Choosing a Lithium battery.
#1
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So I'm considering a lithium battery in the near future. Ive seen Antigravity ads in Excellence mag. The 2 choices for my car are: https://antigravitybatteries.com/?ma...ion=vpf-search
I have no clue which battery my car needs. In the case of batteries, is more always better?
I have no clue which battery my car needs. In the case of batteries, is more always better?
#2
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I always used Die Hard AGM in the good cars, they redesigned the whole line a few years ago and that was on of the top ones to buy. It was like a 5 year pro-rated warranty too. I see the racing batteries and stuff, but at the rate the cars eat them it would be nice for a quick local exchange. I ain't shipping a battery back if it fails under warranty. I'm not hauling it to the post office and waiting. In my f150 I get the Walmart ones. The cheapest with a 5 year warranty and I can exchange it anywhere if it dies.
I'd take the extra 200 or 250 you saved and buy something in addition to a good battery. Unless you need some crazy cold cranking rating, a battery just kind of does it's job or it doesn't.
I'd take the extra 200 or 250 you saved and buy something in addition to a good battery. Unless you need some crazy cold cranking rating, a battery just kind of does it's job or it doesn't.
#3
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I ordered an Anti gravity battery but they emailed back telling me they we’re back ordered. I asked for a refund and they kindly refunded my payment. To tell you the truth I was relieved as $800 for battery is a lot of coin.
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#5
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and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
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#6
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There's "a lot of coin" for a battery,
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
#7
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I just bought a 60aH Antigravity battery. It dropped 40 pounds from the (non factory) battery that was in there. I can jump start it from a remote, and I can monitor it from my phone. I don't know how you can beat 13+ cranking volts and the state of charge offered by a lithium. It's like having two batteries in your vehicle.
I am all for it after installing one. I will be converting my overland vehicles.
I am all for it after installing one. I will be converting my overland vehicles.
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#8
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I run lithium battery in my race bike, as every pound counts. And 40lbs is a lot of weight, especially at the height it is in the car. BUT 800 bucks is too steep in my opinion. And there is a product out that gives you the Bluetooth connectivity to monitor battery condition, of a standard battery. So, Until the costs come down, and they will, I just can't spend that on a battery.
Cw
Cw
#9
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There's "a lot of coin" for a battery,
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
A new set of headers/xpipe cats or a battery?
I'll have to get back to you on that one.
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#10
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Your tank holds 65 litres of fuel which is about 50kg. (110lbs) which obviously fluctuates and that weight is on top of your front wheels which make more difference than the battery weight at the base of the windshield to handling.
Even a full windshield fluid reservoir add about 9 lbs. Unless your racing your car, the possible 40lb weight savings on an $800 battery doesn't make a lot of sense.
I'm not knocking the batteries at all though mind you. Specialty batteries mean specialty prices from specialty stores that have specialty operating hours.
Get a good brand name battery with a good warranty from say a Walmart or Costco which seem to always be open.
Even a full windshield fluid reservoir add about 9 lbs. Unless your racing your car, the possible 40lb weight savings on an $800 battery doesn't make a lot of sense.
I'm not knocking the batteries at all though mind you. Specialty batteries mean specialty prices from specialty stores that have specialty operating hours.
Get a good brand name battery with a good warranty from say a Walmart or Costco which seem to always be open.
#11
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I just bought a 60aH Antigravity battery. It dropped 40 pounds from the (non factory) battery that was in there. I can jump start it from a remote, and I can monitor it from my phone. I don't know how you can beat 13+ cranking volts and the state of charge offered by a lithium. It's like having two batteries in your vehicle.
I am all for it after installing one. I will be converting my overland vehicles.
I am all for it after installing one. I will be converting my overland vehicles.
