SBPORSCHE

Battery was totally disconnected, and the frunk was completely closed.
Connecting the fuse box back up to electricity did not enable either the drunk pop button adjacent to the door sill, or the frunk pop button on the key that was stuck in the lock cylinder to enable the frunk to open.

Traditional back up of is the removing of the front drivers side wheel. Then fender liner to find the cable which enables a manual release of the frunk. (In my case this was non viable given center locks and lowered suspension).

I found an alternate solution, which goes like this:
-step 1 Connect power through the fuse box pull out positive bypass lots of online videos on this.
-step 2 Remove key from lock cylinder.
This requires utilizing the small metal rod attached to the fuse box cover. Use this tool to remove the small moon shaped piece at the 1-3 o’clock area. Then push the pin side of the metal rod into the tiny hole. The key lock will now release.
-step 3 Open Frunk
Push down on the key fobs frunk release and the hood will magically open. (Please note that the pull tab adjacent to the door sill still won’t work even after doing steps 1 and 2… YOU HAVE TO USE THE KEY FOB FRUNK RELEASE BUTTON.

sandwedge

Interesting. Never saw this solution before. Me, I'm old fashioned and try to keep it simple. So when disconnecting the battery for lengthy travel, first order of business is to grab an old towel in the garage, fold it over nice and thick and put it on top of the frunk locking mechanism, making it impossible to lock it. Then disconnect the battery. In that order

I've done this many times, once for a month long stay overseas and once back with the battery connected it cranked strong as if with a new battery. You'll get some alerts on the dash as you get on the road but they'll go away in a minute or two. At least in my car.

Petza914

You're essentially doing the same thing. The key part doesn't matter, however I'm very surprised that with the battery disconnected on one post this works. It would make sense that Porsche would make it work and it means there a direct connection to the frunk latch assembly from the pull out post.

Astur

For the love of me I can't understand why members are still having problems with opening the frunk when the battery dies. The solution is so simple and so quickly done that the it borders on the absurd. I personally did it in about 20 minutes and I'm by no means mechanically adept.

This is the link to a post by Wayne Smith that shows step by step how to end this problem in the future: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ase-cable.html

BTW, Wayne also offers a similar solution/hack for opening the engine lid. I did mine in about 10 minutes and only because I had to remove and replace the license plate. Here's the link to that (see Post #3) https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post17018908

Wayne Smith

Note: After doing several of these frunk releases for friends, I found some of the cables were hard to pull. The fix? I bought a dozen bicycle brake cables from Amazon. They were cheap. Route the sheath first. This is a lot easier than routing a floppy wire. Then insert the cable. Smooth as butter.

Wayne Smith

You need to connect a ground somewhere as well.

Am I missing something?

Isn't this the same procedure that is printed in the Owner's Manual?

Per Petza, if so, then there would be no need for a battery connecting in the frunk since that battery is isolated when the connector is pulled out.

The one addition in your list is the key removal using the tool supplied on the fuse door panel. But is this really necessary?

Please bear with me here. I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm just trying to better understand.

Antigravity

Hey all,

We, at Antigravity did some experimenting on the aspect of the frunk not opening due to battery failure, or a drained battery, or having trouble using the Keyfob or switch when energized through the red buss in the fuse box. So we developed a simple harness solution a few years back that allows you to get energy to the battery and cars system via a mini jumpstarter such as our MICRO-START line of Jump Starters, or others that use the EC5 connector or similar connectors to ours. The problem is that the switch is not getting a good supply of voltage and current when powering through the red buss on the fusebox, but if you power the battery terminals directly you have solid power to the cars system and the frunk pops no problem when you attach a Lithium jump starter to our Harness kit. We call it the "Clampless Harness kit" because we market it as a way to not have to access you battery to jump start your car so you don't need to use the clampls. Its basically a longer length of 8 or 10-awg silicone wires that you can quickly attach to the bolts of your battery terminals in 30 seconds, then route the harness to the leading edge of windshield and then pull it out when needed and jump start or simply open your frunk when needed. This also cures the key stuck in the ignition since you are getting a solid energy supply to the cars system directly from the battery cables.

It on our website here... https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...s-msa10b-long/

Take a minute to watch the video on the website to see how it works.... it simple and effective.

