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Absolutely have this done by a shop or someone who knows what they are doing.
Good advice by all.
I would ask the the shop to pull the oil filter cartridge and replace with new, with the car owner's knowledge. Ask the shop to cut the filter cartridge's ends off to inspect the pleats for debris.
Thank you, this is great to know how to actually test. so the theory would be if lots of debris then the oil was not changed enough.
I believe the reason for checking for debris in the oil is it’s an indicator of something failing in the engine more so than an indication of oil change intervals.
I believe the reason for checking for debris in the oil is it’s an indicator of something failing in the engine more so than an indication of oil change intervals.
I believe the reason for checking for debris in the oil is it’s an indicator of something failing in the engine more so than an indication of oil change intervals.
forgive my ignorance, failing as in literally wearing away and showing up as debris in the filter?
forgive my ignorance, failing as in literally wearing away and showing up as debris in the filter?
thanks again both of you.
Yes. For instance there was a recent post where a member found a few pieces of debris in the filter and he was trying to figure what it was to aid in determining what was failing internally with the engine. He knew the pieces were non-ferrous so that eliminates certain components. He then was trying to determine if it was non-ferrous metal or actually plastic/polymer, which could be a chain guide or something. I’m not that familiar with the intricacies of the engine, so hopefully someone with more experience can explain it better.
My UOA reports show no oil should be run beyond about 5k miles and I've seen the additive package in Mobil 1 break down to a much thinner viscosity in as little as 3k miles in my own 997. 10k miles is a ridiculous suggestion from a manufacturer of a high performance engine.
Driven DT40 5W/40 in the wife's normally aspirated 997 C2S and Driven FR50 5W/50 in the supercharged 997 3.8L for the increased film strength from the higher running temperatures due to the increased stresses from the forced induction.
Driven DT40 in the 650 HP DFI Cayenne Turbo S.
Driven DT50 in the 914 & 928s, and Malibu Wakeboard boat.
Wife's - these cover 5 years and 40k miles. Some of the DT40s were the older formulation and why the Moly level is lower, but you can see how the viscosity of the DT40 holds up better than the Motul with DT40 #s coming in between 67-71 (even at 7,800 miles on one change) and the Motul coming in at 65.5-66.3. With both oils starting as 5W/40, the lower hot viscosity of the Motul shows it's additive package is breaking down earlier and the oil is shearing to a thinner viscosity. This is likely because of the A40 Porsche approved additive package that has lower Zinc & Phosphorous levels and no Moly.
Mobil 1 was in the Cayenne when I bought it. Had been serviced recently but I changed it at 5,000 miles and you can see how poorly that compares to the DT40 I've been running since with higher wear metals, especially the Iron & Copper, and much lower viscosity. It will be getting it's next one in the next 2 weeks as I've just hit 5,000 miles again. I'm interested to see with this same mileage interval, but longer elapsed time if I see an uptick in the acidity of the sample from the extra 6 months. The car hadn't left the garage since August until we took it to TN this weekend.
Driven DT40 5W/40 in the wife's normally aspirated 997 C2S and Driven FR50 5W/50 in the supercharged 997 3.8L for the increased film strength from the higher running temperatures due to the increased stresses from the forced induction.
Driven DT40 in the 650 HP DFI Cayenne Turbo S.
Driven DT50 in the 914 & 928s, and Malibu Wakeboard boat.
Wife's - these cover 5 years and 40k miles. Some of the DT40s were the older formulation and why the Moly level is lower, but you can see how the viscosity of the DT40 holds up better than the Motul with DT40 #s coming in between 67-71 (even at 7,800 miles on one change) and the Motul coming in at 65.5-66.3. With both oils starting as 5W/40, the lower hot viscosity of the Motul shows it's additive package is breaking down earlier and the oil is shearing to a thinner viscosity. This is likely because of the A40 Porsche approved additive package that has lower Zinc & Phosphorous levels and no Moly.
