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You are going to get a million replies, "advice" and opinions from those with good experience and from those with no idea.
First off, dealers don't do alignments (in many cass, they send them out). Alignment shops do alignment, that is want you want and put the saved money in your pocket. The specs for your car's alignment are widely available.
Second off, How many miles on the car?
I have a 2011 997.2 c2 MT also. I just went through this exercise myself. I do not see the interest or real benefit in coil-overs for your situation. The only adjustment you will ever make will be to set the height. If you were a dedicated track guy this info would not apply. Also remember that the whole suspension function relies on high quality components from the best suppliers in the business. That is why Porsche choose Eibach springs and Bilstein struts for your car. Going with cheaper and/or less developed products makes no sense ,especially since you are trying to make improvements. For the street guy, coil-overs is a fad in my opinion so you can say you have "coil-overs" (even if they are cheap and don't work so good, you still have bragging rights).
If you pick the right springs, you will have the proper drop that you desire. If your car has approx. 70,000 miles or more than the original struts will not be "bad" but may be starting to get a bit lazy.
Here is what I did (same exact car): 93,000 miles
Tech-art springs by Eibach
Bilstein B6 struts
Eibach sway bars with links F & R
The drop is perfect and has been noted my more than a few people at PCA cars & coffee events that the look is perfect. Also the Tech-art springs are progressive and provide a more compliant ride than the original stock suspension. The heavy duty damping nature of the B6 struts play well with the springs to give a compliant but firm and sporty ride. The sway bars make flatter turn ins since the springs are progressive wound. I think you would have to go to the top of the top of the line coil-overs and go through a big set up process to get anything equivalent . Again, if you are heavy tracking the car, different story, then spend the zillion bucks and go for it. My set up, all done at home, is terrific. Great stance, Much improved ride and handling.
As a note, you may read that B8 struts are for "lowered " cars. What you are doing is not lowering the car to the point of technical lowering. The B6 is perfect.
As to control arms, that would be based on inspection /miles on the car.
Others will disagree, however I have actually done this and it is the same car as yours. Install the parts yourself and go to a real alignment shop.
Enjoy!
Gonna take your advice, just ordered my B6s, hoping SharkWerks runs a memorial day sale.
Also, has anyone used something like this on their springs? Spring Isolators or Spring Insolator- I have been very surprised that the front springs sit directly on metal and there is no rubber in there. I bet Porsche designed it this way for a reason, just wondering.
Skube. the spring isolator you show is a tube to install onto the coil of the spring to cushion any impact of "coil bind" on full compression. The Tech-Art by Eibach springs have them already installed. As to the spring "sitting on metal" , the front spring does sit metal on metal at the bottom where it sits in the big pan. At the top of the spring under the top mount and bearing, there is a rubber ring/gasket. This rubber ring is part of your stock set up. Porsche has two thicknesses available for these rings . I believe the stock one is the thinner one. The option one will be a few milimeters thicker, thus raising the car by the same amount.
If you get tangled up, I have pics for all this stuff.
Have fun!
Skube. the spring isolator you show is a tube to install onto the coil of the spring to cushion any impact of "coil bind" on full compression. The Tech-Art by Eibach springs have them already installed. As to the spring "sitting on metal" , the front spring does sit metal on metal at the bottom where it sits in the big pan. At the top of the spring under the top mount and bearing, there is a rubber ring/gasket. This rubber ring is part of your stock set up. Porsche has two thicknesses available for these rings . I believe the stock one is the thinner one. The option one will be a few milimeters thicker, thus raising the car by the same amount.
If you get tangled up, I have pics for all this stuff.
Have fun!
Floyd, Thanks, my concern is the spring in the big pan, should it really be metal on metal?
The long answer is - YES. See pics (hopefully) This is what your front assembly will look like when you remove it. All stock OEM. New set up with Tech-art /Eibach springs & B6 struts with new top hats. Ready to swing in and bolt up.
My B6s showed up today, checked them all out, and one was very "wet" looks like hydraulic fluid from inside the strut, its not water, and area between the piston and body doesn't look damaged, rest of it doesn't look damaged, box looked fine. Thoughts...
I sent an email to Bilstein to see what they say, I have about 3-4 weeks before I can install as I am still waiting on other parts.
