f911

The hesitation in my first and second gear (Tip s) between 1500RPM and 2500RPM is still there ..

rick500

Just my 02cents here... I have been reading around on various forums and the conclusion I have come to is that the 'hesitation' plus in my case, engine actually died... is most always related to low RPM at starting out in 1st or a low RPM shift to second gear. Some have referred to this as a by product of the 997.01's DME's 'demand' factor. In other words, the DME may be programmed to fill the fuel rail with just enough fuel to meet the 'demand' requirements?
And so if the 'demand' is based in part to throttle position & RPM, e.g., a soft start, rolling out of 1st gear @ less than 1500-2000 rpm. And then deciding, Oh, I'd better drive this like a sports car and not a training vehicle, then perhaps the fuel rail has insufficient fuel for the next demand??? And thus hesitation...

Personally this makes sense to me because all of my hesitation events can be related to 'whimp' starts! lastly, the previous owner stressed not to shift under 4500 rpm! Since I have been doing faster starts in first and shifting accordingly, no hesitations have occurred. Not exactly the way I want to treat clutch longivity but does make a bit of sense...

f911

lowbee

Try doing a throttle reset procedure .... I posted the sequence in some thread, just do a search and you will find it.

f911

Thanks Bro. Unfortunately it does not work..
(I hope I did the reset right. 60 half turn left, 5 seconds off (turn right key) and 15 seconds half turn left.)

TV911

My 2006 C2 Cabriolet suffered from this issue. I finally realized that it was more than just a hesitation, it was a completely unresponsive accelerator pedal whenever it happened (usually starting out in 1st or 2nd gear). I could push the gas pedal in and out, and get no change in response (just continuing to idle down the road with the clutch out). So instead of searching the Rennlist forums for "hesitation", I searched for "dead pedal", and found this thread... https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-s-this-2.html

I just replaced the brake and clutch limit switches this weekend, and I took a short drive to check that everything works. So far, so good. The issue wasn't happening constantly... sometimes several times in a drive, sometimes not at all. So I won't know definitively if the problem is solved unless the problem reoccurs, but if it does reoccur I'll report back here. If you don't see an update, assume all is well. These switches are cheap enough, and although the space is tight, they're not too difficult to replace.

This YouTube video (from somewhere in Asia) shows the procedure... You twist the switch 1/4 turn to remove it from the bracket. It's a bit of a bear to get the new one back in, as you have to press the pedal as you push the switch against the bracket and then twist into place. Wear leather gloves to get a good grip on the square switch body without hurting your hands.

These are the parts for my 2006 997.1...
Clutch Pedal Cruise Control Cancel Switch (Red/Black) Part #: 996-613-114-01-M100 $23.25

Brake Light Switch at Pedal (Brown/Black) Part #: 996-613-113-02-M100 $23.25

I also ordered this part, but I suspect that it isn't involved (appears to signal when the clutch is fully depressed, where the other 2 switches indicate when those pedals are not depressed)
Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch Part #: 997-613-109-50-M100 $39.25

Bart Poladsky

Has this fix worked? Just purchased a 2005 997.1 C2 cab 6M and your description of the hesitation matches my experience.

Bart Poladsky

After I posted my question as to whether the fix worked, I see that TV911 said if he did not reply back the fix worked.

I replaced :
Clutch Pedal Cruise Control Cancel Switch (Red/Black) Part #: 996-613-114-01-M100
Brake Light Switch at Pedal (Brown/Black)Part #: 996-613-113-02-M100

I can confirm that it has worked for me.

TV911

Yes. Sorry... it worked perfectly. No issues after that.

tinroof

TV911's brake pedal and clutch pedal switch solution has worked for me.

TV911

I just passed along the tip. It traveled from one thread to the next. I can trace it all the way back to this thread, from Rennlister stevecolletti. That's the beauty of owning a Porsche... other owners willing to share their insights on Rennlist. It's a lifesaver.

By the way, as I traced the history of this tip back several threads I just noticed that ajayabb posted here "Turns out my problem was a bad wheel speed sensor on the front driver's side wheel that was triggering the cut in my throttle. Others have had similar symptoms due to a faulty brake sensor. Bottom line is with a drive by wire system, any of a number of sensors can trigger a cut in the throttle as if the car is in a spin or braking. Hope this helps some folks in the future". That might be Zygrene's problem, if the AOS leak doesn't resolve it.