Update on alternate frunk release cable
#1
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Update on alternate frunk release cable
I've installed the alternate frunk release cable to the back side of the right front fender light on a half dozen cars now. It has worked great on some cars and been very hard to pull on others. So I put that problem to the side to think about it when I wake up at 3AM. As a result I recently bought a 5 pack of bicycle brake cables with housings and fittings.
That gives me enough material to do ten cars. I cut one of the cables and housings to a length I figured would work. For future updates I might opt to add a couple inches to the cable and another 10 to the housing but the dimensions in the following pictures did work (to clarify from the pictures, I used 42" for the cable length with 11" less on the housing). I crimped an end connector to the cut end after putting the cable into the housing. All parts were included in the kits.
Before loosening the frunk latch remember to mark your bolt / washer locations. Also note how the frunk cover aligns with the front bumper when closed.
I then used the original wire I installed to pull the new bike brake cable with housing through to the fender light. If you haven't already installed a wire you will need to push and prod the new cable ... a friend with a flashlight might come in handy.
I then used a tie strap to anchor the cable end to the frunk latch at the bottom of the lever.
So with the latch back in position the final routing looked like ...
And the cable stows behind the fender light like ...
And most importantly, with the housing around the cable guiding the pull now the frunk opens with very little pull required on the cable. Now I have five other cars to update!!!
That gives me enough material to do ten cars. I cut one of the cables and housings to a length I figured would work. For future updates I might opt to add a couple inches to the cable and another 10 to the housing but the dimensions in the following pictures did work (to clarify from the pictures, I used 42" for the cable length with 11" less on the housing). I crimped an end connector to the cut end after putting the cable into the housing. All parts were included in the kits.
Before loosening the frunk latch remember to mark your bolt / washer locations. Also note how the frunk cover aligns with the front bumper when closed.
I then used the original wire I installed to pull the new bike brake cable with housing through to the fender light. If you haven't already installed a wire you will need to push and prod the new cable ... a friend with a flashlight might come in handy.
I then used a tie strap to anchor the cable end to the frunk latch at the bottom of the lever.
So with the latch back in position the final routing looked like ...
And the cable stows behind the fender light like ...
And most importantly, with the housing around the cable guiding the pull now the frunk opens with very little pull required on the cable. Now I have five other cars to update!!!
The following 12 users liked this post by Wayne Smith:
ADias (12-05-2022),
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BucketList (12-07-2022),
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and 7 others liked this post.
#5
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#6
RL Community Team
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Nice. You should put together and sell a kit and make a few bucks.
The following 5 users liked this post by Petza914:
ATX_Native (12-07-2022),
BucketList (12-07-2022),
Coolwnc (12-07-2022),
frybear (12-08-2022),
Hella-Buggin' (12-07-2022)
#7
Three Wheelin'
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#9
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Amazon for the bike brake cables. Install is easy ... just add a tie strap to the brake cable kit.
Edit to add link ...
Available in different colors.
Edit to add link ...
Available in different colors.
Last edited by Wayne Smith; 12-07-2022 at 12:13 AM.
#10
#11
I wonder if running wires from the hot accessory in the pass footwell to the fuse box jumper and the door latch would work?
#12
RL Community Team
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#13
Im talking about using the cars 12V battery power from the footwell cig lighter adapter and attaching one lead to the fuse box pull out jump and the other lead to a ground (door latch).
Might just be a short now that I think about it.
Not a different 12V power source.
Doh. Nevermind - the battery isnt connected. Ha.
Might just be a short now that I think about it.
Not a different 12V power source.
Doh. Nevermind - the battery isnt connected. Ha.
Last edited by BHMav8r; 12-08-2022 at 11:07 AM.
#14
RL Community Team
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Im talking about using the cars 12V battery power from the footwell cig lighter adapter and attaching one lead to the fuse box pull out jump and the other lead to a ground (door latch).
Might just be a short now that I think about it.
Not a different 12V power source.
Doh. Nevermind - the battery isnt connected. Ha.
Might just be a short now that I think about it.
Not a different 12V power source.
Doh. Nevermind - the battery isnt connected. Ha.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I thought the pull out tab was to isolate the dead battery so it wouldn't compromise (pull down) your alternate 12VDC supply. Thus the need to use your remote to unlatch the frunk since the tab only supplies power to the front computer. Also this is the reason a battery tender won't work as a power source.