Preventative maintenance on early 997?
#1
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Hi everyone, I’ve recently purchased a 2005 997 6spd with about 40k miles. It runs well, has documented IMS done, new spark plugs, and new tires.
It has a good maintenance history of oil changes, brake fluid flush etc, but nothing else too major from what I have seen.
I’m wondering what kind of “preventative maintenance” I might want to do to make the car a daily driver? The sort of things which would need replaced due to age (17 years!) rather than mileage?
Should I plan to replace the bump stops?
How about belts or rubber pieces?
Manual transmission fluid?
Are there suspension components I should consider replacing due to age?
Thanks much for any ideas :-)
It has a good maintenance history of oil changes, brake fluid flush etc, but nothing else too major from what I have seen.
I’m wondering what kind of “preventative maintenance” I might want to do to make the car a daily driver? The sort of things which would need replaced due to age (17 years!) rather than mileage?
Should I plan to replace the bump stops?
How about belts or rubber pieces?
Manual transmission fluid?
Are there suspension components I should consider replacing due to age?
Thanks much for any ideas :-)
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DanielW (10-01-2021)
#3
Rennlist Member
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I bought a 2006 C4S about 2 months ago--here's a rundown of my 'start of ownership' list, so far. Some of these were to address broken things, but you can see the PM items in there. I may have been a be overzealous with changing all the fluids, but I'm starting from a known point on everything viscous on the car, which is a worthwhile investment for me.
- Steam cleaned all carpets
- Treated leather
- Disassembled rear seats completely, steam cleaned and cleaned carpets, seats, and all surfaces.
- Vacuumed top assembly area
- Replaced front turn signals/driving lights with LED assemblies--tested both
- Installed Rennspeed cell phone mount
- Replaced Driver's mirror glass (original broken) Installed interior LED kit
- Replaced cupholder trim
- Replaced engine compartment/luggage compartment switch
- Rebuilt subwoofer module with parts from good used unit.
- Replaced engine air filter and cleaned air box
- Replaced Cabin Air Filter
- Replaced foam on HVAC fresh air flap
- Vacuumed HVAC ducts/vents, etc
- Replaced wipers with OEM
- Replaced front luggage compartment trim
- Full exterior paint treatment--Wash, IronX treatment, Griots clay bar, Griots correcting cream, Griots finishing Cream
- New key programed, all other keys removed excpet 2 in possessin
- Replaced 4 tires
- Oil change, lube, and inspection
- Replaced spark plugs and ignition coils
- Flushed/replaced coolant
- Drained and filled power steering fluid
- Replaced transmission/rear differential fluid
- Replaced front differential fluid
- Flushed/replaced brake and hydraulic clutch fluid
- Replaced serpentine belt
- 4-wheel alignment
- Cleaned radiator ducts
- Replaced left outer CV boot
Last edited by sburke91; 09-29-2021 at 02:54 PM.
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DanielW (10-01-2021)
#5
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If it’s driving alright now and has recent service history, just drive and enjoy it. No point in throwing money after stuff that’s still working. When suspension parts start to wear you will either hear or feel it.
#6
RL Community Team
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If you don't know when the oil was changed or it was done close to 5,000 miles ago, do that.
Your water pump is going to fail in the next 5 miles to 15k miles. If you're a DIYer, buy one to have on hand for when it does. If you're not a DIYer, schedule it into your Indy in the next 5k miles to have that done at the same time replace the thermostat with the 160 degree lower temp version.
If the coil packs are the original thinner insulator ones and they weren't changed with the plugs, you're going to want tondo those too, but I'd the plugs were just done, wait until 60k miles and do new plugs and the coil packs then.
Check your brake pads and rotor thicknesses. The 911 is not like a regular car and because of the weight at the rear and the PSM system, the rear pads can actually wear at the same rate or faster than the fronts. Rotor minimum thicknesses are on the rotors and 2mm below the original thickness.
Yes, change the transmission fluid. Only use Mobillube PTX. It works the best and is socially formulate for these transmissions. It will eliminate the balky first gear shift when stopped and prevent trans wear so it stays like that. I did mine at about your mileage.
Enjoy the car!
Your water pump is going to fail in the next 5 miles to 15k miles. If you're a DIYer, buy one to have on hand for when it does. If you're not a DIYer, schedule it into your Indy in the next 5k miles to have that done at the same time replace the thermostat with the 160 degree lower temp version.
If the coil packs are the original thinner insulator ones and they weren't changed with the plugs, you're going to want tondo those too, but I'd the plugs were just done, wait until 60k miles and do new plugs and the coil packs then.
Check your brake pads and rotor thicknesses. The 911 is not like a regular car and because of the weight at the rear and the PSM system, the rear pads can actually wear at the same rate or faster than the fronts. Rotor minimum thicknesses are on the rotors and 2mm below the original thickness.
Yes, change the transmission fluid. Only use Mobillube PTX. It works the best and is socially formulate for these transmissions. It will eliminate the balky first gear shift when stopped and prevent trans wear so it stays like that. I did mine at about your mileage.
Enjoy the car!
#7
Instructor
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what power steering fluid did you use?