That seems odd. Yes ,contact them or call their service center in San Diego where they rebuild struts. Also, remember that the new struts comes with new bump stops, (visible on the rears, internal on the fronts), and new nuts. However you will need to keep your old small washers that fit onto the shaft before the top hats. I can't remember if they are used on the fronts and the backs, but they are small. Don't lose them when disassembling. Let us know.
That seems odd. Yes ,contact them or call their service center in San Diego where they rebuild struts. Also, remember that the new struts comes with new bump stops, (visible on the rears, internal on the fronts), and new nuts. However you will need to keep your old small washers that fit onto the shaft before the top hats. I can't remember if they are used on the fronts and the backs, but they are small. Don't lose them when disassembling. Let us know.
Thanks, I reached out to Bilstein directly, they got back to me very quickly, and their technical team said that this was a normal amount of fluid on the shock and to not be worried, I shared these pictures with them. They stated that it would be an issue if the box was soaked.
Thanks for the reminder, I checked out the new front B6s and saw that it is different and the lack of external bump stop.
This will be the second time I pull the suspension apart, I had to do it ~2+ years ago when I bought it to replace completely rotten bump stop, but I didn't have the money to replace struts/shocks & springs, but now going all in!
Looking for some help, I took it in for alignment and they cant get the rear right toe within spec (spec is 0.08 to 0.19) and the best they can do is 0.60... they can get the rear left in, and the front is good, but because of this the shop claims the steering wheel is off when they drive it. Thoughts?
I replaced all of the control arms, and put the Eibach lowering springs in, not sure why they cant get alignment in, it is a reputable shop that has experience with performance cars, not a "Mr Tire".
Simply speaking, you should not need "adjustable " rear toe link dogbone as the eccentric bolt should provide all the adjustment you need for the "mild " modifications you are making. I would look into the new control arm dog bone you installed. Is it OEM or aftermarket? Do you have your old one? There probably is a difference in center -to-center length (hopefully ) and that would be the culprit. I don't think the eccentric bolt and washers can be put on wrong, but maybe possible. In any event the mounting points are rigid to the wheel carrier and to the subframe, therefore the link is the wrong length or the adjusting eccentric bolt and washers is screwed up. Let us know
Simply speaking, you should not need "adjustable " rear toe link dogbone as the eccentric bolt should provide all the adjustment you need for the "mild " modifications you are making. I would look into the new control arm dog bone you installed. Is it OEM or aftermarket? Do you have your old one? There probably is a difference in center -to-center length (hopefully ) and that would be the culprit. I don't think the eccentric bolt and washers can be put on wrong, but maybe possible. In any event the mounting points are rigid to the wheel carrier and to the subframe, therefore the link is the wrong length or the adjusting eccentric bolt and washers is screwed up. Let us know
Completely agree, drop was minimal, using normal parts, I put Meyle control arms in, all brand new, and I bet it was an out of spec one. Shop wanted $750+ to figure it out, plus any replacement parts costs. I went ahead and bought Tarett adjustable arms for $400, would have been $81 for a new toe arm for the one side, but then I would have to gamble that the next one is in spec and pay for another alignment and risk a 3rd alignment. So I just went all in. But I will remove the one installed, and compare with the original and with the other side and see what I can measure out of it, not sure I will be able to tell.
In the end the adjustable ones are half the price of my Indy doing investigation to tell me to get adjustable ones. And I can install them in about 30 mins.
May contact the place I bought the arms and see what they can do for a refund on them, but it is a gamble.
Also had the car aligned about a year before I did the most recent work, it aligned fine, all in spec, and have and accident free car, so it should work...
Front Bump stop on OEM strut is same as strut "mount?"
Have hit pothole and replacing all control arms (and sway bar links etc. while in there) and importantly the right side strut mount which is the side that blew the tire and now has rattle/knock noise going over bumps. Assuming the noise on rhs is due to damaged "Strut mount" (my term) is this the same part as the front shock strut "bump stop?" Or need one look to possibly replace both the "stop" and the "Mount" .if they are different parts?
Thanks.
Charlie
2010 S Cab, 997.2, 45k miles, MT, garage queen
what do you all recommend for a .2 with PASM for suspension upgrades? The B6 wont work with PASM...
I've been looking at the Bilstein B12 kit. It's that or the B16s.
I'm still all OEM at 140K miles. I'm debating what else to change and possibly upgrade at the same time. The car remains amazingly tight but perhaps that's because I haven't noticed the gradual degradation.
With Pam's car being our long distance conveyance I have the option of adding NVH now.
05-17-2021, 07:45 PM
