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Old 07-06-2020, 03:50 PM
  #16  
Floyd540
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Listening to Wayne is always a good idea. Now for a little more info, the engine number listed on the sticker that is affixed (hopefully) to your owners manual-maintenance booklet will be a "MA10X-----. The X being different for 3.6 and 3.8 engine. Cleaverly enough the MA101 or MA102 means it is a 9A1 engine! Ya just got to accept some of this stuff. The DFI engine introduced in the 997.2 car is a 9A1 series engine and shares essentially nothing with the 997.1 cars. Turbos are also different,
I hate to talk about oils on these car forums because of the heightened emotional response and many times coupled a total lack of knowledge or understanding of chemistry and lubrication dynamics. However since Wayne may provide some air cover , I will say a few things on this subject. ( yes I do have the technical background in this, I just like to hide it). In todays world any approved synthetic oil is infinitely better than a top brand oil of 10 or 20 years ago. Oil is now somewhat like beer in that use the one you like. Use it correctly and it will provide desired results. Everyone has a favorite brand of beer and oil and that's about all they know about it. The comments on oil usually go to " I use Dino sludge and Never had a problem". Not much of an analysis in my book. Comments on best beer go about the same way. For an oil, use a recommended one and of the correct grade- viscosity. And please, please please do not call it "weight" , there is no such thing. W stands for winter for multivis oils. I use Liqu- Moly in my german cars and I have my reasons but probably they are just opinions. A fun fact is my 92,000 mile 997.2 that I bought last year @ 88,000 miles had been serviced by Mobil1 0W40 (Walmart, variety, not European formula) and changed every 5,000 miles with filter. I had an oil analysis done by Blackstone when I changed it myself with 7,000 miles on it and the analysis was a glowing excellent report - You have set a very high bar with this engine compared to the group we analyze even with the 7,000 mile interval over the typical 4,500 miles we see. " Here is an example, I am not so much a fan of American formula Mobil 1 , but it has provided outstanding results and ridiculously low wear metals on my 9A1 aka MA 102 engine.
I know Lake from Driven , he also hates the word "weight" when referring to oil.
Air cover please, we are just trying to help a 911 car guy. Now as to the best beer......
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Old 07-06-2020, 04:19 PM
  #17  
Petza914
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Originally Posted by Floyd540
Listening to Wayne is always a good idea. Now for a little more info, the engine number listed on the sticker that is affixed (hopefully) to your owners manual-maintenance booklet will be a "MA10X-----. The X being different for 3.6 and 3.8 engine. Cleaverly enough the MA101 or MA102 means it is a 9A1 engine! Ya just got to accept some of this stuff. The DFI engine introduced in the 997.2 car is a 9A1 series engine and shares essentially nothing with the 997.1 cars. Turbos are also different,
I hate to talk about oils on these car forums because of the heightened emotional response and many times coupled a total lack of knowledge or understanding of chemistry and lubrication dynamics. However since Wayne may provide some air cover , I will say a few things on this subject. ( yes I do have the technical background in this, I just like to hide it). In todays world any approved synthetic oil is infinitely better than a top brand oil of 10 or 20 years ago. Oil is now somewhat like beer in that use the one you like. Use it correctly and it will provide desired results. Everyone has a favorite brand of beer and oil and that's about all they know about it. The comments on oil usually go to " I use Dino sludge and Never had a problem". Not much of an analysis in my book. Comments on best beer go about the same way. For an oil, use a recommended one and of the correct grade- viscosity. And please, please please do not call it "weight" , there is no such thing. W stands for winter for multivis oils. I use Liqu- Moly in my german cars and I have my reasons but probably they are just opinions. A fun fact is my 92,000 mile 997.2 that I bought last year @ 88,000 miles had been serviced by Mobil1 0W40 (Walmart, variety, not European formula) and changed every 5,000 miles with filter. I had an oil analysis done by Blackstone when I changed it myself with 7,000 miles on it and the analysis was a glowing excellent report - You have set a very high bar with this engine compared to the group we analyze even with the 7,000 mile interval over the typical 4,500 miles we see. " Here is an example, I am not so much a fan of American formula Mobil 1 , but it has provided outstanding results and ridiculously low wear metals on my 9A1 aka MA 102 engine.
I know Lake from Driven , he also hates the word "weight" when referring to oil.
Air cover please, we are just trying to help a 911 car guy. Now as to the best beer......
I'd like the see the 7,000 mile M1 0W/40 UOA report if you would post it up.

