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I'm coming up on my first oil change on my recently purchased 997.2, and I would like to know if it is common practice to fill the canister with oil when changing the element.
On my cars with screw on filters, if it was vertically mounted with the open end on top, I would fill it with oil prior to screwing it on. I have read that a lot of engine wear occurs during the first few seconds when oil and filters are changed and there is no or low oil pressure until the filter fills up.
I like to do it. I actually forgot to fill the filter Friday when I did my oil change, and got the warning "oil pressure too low"... probably while the filter filled. Soooooooo I won't make that mistake again.
Cw
****i should note, I have a 7.1, with spin on, but either way, I like to fill before hand.****
That 997.2 9A1 top canister is basically empty by the time you pull the filter. This implies that anything you pour in there is going to gravity feed to the bottom of the motor anyway.
It also implies that the canister is empty anytime you start the car.
Oil develops a film. The film holds up for a long long time. The start up wear is because the cold parts aren't fitting together the same way as when they are warm.
If you're super worried run some oil over the paper element (saturate it) before installing it. But given the flow rate this really won't make any difference.
Lubricate the canister's o-ring at the same time.
Measure oil level before draining. Measure oil out. Add oil back in aiming to have just the lower full bar on the level gauge lit. Add oil gradually if you want to run higher, although I recommend you don't (run higher).
That 997.2 9A1 top canister is basically empty by the time you pull the filter. This implies that anything you pour in there is going to gravity feed to the bottom of the motor anyway.
It also implies that the canister is empty anytime you start the car.
Oil develops a film. The film holds up for a long long time. The start up wear is because the cold parts aren't fitting together the same way as when they are warm.
If you're super worried run some oil over the paper element (saturate it) before installing it. But given the flow rate this really won't make any difference.
Lubricate the canister's o-ring at the same time.
Measure oil level before draining. Measure oil out. Add oil back in aiming to have just the lower full bar on the level gauge lit. Add oil gradually if you want to run higher, although I recommend you don't (run higher).
I agree! I never saw a low oil pressure upon starting the engine immediately after an oil change.
I agree! I never saw a low oil pressure upon starting the engine immediately after an oil change.
Of course, to be fair, the 997.1 motors could behave differently and with an under mounted filter it IS a good idea to prefill the filter if possible to do without spilling oil everywhere during assembly. That just isn't a workable option on the 997.2.
FWIW the oiling system on the 997.2 is significantly different than the 997.1. And from what I know the pressure sensor is in front of the filter so that it would activate quickly on start up.
Yea, no way to do this on the DFI motors, not on the 997.2 or my DFI Cayennes (957 generation and newer).
On my 997. 1 and any car I have with a bottom mount spin on filter, I do it and it prevents the low oil pressure warning from coming on with the first start after the oil change..
First, congrats on your new to you purchase of your 997.2 Are you coming from a 1985 911? (hint form user name). I came from a type 540 to my 997.2. Listen to Wayne, the oil filter for your car is self draining and no use in prefilling it because you can't.
A fun fact for your car is that at least with the German oil bottles with the pull out pouring spot , i.e Liqui-Moly, the bottle fits perfectly in the pull out filler tube on the engine. No funnel needed. No drips, spills and no mess. But be careful as some reports that the telescoping tube can be a little tender. Many of these were replaced under warranty.
A hint on using this 997 forum. the car in total is pretty much the same for 997.1 and 997.2. However when it comes to the engine, they are completely different animals. Anything that applies to one engine M96,M97 does not apply to the other one such as your 9A1. A lot of post do not differentiate this and it is a big deal on engine discussions.
My opinion
When you go to sell your car, if you have a good history of UOA, your buyer will buy with confidence and zero hesitation. Also I recommend Driven DT40 but oil is always a controversial subject.
When you go to sell your car, if you have a good history of UOA, your buyer will buy with confidence and zero hesitation. Also I recommend Driven DT40 but oil is always a controversial subject.
Controversial?!?!?! If you're headed toward DT40 but you have a 997.2 9A1 motor with DFI you should look at DI40 to minimize LSPI.
All: Thanks for the replies. I still have the '85. My wife and I love to go for rides in the countryside and we always smile at each other when we ask "Which car should we take?" Actually, she bought me the '85 about 5 years ago as a complete surprise.
Good tip on the engine difference between a .1 and .2. You mention I have a 9A1 engine. I thought I have a MA101 engine.
Good information on the oil change. I have not heard of Driven DT40 nor Liqui-Moly.. I see the DT40 labeled as a Joe Gibbs street performance oil. I plan on using Mobil 1 0W or 5W-40. Also, I do plan on having the oil analyzed. I will be asking for help interpreting the results when the time comes.
UOI? _________ Oil Analysis?
I've also not heard of DI40 and I would like to know what LSPI is?
Again, thanks to all.
And, one more thing. Over on the PP air cooled forum, everybody talks about carrying a fire extinguisher. I do with my "85 Carrera. In fact, I already had a fire in the fresh air blower. How about the 997.2? Anybody suggest it's necessary? I'm not talking about at the track, but for everyday driving.
Talk to Mr. Navarro. He personally recommends DT40 for the 997.2
Like I said ... Controversial!!!!!
"Used" oil analysis.
The standard 997.2 cars were all 9A1 engines. The 2009 997.2 Turbo stayed with the Mezger but went to the 9A1 in 2010.
All 9A1 motors were DFI (direct fuel injection).
LSPI is a common concern in DFI motors due to fuel spray hitting the cylinder walls ... Low speed pre-ignition. The DI formula is specifically intended to reduce LSPI.
This spray can also wash the oil off of the cylinder wall leading to other concerns.
I've used Mobil One 0-40 European Blend for the 100K miles and the 21 oil changes I've done during my stewardship. Oil is a personal decision and there are many smart people here with varied opinions.
Post your UOA and you will get feedback. The major concerns are metal wear, viscosity break down, and loss of the additive components. The additives are the main difference between oils and the basis of endorsing one oil over another.
Lots to learn here from some very knowledgeable people 8)
I had been using Mobil 1 0w40 and recently switched over to Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40. (Did a transition oil change with Driven BR30 after draining the Mobil 1 - drove the car for @100 miles, drained it and went with the Motul.)
I will never go back to Mobil 1. Car runs so much better with the Motul. And significantly less soot. (.2 C2S)
Love the black exterior with red interior and sport seats. I think it might look even better if you break up some of the red a bit with some black and some carbon fiber accent pieces. I'd do black floor mats, a Carbon center console, some door trim, the sport chrono pod the cup holder and continuing line across the dash.
This is a very good thread on UOA with a lot of different oil type and mileage interval data.
Though my Cayenne Turbo is DFI I use Driven DT40 in it so I have fewer oils to keep on hand as I also use it in my wife's 997.1. I've just moved my supercharged RUF 997 to Driven FR50 which is a similar formulation to the DT40, but in a 5W/50 weight as I live in SC where it's warm and want some additional film strength at high temperatures and higher loads.
A fire extinguisher is always a good idea. Probabky not as necessary as in those older Porsches with older fuel and power steering lines. I have one in my 914, 928, and 997, but not in my Cayenne, pick up, or wife's 997. Honestly, for all but the smallest fire, I think I'd rather take the Agreed Value insurance payout than deal with redoing the car. I carry the fire extinguisher to be able to slow things down enough to get people and valuables (PCs, firearms, etc) out before the major burn.
07-04-2020, 05:45 PM
Changing Oil
