boxster and the ride was different... long story.... anywho... I don't like replacing something if it isn't broken (well most of the time).

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

BG3

This was definitely in my mind. The B6 is a slightly firmer dampening than stock. B4's are supposed to be stock replacement. I don't mind preventative maintenance when it makes sense. but, at $500 ea, ie $1,000 for something that isn't broken, that is less of a value to me. That said, this is where I was hoping someone had real-world data on how the OE PASM struts are holding up on the 997.2s...

Bruce In Philly

I should have added, my rear shocks started leaking at around 90K miles. I would not draw a conclusion that this is how long they usually last... leaking or failed shocks are generally pretty rare here on this forum and the mileage at which they do leak is all over the place IIRC.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Wayne Smith

I'm at 153K miles with a lot of pot holes and rough roads in my past. Still on all original suspension. No leaks. Did add DSC, stiff motor mounts, and stiff transmission mount bushings.

Would a refresh help? Probably. But not nearly as much as driver training!!!

When / if I ever get to doing a refresh, it will be both ends. I would never recommend doing one end at a time.

BG3

I came to the same conclusion about 30 minutes ago. I didn't want to risk messing with the balance. It's such a great handling machine.

I probably could've tackled this myself but, I am not a fan of consumer spring compressors. I just don't trust my life to them.

I don't mind doing the work. I took the back end of the car apart last winter and tackled the plugs, drive belt, filters, brake flush (including a bleed nipple replacment. A PO had apparently rounded it off). While I was at it, I pulled the fender liners and cleaned everything from the engine, down. You can eat off the wheel wells at the moment..Also got new shoes. After this suspension touch up, the car will be in like-new condition. She needs to be driven more...

Bruce In Philly

You don't need spring compressors.

I replaced all four shocks when I did my rears... yes, the fronts didn't require replacement but I did it anyway... and I didn't need the compressors... the fit was like perfect. I rented a set from Autozone .... free. but forget it, you don't need them.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

Wayne Smith

B16s can be purchased with springs already installed.

BG3

So, there's no preload on the springs on the struts?

Petza914

At 22k miles, I would not replace them unless they're leaking and if replacing them, upgrade to B16 coilovers - they're fantastic and if you combine them with DSC, even better.

Bruce In Philly

This fitment is like perfect.... when you pull the struts off, they look like the springs are compressed... they are but only for a few turns of the retaining nut. Nothing explodes. So... if I were you, I would rent a set just in case to make you feel better as it can be scary (Autozone rentals are free, you can get a rod puller there too, that you will need). You don't need to compress the spring way down... just enough to ensure they are clamped. You will see, this is not biggie.

The real issue you will face is removing the top nut from the rear shock assembly, (the strut). For non-PASM cars (PASM has a cable coming out the top of the shaft) the nut will turn the shaft.The easy way is just take an impact gun to it. The shock will loosen the nut even thought the shaft will turn. If you don't own an impact gun, now is the time to buy one. I am not advocating any brand, but I use the Porter Cable system... 20V battery system. Don't get the smallest gun, get their big gun. Many good systems out there. Further, an impact gun can make removal of suspension bolts quicker... although I tend to use extended had wrenches because I want to feel what is going on or not. The reason I know this works, is because we could not get the top nut off of my friends Toureg shock (no PASM-like cable), so we ran the strut up to a BMW speed shop... had to take some darting eyes and smiles... the guy grabbed and impact gun and ZING...

If you have PASM, I used a big pipe wrench to hold that brass washer/ring... read my effort here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post13149501 I just re-read my writeup and is missed how to remove the nut from the rear as it spins. I think I put a piece of rubber around the shaft with a lock wrench, then put an extended box wrench on the nut... turned it over on its side (the wrench will keep the system from twisting down... and whacked the end of the extended wrench... mimics what an impact gun does.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

BG3

Thank you for the details, @Bruce In Philly ! I have an impact, air and battery, actually. But, the GTS also has PASM. So, I'll have to deal with the wires when the time comes. Hopefully, it's a long ways off. I think I dread the idea of taking apart the interior more than the suspension itself!

Petza914

With PASM and the wires that extend through the top, you need either a modified socket with a crescent cut out of the side or to use one of those MaxAxess type pass through ratchet sets. Porsche was smart in the way they designed the shocks and mounts as there is a notch on the side of the threaded top and the washer that goes under the not has a mated bump that goes in that notch as well as two holes in the large top washer. If you make a spanner with pins or some other tool that lets you securely hold the top washer via those holes, you can keep the strut from turning as you remove the nut with the aforementioned ratchet or even a wrench that gives the wire somewhere to be.

BG3

@Petza914 , that makes sense. I'm sure I have some spanners from my younger days as a bike shop manager/mechanic.

I need you guys to give me an excuse to get her out for a drive. Life just keeps getting in the way. I'd love to meet you guys and buy you a drink or whatever. Really appreciate the advice over the years!