henkinc

2010 997.2 S cab. Pads are getting a little low at 45k Miles. I don't drive it more than 2k per year but if I do replace the pads do I resurface the rotors? Replace them? Or leave them alone? Charlie

Wayne Smith

These are disposable items.

Drilled or slotted rotors do not behave well in a brake lathe. The chatter caused by the voids prevents a proper smoothing of the surface.

If there is enough material to last through the new pads you could let the new pads form into the old rotors. This is cheaping out, of course.

There will be some who will tell you to ante up and change pads and rotors as a set. I'm inclined feel the same.

platinum997

I go 2 pads per rotor as long as there in spec, no cracks, warps, etc..

With that said, it's cheap, easy and peace of mind. I would recommend replacing them.

MrMoose

Yeah, as long as the discs look good and aren't near min thickness spec (it's stamped on the disc and you can measure it with calipers) then I'll just replace pads without doing anything to the disc. Typically I also get two sets of pads out of a disc.

The German car makers are obsessed with changing discs and pads as a set, so if you want to go by the book that's the way to do it. But personally I've always been fine provided the disc is kept above min thickness.

BucketList

There are maintenance laws in Germany, hence the disc+pads.

I also usually get 2 pads per disc, however I remove the discs and put them in my lathe and grind off the shoulder on the outside edge. I will also replace them if there is significant grooving regardless of whether they were new at last pad swap.

linderpat

I’ve swapped track pads in and out with my street pads for many seasons without issues. My rotors last a long time. (Recently replaced them, but they were finally due). I always use fine grit emery paper and treat the surfaces every time I swap, in order to avoid pulsating and chatter. I’ve done this with all my cars. A little grooving does not hurt or affect performance. I think rotor replacement is often done when not needed.

nitin24

I have found that I can put new pads on old rotors and follow a good brake bedding process that I don’t have any issues. This is assuming the rotors are still in good shape.

I agree that rotor replacement is likely done too often

Petza914

Minimum rotor thickness is on the rotor - it's 2mm below the new thickness spec. If there is a decent lip at the edge of the rotor, replace them. If there's a small lip, get your digital caliper, and a couple of thicker washers. Put the washers below the lip on each side and measure the thickness of the rotor with the 2 washers, then measure the thickness of just the two washers and subtract that amount. This will tell you the actual thickness of thrle rotors at the pad running area and not factor in the lip that has formed. If at or below min thickness spec, replace them.

Don't turn a drilled rotor.

linderpat

yes, I forgot to mention that too - always bed the pads to the rotors properly, every time they are swapped out.