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details on changing SPRINGS with PASM cars?

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Old 03-29-2016, 01:00 AM
  #1  
rodH
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Default details on changing SPRINGS with PASM cars?

Having my Eibachs installed this week. Friend that is doing it is an Audi mechanic so some things will be unique on the 911. It sounds like everything is pretty straightforward, but all the DIY tutorials I see are on non-PASM cars.

Does this add a lot of work to the situation, or is it just as simple as just disconnecting the PASM wire and using the pass-thru sockets? I don't see in the tutorials about how to disconnect the PASM wires and where they are located.

TIA. Can't wait to get this done, this thing is a 4X4 stock
Old 03-29-2016, 01:53 AM
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nwGTS
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Just like you said. It's exactly the same save for disconnecting the PASM wires, using a pass through and, for the fronts, a monkey wrench to hold the top washer while unthreading the top nut with the pass through sockets.
Old 03-29-2016, 10:32 AM
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Bruce In Philly
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Default 997.2 Shock Spring Strut Removal Tips

I did new shocks all around on my 2009 C2S. The evil nut on the fronts is tough, and nwGTS is correct, you will need a very large plumber's pipe wrench to grab and hold it. It appears to accept some mystery tool, but a monkey wrench will do fine. The rears are no problem, loosen the top nut while in the car.

A few tips (there are significant differences between 997.1 and .2):
1 - another floor jack will help take pressure off of the rear shock. You will need to grab the end of the shock edge with the edge of the floor jack
2 - You do not need to compress the springs on the front shocks to remove the shock. You may not need to compress the rears either... I did and realized later that it may not have been necessary. Even with the rear springs compressed, the shock will still exert pressure hence the need to compress a bit with the floor jack... this allows removal of the bottom bolt.
3 - You will need a tie rod puller (larger one) on a rear control arm to allow removal of the lower shock bolt. The arm is in the way.... I had my buddy pull it away with a crow bar as I pulled out the bolt... remember the jack is under there also hence the need for another person. Note in the picture below, on the nut for the control arm, you will need a Torx bit and socket to counter and remove the nut.
4 - I used virtually every darn odd wrench size and had to stop work and go buy some more - instructions for the 997.1 were not correct for the .2
5 - Mark the top rings etc. with a sharpie before removal to allow for you to align everything the same way
6 - I re-greased the strut bearings with a high quality lithium grease.... some said to do this .... whatever.
7 - Some have done this work with two people in 5 hours, it took me two days with help on the rears, and solo on the fronts - you will need help for the rears
8 - I recommend lifting the entire front, and then the entire rear to relieve pressure on the sway bar
9 - Rent spring compressor and tie rod puller (larger one) from Autozone.... they return all your money, yes rentals there are FREE!
10 - Passthrough socket set is invaluable
11- I hung the front brake assembly with a strap passed up through the shock hole and around the fender... there is a space to pass a strap there even fully assembled.
12 - Check your lower control arms for tears in the center bushings... I found tears so I completed the job, ordered new arms (TRW) and had the alignment shop install them. If you have high mileage like I did (around 95K), I recommend ordering a set for the rears and just replacing them when you are in there... these are a common wear item.
13 - The front shocks fall out very easily without standing or levering the wheel carrier. Just push it down with one hand, and it will fall out. I recommend slipping a towel up under and over the top of the strut to avoid scratching your fender as it falls forward and out.
14 - When I was done, the computer went stupid... had to relearn the TPMS... not biggie, just drive it.

Peace
Bruce in Philly


Evil Washer


Ripped rubber.


Near bolt on control arm - remove to remove shock bolt - put jack under edge of shock under shock bolt - this is for 997.2 and not 997.1


Note strap holding brake.


Pass-through wrench is invaluable. Note I did not remove the seat pins.


And the girls love it!

Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 03-29-2016 at 12:31 PM.



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