2008 C4s disengage clutch message
08-02-2022, 12:31 PM
#1
2008 C4s disengage clutch message
Hi all,
I've been having issues from time to time on starting my car. at times the car won't turn over and gives me a message to disengage clutch. I've read it could be a clutch switch that went bad. my car is still under the 2 year CPO so I took the car in to get the switch replaced. They swapped the switch out under warranty and the car worked fine for a couple of days but then the issue happened again. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. The day I brought it in, I had the issue but eventually got it to start. At the dealer, the mechanics seemed to not have any issues starting it. I've watched them start it a couple of times before they brought it back out saying there was no issue. The car started fine when I jumped in to bring it back home but at home and a couple days later, the issue came up again. I thought maybe I wasn't pressing the clutch down enough or the floor mats were flopped up where the clutch wasn't going all the way down but at times I would literally slam the clutch all the way down and the car still won't turn over. It takes me a couple tries to get it to fire up but it eventually does. At this point I don't know what it could be. Is there a specific point on the clutch pedal that needs to be pressed down all the way? Could it be something else? Anyone else had this issue?
I've been having issues from time to time on starting my car. at times the car won't turn over and gives me a message to disengage clutch. I've read it could be a clutch switch that went bad. my car is still under the 2 year CPO so I took the car in to get the switch replaced. They swapped the switch out under warranty and the car worked fine for a couple of days but then the issue happened again. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. The day I brought it in, I had the issue but eventually got it to start. At the dealer, the mechanics seemed to not have any issues starting it. I've watched them start it a couple of times before they brought it back out saying there was no issue. The car started fine when I jumped in to bring it back home but at home and a couple days later, the issue came up again. I thought maybe I wasn't pressing the clutch down enough or the floor mats were flopped up where the clutch wasn't going all the way down but at times I would literally slam the clutch all the way down and the car still won't turn over. It takes me a couple tries to get it to fire up but it eventually does. At this point I don't know what it could be. Is there a specific point on the clutch pedal that needs to be pressed down all the way? Could it be something else? Anyone else had this issue?
08-02-2022, 01:54 PM
#2
Hi all,
I've been having issues from time to time on starting my car. at times the car won't turn over and gives me a message to disengage clutch. I've read it could be a clutch switch that went bad. my car is still under the 2 year CPO so I took the car in to get the switch replaced. They swapped the switch out under warranty and the car worked fine for a couple of days but then the issue happened again. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. The day I brought it in, I had the issue but eventually got it to start. At the dealer, the mechanics seemed to not have any issues starting it. I've watched them start it a couple of times before they brought it back out saying there was no issue. The car started fine when I jumped in to bring it back home but at home and a couple days later, the issue came up again. I thought maybe I wasn't pressing the clutch down enough or the floor mats were flopped up where the clutch wasn't going all the way down but at times I would literally slam the clutch all the way down and the car still won't turn over. It takes me a couple tries to get it to fire up but it eventually does. At this point I don't know what it could be. Is there a specific point on the clutch pedal that needs to be pressed down all the way? Could it be something else? Anyone else had this issue?
I've been having issues from time to time on starting my car. at times the car won't turn over and gives me a message to disengage clutch. I've read it could be a clutch switch that went bad. my car is still under the 2 year CPO so I took the car in to get the switch replaced. They swapped the switch out under warranty and the car worked fine for a couple of days but then the issue happened again. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in. The day I brought it in, I had the issue but eventually got it to start. At the dealer, the mechanics seemed to not have any issues starting it. I've watched them start it a couple of times before they brought it back out saying there was no issue. The car started fine when I jumped in to bring it back home but at home and a couple days later, the issue came up again. I thought maybe I wasn't pressing the clutch down enough or the floor mats were flopped up where the clutch wasn't going all the way down but at times I would literally slam the clutch all the way down and the car still won't turn over. It takes me a couple tries to get it to fire up but it eventually does. At this point I don't know what it could be. Is there a specific point on the clutch pedal that needs to be pressed down all the way? Could it be something else? Anyone else had this issue?
It could also be a loose terminal, chewed wire, but all that is being checked when that error message lights is that circuit continuity. Being a manual, there's no check for brake depress prior to starting, so that rules out the brake switch. It would be hard to believe it could be anything else based on what you describe. Did the dealer really replace the switch, or did they test it with a multimeter and deem it "OK"? It's a false positive, as the switch contacts fail internally and sporadically do not work. Works 8 times out of 10, but will fail those two times.