#12
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There's "a lot of coin" for a battery,
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
and then there's "A LOT OF COIN FOR A BATTERY!!"...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKURSLITHIUM.html
#13
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So I'm considering a lithium battery in the near future. Ive seen Antigravity ads in Excellence mag. The 2 choices for my car are: https://antigravitybatteries.com/?ma...ion=vpf-search
I have no clue which battery my car needs. In the case of batteries, is more always better?
I have no clue which battery my car needs. In the case of batteries, is more always better?
One thing we've always said is that lithium may not be for everyone but some may really want to look at the details when considering and comparing to understand the benefits...yes, the light weight advantage is huge if that's what you're going for. Especially when you compare it to modifications and associated cost people consider for other things like exhaust upgrades, wheels, carbon fiber parts and pieces...but in addition to that the cost isn't that extravagant when you look at the big picture..it has indeed come down, especially when you compare it to the stock offering someone had linked previously in the post or when you compare to similar offerings from companies like Braille and others out there..., the truth is that it is indeed a more expensive battery in regards to material and to produce but from a cost standpoint it's also a battery chemistry that is rated to last 2-3 times longer that the standard lead/acid counterparts..so yes, you'll see more up front but that will play out over time. In addition it's just a better performing battery in the quality of cranking output, much more consistent and stronger than lead/acid options. Lastly, you have the Battery Management System and Wireless Re-Start feature, these will ensure you get the best life out of the battery and make sure you never left stranded with a dead battery...I think everyone at some point has experienced this and there's incredible value in knowing that's time you won't loose.
Please feel free to check out the vid below and as always let us know if you have any questions at all.
#14
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With regard to cost, I dropped $300 on an optimus and had to replace it 2 years in a row before I bailed on it. Stranded me twice. If $800 buys me 8+ years of reliable starts, I am not opposed.
That suncoast ad had this in the fine print "If your car currently has the standard battery and you're converting, dealer programming is required. If you have the 60Ah battery (option I194), you will need to purchase the additional mounting bracket"
Dealer programming? What for? charging modifications, discharging modifications? Would this have to be done for an antigravity battery?
That suncoast ad had this in the fine print "If your car currently has the standard battery and you're converting, dealer programming is required. If you have the 60Ah battery (option I194), you will need to purchase the additional mounting bracket"
Dealer programming? What for? charging modifications, discharging modifications? Would this have to be done for an antigravity battery?
#15
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With regard to cost, I dropped $300 on an optimus and had to replace it 2 years in a row before I bailed on it. Stranded me twice. If $800 buys me 8+ years of reliable starts, I am not opposed.
That suncoast ad had this in the fine print "If your car currently has the standard battery and you're converting, dealer programming is required. If you have the 60Ah battery (option I194), you will need to purchase the additional mounting bracket"
Dealer programming? What for? charging modifications, discharging modifications? Would this have to be done for an antigravity battery?
That suncoast ad had this in the fine print "If your car currently has the standard battery and you're converting, dealer programming is required. If you have the 60Ah battery (option I194), you will need to purchase the additional mounting bracket"
Dealer programming? What for? charging modifications, discharging modifications? Would this have to be done for an antigravity battery?
Also, in general there is no programming requited to swap out a battery.... though even with a Lead/Acid Battery Porsche will try to say you need to reprogram the PIWIS with each new install. This is true if your battery is the same and about 5-6 years old, but in general is not needed since the charging profile barely changes at all over the course of those years. The programming is supposed to inform your car that you have installed a new battery and allow the car to change the charging profile mildly over the course years as a battery ages.... It was never accurate anyway, and it just allows Porsche to charge you more on a battery install. You can also choose a Lithium setting from the PIWIS system... but that is really only changing the profile for high sustained RPMs, for example if you're tracking a lot... but again our battery won't care at all which profile since it can handle them all.
So in the end, all things considered, you do not need to change anything... just a direct swap out with the Antigravity Battery and it has the exact OEM size so no need for any extra tray or fitments.... its Plug and Play.
Last edited by Antigravity; 06-15-2020 at 11:33 AM.