MichaelGCypher

We posted solutions for multiple instances of issues one may come across.

Skube

I am trying to bypass the weird programmable box, and just go direct like you did for the DRL. Where did you connect into? Did you use a fuse adder/tap or tap in someplace else in the frunk bay? I haven't looked at it enough yet, but not looking forward to going through the firewall to get to the fuse box. Any pictures you can share?

Hatzenbach

I tapped into the fusebox, it's the tap on the left side



the next picture shows the firewall on the driver's side (on the left would be the battery and on the right you can see the cap for the windshield water.
There is a rubber grommet (highlighted by the red arrow). I punched a hole through it and pushed the wire through.
I didn't take a picture from the footwell, but's in easy reach behind the pedals



here's a closer look


and I ordered these connectors from amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B092YSQ7...roduct_details to connect to the Morimoto wire harness that goes to the lights

By the way: the second red wire has nothing to do with lighting, it goes to the electric pump for my PDK cooler

quickxotica

I installed these yesterday and had no issues with the process. Everything checked out afterward in the garage but I haven't had them out on the road yet. My car is a 2012 997.2 C2S with the standard single projector HIDs. The new lights seem very high quality and look great on & off. The stock headlights look very chrome/dated by comparison (see side-by-side photo below for reference - note the stock unit was already unlocked when I snapped this shot).

Couple tiny install notes:
1. After locking the new units into place, removing the factory tool from the access hole in the side of the frunk was more difficult than with the stock lights. This suggests to me that the Morimoto units may sit (very slightly) differently in the housing than stock -- just enough to shift the retaining bar that locks the headlights a few millimeters aft, causing the tool to bind a bit on the side of the access hole. Not a huge deal, but it was the same for me on both sides, so perhaps not a fluke unique to my car.
2. After install, I notice that when shutting the car down the new DRLs remain lit for about 30 seconds before they turn off. This is like the stock "Home" mode, but occurs even when the switch on the dash is set to the 'OFF' position. Not a big deal but might be nice to be able to have the option of either (like the stock distinction between 'Off" and "Home' on the dial).
3. Looking closely at the outermost trim rings (the part with silver vertical corrugations), the new lights are very similar to OEM units but the trim has six tiny half-moon nicks evenly spaced around their inner edge. These seem intentional, but I can't guess what they're for. Perhaps they are simply an artifact of the manufacturing process. You can see the top pair most obviously; like someone nipped the inner edge with a paper hole punch. The middle and lower pair a much smaller and less noticeable but still there if you look for them. See lowermost photos below. Only a freak would notice.

Overall, I'm a happy customer. I will post an update after I've used these for a few weeks. Cheers!




Comparison of Morimoto (L) vs Stock HID (R)

BRN9121

Good to have you here as well Josh.
Member designo on the CL forum here.

Skube

Thank you, pictures are super helpful, and this is real really clean method, buying parts today to get this prep work done before the lights go in.

Khloesdad

Yes, run a 7.5 amp small fusable link.

Hatzenbach

I tapped into fuse C2, but you could also use for example B9
Also a 5 Amp fuse should be more than enough
5 Amp = 60W at 12V, I doubt that the LED lights pull more than 30W

Meraki Autoworks

Nice!

Let us know if you need anything.

-Josh

MichaelGCypher

(deleted - it was already answered)

I also added the direct wire info you guys listed above to my product listing page - thanks for that!

https://cyphervehicledesign.com/prod...le-pre-order-2

PorscheRob23

my engine bay has a blue wire going through the area you’re suggesting, are there any alternative areas where I can fish a wire through to the fuse box? I think the blue wire might be for the PASM.



better angle, blue wire is attached to front suspension.

Better angle

PorscheRob23

update, just pull a line of automotive wire around the grommet. Then splice with connector head.

myw

is there a version with the headlamp rings that match the factory gunMetal oem shade?

there was a video review that acknowledged the grey ring color being light compared to the factory shade - being a beautiful black housing headlamp the ring should be darker as per all the oem black headlamp housing designs.

9elvn

Just installed these and I love them 2 question for the experts…
1) when I run the DRL line to the fuse box (decided to bypass the morimoto box) do I need a ground? And if so how do I add one? There seems to be only a single wire.

2) the passenger light went in but I don’t get a locking sound like I did on the drivers side. I also can’t seem to unlock it… any thoughts on this? I can’t seem to remove or lock it w the sound now.

thanks!

Khloesdad

It is grounded internally. Cant answer your second question. Both of mine clicked when locking like OEM.