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how old is the battery. Mine did the same thing with an older battery.
How do I tell the age of the battery? The label on the left hand sticker's top right corner says 2013 but I doubt that's accurate...? I don't notice any other electrical issues that would be indicative of a bad battery.
Uploaded a video of the low rpm hesitation. It's really bad, almost violent in 3rd and 4th gear when accelerating from 1200 rpm.
How do I tell the age of the battery? The label on the left hand sticker's top right corner says 2013 but I doubt that's accurate...? I don't notice any other electrical issues that would be indicative of a bad battery.
Uploaded a video of the low rpm hesitation. It's really bad, almost violent in 3rd and 4th gear when accelerating from 1200 rpm.
One other avenue to explore or consider is that, after seeing your video, I almost want to suggest that you may have a bad batch of fuel with some water in the system. I have experienced this a few times over the last 10 years and the car feels like a bucking bronco in the lower rpms and then seems ok 4500-7000 rpm as long as I was accelerating hard. It felt violent and like something was seriously wrong with the engine. A large bottle of Chevron Techron total fuel treatment and a fresh tank or 2 from a Chevron gas staion ( 91+ octane) cleared up all the hesitations. Just something to consider.
That battery looks like it could be from 2013 and 7 years old, but the contacts are nice and clean and if it's starting the car without any trouble, I doubt that's your issue.
Still seems like it's an intake tract or throttle problem. The next steps I would take are to find a buddy with a similar car and move some parts over one at a time, specifically the MAF and the throttle body. I would also smoke test the intake with a proper smoke machine to see if any of the corrugated plastic AOS lines are leaking.
Also, the car shouldn't do what it's doing, but you also shouldn't be giving it more than 50% throttle at 1,200 RPM which badly lugs the engine - you should be at least a gear higher in that situation so you're at least in the mid-2,000s when trying to accelerate like that.
One more thing to check is the coolant temperature sensor. The DME uses some information from this when adjusting engine parameters. Don't assume because the coolant temp reading on the gauge is straight up at 175 and looks perfectly normal that the actual data from the sensor to the DME looks like that - it doesn't and that dash gauge is very heavily buffered so it reads that number for about 45 degrees worth of range (165-210 F)
One other avenue to explore or consider is that, after seeing your video, I almost want to suggest that you may have a bad batch of fuel with some water in the system. I have experienced this a few times over the last 10 years and the car feels like a bucking bronco in the lower rpms and then seems ok 4500-7000 rpm as long as I was accelerating hard. It felt violent and like something was seriously wrong with the engine. A large bottle of Chevron Techron total fuel treatment and a fresh tank or 2 from a Chevron gas staion ( 91+ octane) cleared up all the hesitations. Just something to consider.
Yes, THIS too. I've had non-stabilized gas from Top Tier stations in my 997 go bad in as little as 2-3 months and create a dying feeling as you try to accelerate away from a light, very similar to what your video shows. It has actually done this twice in two different years over the winter months where I drive the car less. I have enough cars now where I never know how long it will take me to deplete a full tank of gas in one of them, so every fill up in these non-DD cars now gets either a proper dose of Stabil 360 or SeaFoam, depending on the car. I haven't had that problem reoccur since starting to do this in probably 3 years. Back when it happened, once that tank of fuel was used up and fresh gas put in, the problem completely went away.
One other avenue to explore or consider is that, after seeing your video, I almost want to suggest that you may have a bad batch of fuel with some water in the system. I have experienced this a few times over the last 10 years and the car feels like a bucking bronco in the lower rpms and then seems ok 4500-7000 rpm as long as I was accelerating hard. It felt violent and like something was seriously wrong with the engine. A large bottle of Chevron Techron total fuel treatment and a fresh tank or 2 from a Chevron gas staion ( 91+ octane) cleared up all the hesitations. Just something to consider.
Right when I got the car my mechanic replaced the spark plugs and dumped in a bottle of 44K fuel treatment. It had a quarter tank of gas at the time so I filled it up with Shell 91. I only drove 185 miles (12 gallons @ 15 mpg) before it dipped below quarter tank again, which was today. I just filled it back up with Shell 91 and filmed the hesitation video right after. So I highly doubt it's bad fuel.
Originally Posted by Petza914
That battery looks like it could be from 2013 and 7 years old, but the contacts are nice and clean and if it's starting the car without any trouble, I doubt that's your issue.
Still seems like it's an intake tract or throttle problem. The next steps I would take are to find a buddy with a similar car and move some parts over one at a time, specifically the MAF and the throttle body. I would also smoke test the intake with a proper smoke machine to see if any of the corrugated plastic AOS lines are leaking.
Also, the car shouldn't do what it's doing, but you also shouldn't be giving it more than 50% throttle at 1,200 RPM which badly lugs the engine - you should be at least a gear higher in that situation so you're at least in the mid-2,000s when trying to accelerate like that.