Mobil 1 was in the Cayenne when I bought it. Had been serviced recently but I changed it at 5,000 miles and you can see how poorly that compares to the DT40 I've been running since with higher wear metals, especially the Iron & Copper, and much lower viscosity. It will be getting it's next one in the next 2 weeks as I've just hit 5,000 miles again. I'm interested to see with this same mileage interval, but longer elapsed time if I see an uptick in the acidity of the sample from the extra 6 months. The car hadn't left the garage since August until we took it to TN this weekend.
Wow.....that's a mouthful of data to sort through. But thank you. I'm due for an oil change so if you had my GTS what would you put in it? My guess would be what you put in your wife's C2S....Driven DT40 5W/40. Or would you adjust for the warmer temperatures in SW Florida compared to your SC location?
Wow.....that's a mouthful of data to sort through. But thank you. I'm due for an oil change so if you had my GTS what would you put in it? My guess would be what you put in your wife's C2S....Driven DT40 5W/40. Or would you adjust for the warmer temperatures in SW Florida compared to your SC location?
If you lived where it was cooler I'd use their DI40 which is a 0W/40 but being in South FL and having read the descriptions of how you drive the car where it's not below 2k rplm since you drive it In manual mode, then if say the DT40 should be great. If you see oil pressure numbers that are lower than you like, you could move to the FR50 5W/50 which is what I'm running in my silver car for the higher film strength, but I'd start with the DT40.
I got the PPI, DME, bore scope and compression leak test results.
The mechanic said there is some very minimal bore scoring but the compression/leak test all came out really good and the car only had over revs in 1 and 2 ranges.
Im wondering if this is a reason not to buy the car? Im waiting for the pictures my self.
If you lived where it was cooler I'd use their DI40 which is a 0W/40 but being in South FL and having read the descriptions of how you drive the car where it's not below 2k rplm since you drive it In manual mode, then if say the DT40 should be great. If you see oil pressure numbers that are lower than you like, you could move to the FR50 5W/50 which is what I'm running in my silver car for the higher film strength, but I'd start with the DT40.
If you lived where it was cooler I'd use their DI40 which is a 0W/40 but being in South FL and having read the descriptions of how you drive the car where it's not below 2k rplm since you drive it In manual mode, then if say the DT40 should be great. If you see oil pressure numbers that are lower than you like, you could move to the FR50 5W/50 which is what I'm running in my silver car for the higher film strength, but I'd start with the DT40.
do you have the UOA done on your car running the FR50? I'm considering changing from motul to driven oils and i live in an extremely hot climate and do drive the car hard once its warmed up. Maybe the FR50 might work well for me.
I got the PPI, DME, bore scope and compression leak test results.
The mechanic said there is some very minimal bore scoring but the compression/leak test all came out really good and the car only had over revs in 1 and 2 ranges.
Im wondering if this is a reason not to buy the car? Im waiting for the pictures my self.
Thanks!
Good question that I don't have a good answer to but I'm sure somebody else will take a stab at it. I'd be curious to know too. So once "minimal" bore scoring has been detected, what are the odds of it staying minimal vs. getting worse? I hope I'm wrong but maybe there's no good answer to this question since it seems like it would be based on an educated guess.
For what it's worth, I would personally pass on this car. My uneducated guess is that bore scoring once detected is a sign that something isn't in harmony between piston and cylinder in one or more cylinders and I can't think of a scenario where all of a sudden it would get better or just go away all by itself.
Good question that I don't have a good answer to but I'm sure somebody else will take a stab at it. I'd be curious to know too. So once "minimal" bore scoring has been detected, what are the odds of it staying minimal vs. getting worse? I hope I'm wrong but maybe there's no good answer to this question since it seems like it would be based on an educated guess.
For what it's worth, I would personally pass on this car. My uneducated guess is that bore scoring once detected is a sign that something isn't in harmony between piston and cylinder in one or more cylinders and I can't think of a scenario where all of a sudden it would get better or just go away all by itself.
I passed the below info plus all the DME output/screens to 2 local Porsche independents and both said 'there will be slight amounts of bore scoring on most engines, just so long as its not grooves' and things like 'drive and maintain this car and it will be fine'
The shop its at now has a record of .5 quarts low after 4k miles.
I could post the DME report if anyone is 'interested' ?
03-21-2021, 06:41 PM
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