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The clutch interlock switch is a very common problem in the 997s. Keep pushing the clutch to floor to see if the switch will make contact.
It's a fairly cheap part.
Sounds like you may need a new Indy- where you located in Jersey? I had an Indy that I had to divorce because of no $ breaks for trial and error type crap after being loyal and gouged for about 5+ years
You can't even scan the car. The ignition needs to be on for my Autel to recognize the dongle. The ignition is dead electronically. Has to be the switch. Seems this is not a rarity on 996s and 997s.
At least I have a car cover to keep it dry till the switch comes.
I already have the old one out. I disassembled it to see what I could see. Nothing obvious. Could be a component in the discreet circuits.
Typically it is the spring contacts that lose connection. Cleaning and dielectric grease can restore operation. I bought a new one, new part is Spanish, old one is Australian. Bosch appear to have a bunch of fault-prone switches from that plant.
As I see it, your problem supercedes the clutch, the battery, or any other interlock. You're saying the key isn't seen. Even with a weak battery (it's strong enough to open the frunk and roll down the windows even though it was weak enough to drop the window settings ... thus the eventual full roll down of the windows) the dash should at least light up. If go to either the key or the ignition switch ... can't say which.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery..
Now follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the connection on the firewall. The end of that cable is a female socket with contacts inside that goes over a male pin that comes from the power distribution block inside the car. The pin corrodes and makes for a bad connection. Slide the locking clip, and remove the socket to see the condition of the pin - any corrosion or rust there?
His part# was 997 618-159 05. The part# on my switch is 997 618 161-01. Distinction without a difference?
2009 C2S191k miles
I don't know why the difference... but always check part numbers against the official parts catalog here, and cross check with various parts sites like Pelican and FCPEuro.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery..
Now follow the positive battery cable from the battery to the connection on the firewall. The end of that cable is a female socket with contacts inside that goes over a male pin that comes from the power distribution block inside the car. The pin corrodes and makes for a bad connection. Slide the locking clip, and remove the socket to see the condition of the pin - any corrosion or rust there?
I had a very similar issue for some time and it was remedied by replacing the starter harness and car battery (think this deterioration was caused by the harness). No issues since replaced well over a year ago. Starts immediately every time.
Installed the replacement ignition switch and....nothing. It is not the switch. I thought it might be the key, but I installed a new battery and it locks the doors just fine.
Does the new switch need to be programmed to the car?
It is not the clutch lockout either. The car doesn't even turn on when you turn the switch. Dash lights do not come on. Nothing that is supposed to activate when the key is turned to the on position, like headlights and windows work.
There has to be a fuse that controls power to all the systems when the key is first turned on. ???
FWIW, the amplifier in the radio stopped working a few weeks ago. CarPlay connected, I could run the apps, but not a peep from the speakers, not even a button beep from the radio. I located the amplifier fuse, removed and checked it and reinstalled it. Amplifier has worked fine since. This feel like that kind of issue.
Ok, if you have no dash lights and nothin when you turn the key, the fusible link in the power distribution block is blown. This is what happened to me when I shorted my alternator positive wire.
This unit is under the dash on the passenger side. You have to remove the positive battery connection cable.from it, remove the two nusts on the threaded posts that hold it in and remove it from inside the car.
The one that will be blown is the one in this photo that looks different from the others
This is the connection on the battery side of the firewall This is what the power distribution block looks like when you remove it and shows the 2 threaded studs The different one is the one that blows and causes no dash lights and no start
Wow it's getting deep.
can you lock and unlock the doors with the Fob.. like pressing the buttons??
Yes. And when I insert the key into the switch, the steering wheel unlocks. When I turn the key to the right, nothing...no dash lights. Key locks into the switch. When I turn it to the left it clicks and the key can be removed.
07-26-2023, 10:41 PM