08-02-2022, 03:00 PM
#3
These are the precise symptoms of a faulty switch - erratic. It is very easy to check (and quite accessible) - bridge the clutch switch terminals (you can pull off the two switch spade lugs and bridge them with a paperclip) and start the car (still pressing in the clutch for safety reasons).
It could also be a loose terminal, chewed wire, but all that is being checked when that error message lights is that circuit continuity. Being a manual, there's no check for brake depress prior to starting, so that rules out the brake switch. It would be hard to believe it could be anything else based on what you describe. Did the dealer really replace the switch, or did they test it with a multimeter and deem it "OK"? It's a false positive, as the switch contacts fail internally and sporadically do not work. Works 8 times out of 10, but will fail those two times.
It could also be a loose terminal, chewed wire, but all that is being checked when that error message lights is that circuit continuity. Being a manual, there's no check for brake depress prior to starting, so that rules out the brake switch. It would be hard to believe it could be anything else based on what you describe. Did the dealer really replace the switch, or did they test it with a multimeter and deem it "OK"? It's a false positive, as the switch contacts fail internally and sporadically do not work. Works 8 times out of 10, but will fail those two times.
Called the dealer to double confirm they replaced the switch and they told me my car has 2 switches and they only replaced one. They said the reason why they didn't replace the second one when I came for the second time was because they couldn't duplicate the issue. He said he ordered the second switch and to bring it in. My warranty is up august 14th so hopefully I don't have the same issue of them not being able to duplicate it.
08-03-2022, 08:39 AM
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The switch you need to have replaced is the one that's further up, not the easily accessible one - the lower one is not part of the starting circuit, all it does it retard the timing when letting it it out so people who aren't good at driving manuals don't stall the motor when leaving from a stop. In fact, a lot of us have jumpered that lower switch to eliminate that behavior. The upper switch is the one that has to trigger for the car to start and also the one that the cruise control uses to disengage. Once the replace that, you'll be good.
08-03-2022, 11:04 AM
#5
The switch you need to have replaced is the one that's further up, not the easily accessible one - the lower one is not part of the starting circuit, all it does it retard the timing when letting it it out so people who aren't good at driving manuals don't stall the motor when leaving from a stop. In fact, a lot of us have jumpered that lower switch to eliminate that behavior. The upper switch is the one that has to trigger for the car to start and also the one that the cruise control uses to disengage. Once the replace that, you'll be good.
08-03-2022, 11:14 AM
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Nope. That button switch is the one I have bypassed and I still get the depress clutch pedal message if I don't press it and the starter won't activate without the clutch depressed. That's likely the one they replaced already since it's easy. The other one is the one that controls starting and cruise control disengagement.
You can only bypass 17 on 997.1 cars - on 997.2 cars it throws an error code when you do
You can only bypass 17 on 997.1 cars - on 997.2 cars it throws an error code when you do
08-03-2022, 11:27 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
The switch you need to have replaced is the one that's further up, not the easily accessible one - the lower one is not part of the starting circuit, all it does it retard the timing when letting it it out so people who aren't good at driving manuals don't stall the motor when leaving from a stop. In fact, a lot of us have jumpered that lower switch to eliminate that behavior. The upper switch is the one that has to trigger for the car to start and also the one that the cruise control uses to disengage. Once the replace that, you'll be good.
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08-03-2022, 11:31 AM
#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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It's why it makes that kind of crappy exhaust sound as you first pull away too. Do a test by disconnecting the electrical part of the plug from the switch, jumper the terminals together and test drive it. See if you like the difference. Alternatively, you can untwist and remove the switch and just tape it closed to test it. Don't burn up your clutch especially on a hill start as the engine will be much more responsive as you set off now.
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8x57IRS (08-03-2022)
08-03-2022, 10:22 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Interesting. When you select Sport mode on a 997.1 does this also bypass the switch? I've stalled the car only a few times but each time was using Sport mode. It's obviously much more sensitive to throttle input
08-03-2022, 10:31 PM
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm not sure, but it's possible, as it kind of behaves the same way. Only my wife's car has SC and I haven't defeated her switch - mine has RUF tune because of the supercharger and no Sport button.