60k maintenance thoughts
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
60k maintenance thoughts
I drive a 05 C2S manual.
Please coach me through this. I will definitely have the oil and filter replaced. I will have the spark plugs replaced. I didn’t realize that they were due at 40k. I missed that. My clutch was replaced at 38k miles. Would you replace the gear oil and transmission fluid? I have a Fabspeed intake the filters still look good to me. What brake fluid should I use? I do not track however I do enjoy driving the car swiftly. Same though about the belt it was replaced within the past 20k miles. How about having the throttle body cleaned. I think that I read that also. Is this necessary?
thanks
Bailey
Please coach me through this. I will definitely have the oil and filter replaced. I will have the spark plugs replaced. I didn’t realize that they were due at 40k. I missed that. My clutch was replaced at 38k miles. Would you replace the gear oil and transmission fluid? I have a Fabspeed intake the filters still look good to me. What brake fluid should I use? I do not track however I do enjoy driving the car swiftly. Same though about the belt it was replaced within the past 20k miles. How about having the throttle body cleaned. I think that I read that also. Is this necessary?
thanks
Bailey
#2
Rennlist Member
According to the below link, the spark plugs for our cars should be replaced at 60k, not 40k miles. Drive belt at 60k, and transmission oil at 120k miles.
https://pictures.dealer.com/porscheo...c2a0d38397.pdf
https://pictures.dealer.com/porscheo...c2a0d38397.pdf
#3
Three Wheelin'
Check the strut bushings for deterioration ..40k for Gear oil is still good wait until at least 60k or 80k ..Water pump is a big one check for noise or play / leaks ..Many like to replace as a preventative ..personally im not one but I get the rationale. , Cabin filter ? Brake fluid for street use every few years ...I do mine every 4rys some swear by every 2yrs but every 4yrs has worked fine for me for decades. I wouldn't touch the throttle body but a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner with a full tank and a good drive is nice !!
Check the front end and make sure the cars water drains are clear , check the coolant reservoir for leaks or deterioration and drive her .....Oh and put some Liqui Moly Ceratec or M0s2 in with your oil change unless your are using Joe Gibbs oil ... Trust me on this - very important ! our engines need the additional Moly and it's good engine insurance for a few lousy bucks more . Sounds like then you are pretty much covered ...
Check the front end and make sure the cars water drains are clear , check the coolant reservoir for leaks or deterioration and drive her .....Oh and put some Liqui Moly Ceratec or M0s2 in with your oil change unless your are using Joe Gibbs oil ... Trust me on this - very important ! our engines need the additional Moly and it's good engine insurance for a few lousy bucks more . Sounds like then you are pretty much covered ...
#4
Rennlist Member
Consider the coils. They see alot of heat. I changed the trans oil at 50,000. Since gear oil sees no combustion unlike motor oil, it absolutely looked/smelled like new. But I felt better. Take a peek under the water pump for residue. I cleaned my own TB, yes it was dirty.
The following 2 users liked this post by Khloesdad:
Fullyield (06-20-2021),
rileyracing1 (06-20-2021)
#5
+1 on changing coils with plugs…..no extra labor and these cars eat coils due to location next to exhaust headers. My philosophy for lubricating fluids is “if in doubt, change it out” when it comes to my fluids and filters. If not already done, I would change every fluid and filter in the vehicle (oil, transmission/transaxle, brake fluid, etc.). I might wait on changing coolant until I replaced water pump/thermostat but would consider doing that also as a preventative measure. If you do it all at 60k, you now have a baseline.
The following 4 users liked this post by Fullyield:
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Do the coils, water pump, thermostat and coolant. The pump is going to fail within the next 1k-15k miles anyway if it's the original.
The following users liked this post:
Floyd540 (06-20-2021)
#7
Porsche not only makes recommendations with respect to mileage but also with respect to calendar time. Because many of us (including me) don't reach the mileage thresholds, we should instead revert to the calendar recommendations. Just my two cents.
The following users liked this post:
Liste-Renn (06-22-2021)
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Here is my list when the 997S hits 60K miles (and soon to hit the 120K miles)
Oil
Oil filter
Air filter
All three idle pulleys and accessory belt
Water pump
Thermostat and housing
Coolant change
Brake fluid change
Tiptronic fluid change (wife's car), and Trasaxle fluid change. And I certainly would change the manual gearbox fluid.
Spark plugs change
Coils (at 120K)
If you touch the hose clamps, change them ALL to the worm-type clamps that can be tightened with a wrench
Oil
Oil filter
Air filter
All three idle pulleys and accessory belt
Water pump
Thermostat and housing
Coolant change
Brake fluid change
Tiptronic fluid change (wife's car), and Trasaxle fluid change. And I certainly would change the manual gearbox fluid.
Spark plugs change
Coils (at 120K)
If you touch the hose clamps, change them ALL to the worm-type clamps that can be tightened with a wrench
#10
Rennlist Member
When, if you get into the water pump replacement, you may consider all the hoses back there. Theres only a few but again like the coils, they see a lot of heat. I replaced mine, even the small ones. A lot of piece of mind and relatively simple
job. If you do then toss on LN's 160 thermostat as well. Lastly I'd check closely the coolant tank. I know it seems like a lot of things to do, but if your mechanically inclined most can be done by you. Pete {Petza} here has probably among the most posts and is usually gives very valuable advice. I cant count the times he's save my a$$.
job. If you do then toss on LN's 160 thermostat as well. Lastly I'd check closely the coolant tank. I know it seems like a lot of things to do, but if your mechanically inclined most can be done by you. Pete {Petza} here has probably among the most posts and is usually gives very valuable advice. I cant count the times he's save my a$$.
Last edited by Khloesdad; 06-20-2021 at 12:41 PM.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have already replaced the water pump. Let’s talk brake fluid for a non tracked car. Should I buy what is recommended from Porsche or is there something different that I should be using?
#12
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I run Motul RBF600 in all my cars and they'r not tracked. After having a hanging caliper on my pickup that made one of the rear brakes so hot it boiled the normal fluid and I had virtually no pedal and almost hit the guy in front of me, the extra temperature capability for not a lot of additional cost is worth the peace of mind to me. I rennew it every year or two based on moisture content from an electronic moisture meter I dip into the reservoir to check it with.
#14
When I flushed mine, Motul RBF 600 was just a tad more costly than Pentosin so went with Motul.