Kuro Neko

Goo Gone would have shifted, if left to soak?
It seems to remove stuff for me if I just place the bottle near something after a few days...

I like the black stone guards!

ADias

Excellent thread! It shows these cars can be owner maintained in many areas and the OP did an excellent job.

kiznarsh

Apparently "Rapid Remover" works even better, but I didn't have any.

And yeah, I'm really digging the black stone guards. Makes me consider going with black wheels but pretty sure I'll stick with silver once I upgrade later this year.

ADias

Are those the magnetic versions?

kiznarsh

Negative. I looked into those but didn't appear to be available these days. Here's what I got:

https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/55903500.html

MrIncredible

pretty sure I have that same buzz behind the window switches. It drives me crazy... Nice to know the fix.

ADias

What was your experience applying them? Tough to remove the air bubbles when placing the film?

kiznarsh

Applying them went fairly smoothly. After all the residue was removed, I polished the surface and then sprayed a soapy water solution, then peeled off just a little bit at a time while applying it with a squeegee. Tried to minimize any bubbles but inevitably you'll get some.

Hardest part was getting the film to attach to the body over the "ridge" near the bottom but after several attempts, it finally stuck. I'm also pretty OCD about stuff so I went over it many times with the squeegee to make sure all the soapy solution came out, and then went around the perimeter a couple times too.

kiznarsh

I recently completed a 1,500 mile road trip up to Northern California. Here are a few pics:






Took a look inside the engine bay after washing the car back home and noticed the idler pulley is starting to deteriorate. Should've swapped them all when I installed the new belt.



Marked the belt before removing.



The idler and roller pulleys are easy enough to remove, but the tensioner pulley is a kind of a pain with its poor access. There's a bolt with a 15mm head that you need to counter-hold while removing the 24mm nut on the front. The fact that it comes with red threadlocker from the factory doesn't make its removal any easier.





Victory is mine.



New pulleys and hardware. There's no space to back out the tensioner bolt; that requires removing the entire tensioner assembly which means removing the alternator, plenum boots, and probably a couple other items. It's something I could've done while I was replacing the battery cable but I left it alone given the mileage.



So I just cleaned the bolt and re-used it.



"Permanent"



Now when it came to put the tensioner pulley back on, I became smarter and removed the damn PS pump pulley. Duh.



This made getting the wrench on the nut easier when it came time to torque the nut. Not being able to counter-hold 44 ft-lbs with my fingertips because there's absolutely no room, I used a section of the engine block after protecting it with thick and heavy rubber. No issues.



There's probably some special Porsche tool for $4k to do this by the book. Here are the torque values I used:

Tensioner pulley bolt: 44 ft-lbs
Idler pulley bolt for alternator: 34 ft-lbs
Roller pulley bolt: 17 ft-lbs
PS pump pulley bolts: 17 ft-lbs

Also took this opportunity to replace the last O-ring on the PS fluid reservoir (it was backordered when I did the others).



Siphoned out as much of the old fluid as I could before replacing it. I did this once a couple months ago so I've now cycled about a liter of fresh fluid in there.



With that sorted, replaced the gas cap as it broke off in the middle of my trip and I had to place it on the ground like the bourgeoisie.



Terrific.

kiznarsh

Over the weekend I swapped the suspension with the Bilstein B12 kit (got it from FCP Euro). Also replaced the front and rear strut mounts, bearings, spring pads, etc. My car came with the 6.5mm spring pad (part no. 996-343-511-01) but there's also the 3 mm one (996-343-511-00). It's called "balancing plate" in the parts catalog. Not sure which cars come with the thinner one as they're not VIN-specific.



I was originally planning on doing the swap myself but wanted it done and aligned in a single day, so I had a shop knock it out.

Suspension hasn't settled yet but took some pics last night. The car feels tighter and more responsive, but I haven't done any canyon runs yet. It's just a bit more bumpy but not annoying. The Cayman R setup on my 987.2 was much more of a transformation but that suspension was also much more tired.





The plastic extension on the fender liner that extends down now scrapes on everything, lol. Ground clearance for the tip is like 2".









I'll do another set of comparison shots in the sun after a couple of months. Enjoying the car more and more with each little upgrade.

myw

this thread is AMAZING

amazing work my friend. what a PRO!

propchef

And you even have the wheel crests correctly oriented.

Well done sir. Mine's identical but a Tip. So many of those little details are on my list, so the steps are much appreciated.

Hootsama

Very nice work and excellent photography, @kiznarsh. Thank you for sharing the detailed events, actions, observations, etc. Very informative! And your car is looking fantastic these days.

kiznarsh

Appreciate the kind words!

Thanks! Yeah, so many of the repairs/upgrades seem to be standard tasks that so many end up doing.

Thank you!

Kuro Neko

Absolutely awesome.
Not sure what I enjoyed most; the open road photographs, or the technical stuff.

I had the same thing happen to me, and refused to drive the car until it was fixed, just to avoid this shame...