997.2GTS

Well well, today I got to test out whether the emergency frunk release works if the negative terminal is disconnected. I had closed the frunk after recharging the battery but had forgotten to reconnect the negative terminal. Closed frunk and no start with immediate stomach drop. I know my frunk release works, as I used the post, ground, 12v battery before.

After connecting power and hearing the emergency relay click, I could pop my frunk using the key just as if the battery was connected.

One interesting note - my key was stuck in the lock, as is default behavior (i believe) when there is no power so i tried to use my other key, no dice. I discovered the emergency relay additionally powers the vehicle lock and after i removed the key, i could pop the frunk. The key was not removable until energized by the aux power. I bet this is so you can release the steering lock and move the vehicle in emergencies. Anyhow, an interesting fact, and now it's tested. You don't need a battery in place to utilize the frunk or steering lock functions.

Jack667

I know I posted this before but I can't find it. Here goes again since I'm such a big believer. For all the people that blather on about trickle chargers and all that, please hold your tongue. It's like if someone left their lights on and is trying to figure out the best way to jump start the car next time, and these helpful people tell you to just turn your lights off and you'll be fine...
Anyway - for those that get stuck in this accidental situation, which I did myself, I think the best solution is to use this item below and get just enough juice to pop the frunk. Don't use it to jump the car! After you pop the frunk, then jump the battery with proper cables, or connect your trickle charger, or replace the battery, etc. This is so easy, it actually puts a smile on your face! The only thing is that you have to have it handy - so like in your garage, but what if your battery dies at the airport or something. If you're going to leave your car for any length of time, it could always go in the passenger armrest, passenger rear footwell, or something like that.

wail junkie

I'm currently stuck in this nightmare but not seeing the same results when trying this method. I normally am able to store the car in a garage with a tender when I am away for a couple of months, but this time that option was not available and I left the car under a car cover with the battery disconnected. I forgot about this ridiculous bit of German engineering so of course I fully closed the frunk after disconnecting the battery for storage.

Now I'm back and have tried everything possible:
1.Connect battery tender through cig lighter to power electrical systems
2.Powering the electrical systems through the fuse box with a jump box
3.Doing the same with the battery from another car
4.Lifting the car and jumping through all the hoops to pull the emergency frunk release cable

With 1-3, neither the door release nor the key fob button worked. With #4, the cable with was just not budging, I had to put everything back until I can get some locking pliers.

Are you saying that for you the key fob button only worked with the key inserted into the cylinder? I've found so many posts about this topic but most of them involve a dead battery and not a disconnected battery. After trying 1-3 many times I was just assuming now that those only worked with the battery still connected. This is the first post I see that clearly states that this method worked with a fully disconnected battery.

CAVU

Post 34 for the inner workings https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...isaster-3.html

Petza914

If the battery is disconnected a Battery Tender to the cigarette lighter won't do a thing. The pull out in the fuse box has a direct connection to the frunk pop and only works with the key button and only works if the key is not in the ignition.

So, open door, pop off fuse box cover, connect spare battery with traditional jumper cables (smart.auto polarity sensing ones don't work). Positive to the slide out, negative to the door striker that the door closes onto, wait 15 seconds, hold down frunk pop button on the key until the trunk pops - it may take up to 10 seconds of holding.

997.2GTS

The emergency frunk release using the pull-out post is a proven method that works, as long as all conditions are satisfied. Outside of the good advice that's already been posted ad-nauseam (use only a battery for the 12 volts, horizontal connection on the post, good ground, key button only) I think the one recent surprise for me was what I posted in #8 - the key MUST be out of the ignition for this frunk key button method to work. I also discovered that my other key (key #1) would NOT operate the frunk release until I had freed the stuck key (#2), and even then, I believe it was only the key stuck in the lock that opened the frunk using this procedure. This was all with my battery fully disconnected.

So, if you did not:
- go back to using the battery from another car as the 12v source, check polarity and ground.
- ensure no key is in ignition.
- try the other key just in case.

GL.

wail junkie

I've tried this already multiple times, except with this much time between connecting the to the terminals and pressing the button, and this much time holding the button down. I will give it another try with the 15+10 timing that you recommend...

fpajonk

Happens to me every now and then. What I never understood: When the battery is dead (or almost dead), the switch in the door sill doesn't work. However, the remote button releases the frunk. Just like that. Nothing attached to the car's fuse box.