Also, Lake is no longer with Driven Oils.
Old 07-06-2020, 05:13 PM
  #18  
Ironman88
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Originally Posted by Floyd540
Listening to Wayne is always a good idea. Now for a little more info, the engine number listed on the sticker that is affixed (hopefully) to your owners manual-maintenance booklet will be a "MA10X-----. The X being different for 3.6 and 3.8 engine. Cleaverly enough the MA101 or MA102 means it is a 9A1 engine! Ya just got to accept some of this stuff. The DFI engine introduced in the 997.2 car is a 9A1 series engine and shares essentially nothing with the 997.1 cars. Turbos are also different,
I hate to talk about oils on these car forums because of the heightened emotional response and many times coupled a total lack of knowledge or understanding of chemistry and lubrication dynamics. However since Wayne may provide some air cover , I will say a few things on this subject. ( yes I do have the technical background in this, I just like to hide it). In todays world any approved synthetic oil is infinitely better than a top brand oil of 10 or 20 years ago. Oil is now somewhat like beer in that use the one you like. Use it correctly and it will provide desired results. Everyone has a favorite brand of beer and oil and that's about all they know about it. The comments on oil usually go to " I use Dino sludge and Never had a problem". Not much of an analysis in my book. Comments on best beer go about the same way. For an oil, use a recommended one and of the correct grade- viscosity. And please, please please do not call it "weight" , there is no such thing. W stands for winter for multivis oils. I use Liqu- Moly in my german cars and I have my reasons but probably they are just opinions. A fun fact is my 92,000 mile 997.2 that I bought last year @ 88,000 miles had been serviced by Mobil1 0W40 (Walmart, variety, not European formula) and changed every 5,000 miles with filter. I had an oil analysis done by Blackstone when I changed it myself with 7,000 miles on it and the analysis was a glowing excellent report - You have set a very high bar with this engine compared to the group we analyze even with the 7,000 mile interval over the typical 4,500 miles we see. " Here is an example, I am not so much a fan of American formula Mobil 1 , but it has provided outstanding results and ridiculously low wear metals on my 9A1 aka MA 102 engine.
I know Lake from Driven , he also hates the word "weight" when referring to oil.
Air cover please, we are just trying to help a 911 car guy. Now as to the best beer......
I certainly won't enter into a debate with anyone regarding motor oil. Now when it comes to beer on the other hand - I think there's some words to be had on that!

(Mobil 1 does suck though.)

Old 07-06-2020, 07:11 PM
  #19  
Wayne Smith
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I mostly carry a fire extinguisher these days for other cars I might come across and for safety. As Pete says, even superficial damage from a fire makes a replacement car perhaps more attractive.
Old 07-06-2020, 10:44 PM
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Floyd540
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Wayne, I have the Blackstone report for "Schwarzie" my basalt black 997.2 as noted in the post above. This is my first attempt at posting attachments so hang on,

That part worked although giant in size! For the metals, aluminum is 25% less than the population and iron is about 11 % As to the previous info, Mobil 1 0W40 arerican Walmart type. 7,000 interval. I have my opinions on this but I will leave them for the beer discussion with ironman. Although not my favorite oil, Schwarzie sure seems to like it and that is what counts.
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:49 PM
  #21  
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That's actually a great report for Mobil 1. On your next report, if you plan to run a similar mileage interval, pay the extra $10 for the TAN & TBN to see how acicic the oil has become.
Old 07-07-2020, 01:41 AM
  #22  
Wayne Smith
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I'll echo what Pete just said but without the snarky comment about Mobil One!!!!!!!!!!!

Mobil One 0-40 from Wal-Mart is Euro blend. You can order it on line (with free shipping) for less than it costs in the store. I order 6 five quart jugs at a time since it is what Mercedes recommends for Pam's car as well.

You can also order non Porsche filters on line for about one quarter of what the dealer charges.

If you want official Porsche filters I have found Sonnen on line to be less than elsewhere. Their on line prices are less than over the counter. I order those in batches of six.

When I did my brakes I ordered all parts from Sonnen on line but specified Will Call to avoid the shipping costs ... They are a few miles from my house.

I would go to 5K change intervals if it were me. But the TAN TBN readings will give you better data for that decision.
Old 07-07-2020, 05:13 PM
  #23  
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Yes to a fire extinguisher. I have one in all of my vehicles. Get a halon or halton extinguisher. Dry-chem extinguishers make a terrible mess if you ever have to use one and hope to keep the car afterwards.

If the fire is tiny, put it out. If it isn't tiny, let it burn and put your insurance to work for you. Fires are a nasty mess and what seems like a minor one can ruin a car.
Old 07-07-2020, 05:23 PM
  #24  
Floyd540
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Wayne, we now know how to wind you up. Seriously , I typically change oil once a year which here in California is only one season , or approx. 5,000 miles and always by 7,000 miles. On my car above, "Schwarzie" it had oil service every 5,000 miles by previous owner. He did his own work. Never added one drop of oil in the entire service life. Good car, bought it here on RL. It was about due for the 5,000 miles when I bought it and we were at 7,000 miles in no time. No real concern of mine as the new LL (long life) oils have more stable and better additive packages than before. Interesting point , You are not going to like this, is I changed over from the perfect performing Mobil 1 0W40 to Liqui-Moly 5W40 which I use in my BMW Z4 and VW Eurovan. How is that for an irrational move for a tech guy? The move from 0W (winter) to 5W is the fact that I never drive in cold weather and there is no need for more viscosity indexer when you don't need it. .
What has your findings been on studying oil results as far the acid/base levels-changes based on time- mileage in these engines.? I know that diesels and industrial equipment with petroleum based lubes with long calendar time drain cycles and Sulphur bearing fuels are a major concern. I just don't have much info on synthetic feedstocks and high quality gasoline fuels with fairly short drain cycles.
On topic, off subject- Does you 5 qt Mobil 1 bottles have the pull out spout /funnel like those" inferior" brands like Liqui-Moly.? They fit so perfect in the 997 oil filler even using the 5 L jugs.
Fun discussion, thanks.
Old 07-07-2020, 05:44 PM
  #25  
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Here is the compiled UOA report that one member put together a while back.
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