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I’m installing MCS 2-ways on my 997.1 C2S. I’m running into some clearance issues when sliding the camber plates up front. The middle rod hits against the frame up top when moving the plates to dial in more negative camber.
I’m thinking of taking an angle grinder to the frame area to shave off a bit more space (see green arc in the above photo). Has anyone done something like this? Is it a terrible idea? Good idea? Will it compromise the rigidity of the frame?
If using the Tarett monoballs top mounts on a C2S with one of the camber setups (can't remember whether it's the more aggressive or less aggressive set of holes) there's a bump on the metal top plate that has to be ground off or it hits the fender wall. If I'm remembering correctly from years ago when I installed mine, yiu use the 3 circled holes and cut the plate off where that bump is lined off. I believe they fit if you use the other 3 holes, but then you're locked into a very aggressive camber setup.
If using the Tarett monoballs top mounts on a C2S with one of the camber setups (can't remember whether it's the more aggressive or less aggressive set of holes) there's a bump on the metal top plate that has to be ground off or it hits the fender wall. If I'm remembering correctly from years ago when I installed mine, yiu use the 3 circled holes and cut the plate off where that bump is lined off. I believe they fit if you use the other 3 holes, but then you're locked into a very aggressive camber setup.
Gotcha. I want to be locked into the aggressive camber setup. So hopefully things should just work. But I'll keep that in mind if I end up switching them around in the future.
I just did tarett monoballs with Ohlins Road and Track coilovers. I have the monoballs set in the high camber orientation, and I have full use of the factory slotted holes wtihout the strut tops or anything else hitting the body. But the top of your MCS coilovers look different from my Ohlins. Mine don't stick up that far. I wouldn't be inclined to hack up the car..... that can't be undone. Unless it is a race car only? If it were my car, I would simply run GT3 LCAs and use the shims to get the camber you need, then use the monoball mounts to fine-tune camber side to side as-needed, understanding you won't be able to use the full range of motion up there.
I just did tarett monoballs with Ohlins Road and Track coilovers. I have the monoballs set in the high camber orientation, and I have full use of the factory slotted holes wtihout the strut tops or anything else hitting the body. But the top of your MCS coilovers look different from my Ohlins. Mine don't stick up that far. I wouldn't be inclined to hack up the car..... that can't be undone. Unless it is a race car only? If it were my car, I would simply run GT3 LCAs and use the shims to get the camber you need, then use the monoball mounts to fine-tune camber side to side as-needed, understanding you won't be able to use the full range of motion up there.
Nice. How do you like your ohlins?
I think ima just go for cutting the hole to be a touch bigger. I am also swapping in GT3 LCAs during the install, but I’d rather get as much camber up top as possible since it perturbs the alignment less than the shims.
I think ima just go for cutting the hole to be a touch bigger. I am also swapping in GT3 LCAs during the install, but I’d rather get as much camber up top as possible since it perturbs the alignment less than the shims.
They are stiffer than I expected. Most likely due to the high spring rates Ohlins specs out for the 997. I've ridden in other cars with Ohlins R&Ts on them (not Porsches) and I felt the ride was better than OEM in terms of absorbing all sizes of bumps, especially large ones, gracefully and without feeling harsh. The R&Ts are a bit harsh for the street on the 997 but they are ok and will be fantastic on the track.
If using the Tarett monoballs top mounts on a C2S with one of the camber setups (can't remember whether it's the more aggressive or less aggressive set of holes) there's a bump on the metal top plate that has to be ground off or it hits the fender wall. If I'm remembering correctly from years ago when I installed mine, yiu use the 3 circled holes and cut the plate off where that bump is lined off. I believe they fit if you use the other 3 holes, but then you're locked into a very aggressive camber setup.
We changed the design almost two years ago, and this mod is no longer needed.
Are you sure that mod is correct? This is what we've done in the past. Also note that is is only needed to run in the low camber configuration.
I'll have to stick my phone under the fender to verify, but that what I remember the alignment shop having to do, and you're correct, it was only needed when using the low camber set of holes.
I'll have to stick my phone under the fender to verify, but that what I remember the alignment shop having to do, and you're correct, it was only needed when using the low camber set of holes.
As you suspected, I remembered it wrong. Here's a pic that shows the corner needing to be trimmed as you showed, but I didn't have to trim quite as much. The hump I talked about is pretty close in another area though.
@saamyjoon just out of potential concern for safety (& I'm sure others can comment also):
I would be worried about the change in stress distribution due to the cut out, particularly in the areas shown below.
Perhaps some reinforcement could be beneficial.
@saamyjoon just out of potential concern for safety (& I'm sure others can comment also):
I would be worried about the change in stress distribution due to the cut out, particularly in the areas shown below.
Perhaps some reinforcement could be beneficial.
Yeah, it might be worth welding something across that area.
09-07-2020, 05:39 PM
Top of Front Damper Clearance
