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Curious what something like that costs? Does it affect resiliency?
It shouldn’t affect anything negatively. I paid $1k for the whole exhaust which included the mufflers, x-pipe, brackets, clamps, tips and even the heat shields that cover the spark plugs. I was originally asking for cerakote because they had a bunch of cool shades to select. He is a cerakote dealer but talked me out of those because from his experience it doesn’t hold up on exhaust components. I went with another coating product specifically for exhausts. I dropped off the pile of parts as is. He media blasted and coated everything. You can see the before and after on post #23.
Just got these in and ready to get them installed. Has anyone installed springs in a 4S (Turbo is the same…I think) that can lend some advice? Do I have to remove the front axle nuts to get enough play to clear the units out of the wheel well?
I decided to give the suspension a bit of a refresh and picked up a set of Eibach springs. I don’t like a slammed ride but the car is an inch too high for my taste. The struts themselves are fine. The rears were replaced less than 20k miles ago and the front have 56k with no signs of leaking. Here is the refresh list.
Top mounts (front)
Bump stops
Strut bearings
Bellows
Top nuts
Brake lines
Brake line brackets
Brake line lock washers
Various nuts, bolts
Tie rods
2L ATE 200
Everything was in pretty good shape. The only thing that really needed changing was the strut bearings which I could not evaluate without taking it all apart. I ran 2L of ATE fluid through the system and my Foxwell was able to activate the anti-lock system to fully flush the system.
Notes: The DIYs online were good. The front axles do add a layer of complexity but not too bad. I opted to disconnect it from the inner joint versus the hub like most people. I don’t have a torque wrench capable of 350 ft lbs. The inner joint is just 6 allen bolts per side. The other thing that got me stuck was lack of a spanner wrench to lock the washer while removing the top bolt of the front struts. I had to Amazon one to finish the job.
There were two different rubber pads ‘ compensating plates ‘ listed in the parts catalog for my VIN. I double checked with the dealer and they said the same thing. The only way to check is to look at the actual part number. Mine had the 3.5mm version 996 343 525 01 (99634352501).
I just had the car aligned back in June but unfortunately it will need it again. I should have timed it all a little better.
As soon as I get it washed up, I’ll posted up some pictures of the lowered ride and GT2 side skirts.
The PPF on the front is starting to peal in a couple of corners. It’s probably time to take it off anyway due to age. Hot water on a microfiber towel worked perfect. It didn’t put up too much of a fight.
I took it over to Trophy Performance to get alignment. It’s measuring 26” from ground to fender (F & R). I didn’t measure the before, but it calculates to 0.50” drop? I’ve driven it 50 miles or so yesterday, found some speed bumps, etc and still the same measurement. I’m very happy with the results. The ride is better than factory PASM springs.
I can tell a difference in swapping out the worn strut bearings. Much smoother steering!
I decided to upgrade the bulbs in my headlights. I ordered a set of these. The philips had good reviews and I believe philips makes the OE bulbs? It was a straight forward install with no surprises.
I decided to upgrade the bulbs in my headlights. I ordered a set of these. The philips had good reviews and I believe philips makes the OE bulbs? It was a straight forward install with no surprises.
I got them from hidconcept.com . I knew they were an authorized resaler as I had heard there is a lot of counterfeits on the market plus they had a sale too.
The box they came in was Philips sealed manufactured in Germany.
11-25-2023, 08:01 PM