One more thing to check is the coolant temperature sensor. The DME uses some information from this when adjusting engine parameters. Don't assume because the coolant temp reading on the gauge is straight up at 175 and looks perfectly normal that the actual data from the sensor to the DME looks like that - it doesn't and that dash gauge is very heavily buffered so it reads that number for about 45 degrees worth of range (165-210 F)
I already ordered a new MAF which should be here this week. It's a total crapshoot considering the data doesn't indicate a MAF issue, but I'm just ticking the easy things off the list at this point.
You're right - I don't typically drive like this. I gave it 50% throttle at 1200 rpm just to demonstrate the hesitation in its worst state. But even when I drive normally I can feel the hesitation, just not as bad as the video shows.
Does your Cayman use the same MAF and throttle body. Might be able to do some swapping of parts and testing without having to wait?
According to Pelican Parts they use the same throttle body but different MAF. I'll give the throttle body swap a shot, good call! I highly doubt it's the issue though.
According to Pelican Parts they use the same throttle body but different MAF. I'll give the throttle body swap a shot, good call! I highly doubt it's the issue though.
I wouldn't replace the injectors just yet. It would be unusual for the injectors to go bad at the same time. If it was me, the first thing I would do is pull each spark plug, replace spark plugs, inspect the coils and make sure they . I would put fresh spark plugs in it for $37 found here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/porsche,2006,911,3.6l+h6,1431913,ignition,spark+plug,7212. I understand that they were recently replaced by someone other than yourself. That would be a good starting point and you would know they were installed correctly and not dropped. Also, I would switch Cylinder 4 and 3 coil with a different cylinder . Then drive and see if any changes come about.
Replacing the MAF is also a good idea since you already have one ordered. After that I would look at the O2 sensors.
I wouldn't replace the injectors just yet. It would be unusual for the injectors to go bad at the same time. If it was me, the first thing I would do is pull each spark plug, replace spark plugs, inspect the coils and make sure they . I would put fresh spark plugs in it for $37 found here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/porsche,2006,911,3.6l+h6,1431913,ignition,spark+plug,7212. I understand that they were recently replaced by someone other than yourself. That would be a good starting point and you would know they were installed correctly and not dropped. Also, I would switch Cylinder 4 and 3 coil with a different cylinder . Then drive and see if any changes come about.
Replacing the MAF is also a good idea since you already have one ordered. After that I would look at the O2 sensors.
The reason I doubt that spark plugs are the issue is because the misfire codes logged before the new plugs were installed (cyl 1/3/5) match the codes logged after. Although I did see codes for cylinders 2 and 6 the other day, 1/3/5 are usually the ones that pop up after a drive. Swapping coils 3 and 4 sounds a good idea if the new MAF doesn't do the trick.
Does my reasoning make sense here?
Originally Posted by The_Driveway
May also want to try cleaning your idle air control valve if you haven't already.
Where is the IACV on these cars? I thought only the cable throttle cars had one.
I think you have a good chance that the new MAF solves the issue. Those parts are finicky and errors are hard to spot, yet the
output goes directly into the car's CPU and can create havoc there. Hesitation at low revs with throttle application is almost guaranteed not to
be a spark-related issue, I think.
I think you have a good chance that the new MAF solves the issue. Those parts are finicky and errors are hard to spot, yet the
output goes directly into the car's CPU and can create havoc there. Hesitation at low revs with throttle application is almost guaranteed not to
be a spark-related issue, I think.
I really hope you're right. I'm also doubtful it's spark-related because the engine pulls like a train above 3500 rpm. Feels noticeably quicker than my Cayman S and just as smooth-revving. All the issues occur between idle and 2000 rpm.
The reason I doubt that spark plugs are the issue is because the misfire codes logged before the new plugs were installed (cyl 1/3/5) match the codes logged after. Although I did see codes for cylinders 2 and 6 the other day, 1/3/5 are usually the ones that pop up after a drive. Swapping coils 3 and 4 sounds a good idea if the new MAF doesn't do the trick.
Does my reasoning make sense here?
Where is the IACV on these cars? I thought only the cable throttle cars had one.
You've got misfires on both banks. If you used correct Bosch plugs and Bosch or Beru coils, and not some knock-off Amazon versions, your issue is likely not either of those.
Worth trying this. <$30 for the brake light switch. Fixed my problem which worsened just before I replaced the switch and was starting to happen in higher gears and varying rpm. Push on gas- plugs stop firing, car lurched as if completely dead.
You've got misfires on both banks. If you used correct Bosch plugs and Bosch or Beru coils, and not some knock-off Amazon versions, your issue is likely not either of those.
Yup - Beru coil packs (< 2 years old) and brand new Bosch plugs
Originally Posted by Bart Poladsky
Worth trying this. <$30 for the brake light switch. Fixed my problem which worsened just before I replaced the switch and was starting to happen in higher gears and varying rpm. Push on gas- plugs stop firing, car lurched as if completely dead.
My symptoms sound a bit different but I could be wrong. I don't notice a "dead pedal" at all. The engine still responds to my throttle inputs but it misfires. When you had this issue did you log any misfires or CEL?
11-18-2020, 02:54 AM
