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Finally got my Turbo Deck lid on. Now I have multiple inches of clearance by the throttle body. The only constraint is the latch. Trying out a few different latches to see if I can make something work that is smaller than the Porsche unit before ordering a Cobrahead style intake elbow to see if that clears. Decklid was a super easy swap, I got the wiring harness with it, however the main connector seemed like it was damaged or something, I could not for the life of me get it to go together, nor could I see what was different/wrong. I depinned and ordered a new one from Mouser. The single strut is ok, but I think I will order some 10mm ball pins and add a strut on both sides.
Either I could change the badging, or change the engine to match the badge... Wow this car needs to be cleaned again! The elbow just barely hits the hinge. Eventually I need to bring that intake to my friend's house for powdercoat. This was a FoMoCo trunk latch, not what I ordered, but similar in design. Will be ordering a Chevy Camaro/CTS latch. It has the motor built into the latch, so if nothing else, it allows my to move it over slightly if needed. High pressure AC fitting. I can't weld aluminum, but I could buy a 3/8-24 adapter to the GM pressure sensor, so I machined those threads and Oring seat in here. AC system is all together now, I will stop at Autozone tonight to get their loaner vacuum pump and leak test the sytem.
Last edited by superman22x; 02-12-2021 at 08:51 AM.
yup, manual swap is a piece of cake. Hardest part was the clutch lines. Instead of finding OEM lines, I designed a set of 3AN fittings for the Porsche clutch master cylinder and ran PTFE braided lines through the car. This is a 996.1 but should be the same for 996.2. Feel free to hit me up with any questions, e30rapidic.
Thank you!!! I (most certainly) and probably will!
I'm dying to get my car back on the road for the spring and summer. I've reached out to so some local tuning places about PIWIS help but haven't heard anything. I'll be honest, my extent of "tuning" Porsches is based on my handheld icarsoft and resetting the oil services haha. I may end up piecing all the stuff together but putting it off until after I get my fix of driving it a few months. The mechanical side of the swap looks fun....and gratifying.
Interesting update... Turns out my coolant gauge was way off - not found by overheating thankfully. I was tricked by the gauge cluster. There is almost a 50* window where the gauge will read 175F. It won't read over 175 until coolant is somewhere around 220 it seems. WOW. I get masking the thermostat opening/closing, but this caught me by surprise.
In this graph, X axis is what I sent the gauge, Y is what the gauge displayed (some wiggle room, I estimated my best here). I skewed my gauge a little based on this. I am sending a linear coolant signal. The gauge will read about 10-15 degrees warmer than it really is until 175. At about 210, it will start to creep up the gauge finally.
In other news, couple other updates:
1) My A/C is fully functional and leak free, so that is exciting. I got it working during the coldest days of the year of course.
2) I removed the clutch helper spring. I was finding there were spots towards the bottom of travel where the clutch pedal could remain static. I'm guessing since the 991 clutch I have is a twin disc, the clamping force is actually less than a 997 clutch, while still maintaining nearly double the torque capacity (I think I read 700nm rating). Not sure the 911 uses a helper spring at all, I like the way the clutch feels now. I'll report back after the Woodward Dream Cruise if I still like it... LOL.
Last edited by superman22x; 02-22-2021 at 08:48 AM.
Interesting update... Turns out my coolant gauge was way off - not found by overheating thankfully. I was tricked by the gauge cluster. There is almost a 50* window where the gauge will read 175F. It won't read over 175 until coolant is somewhere around 220 it seems. WOW. I get masking the thermostat opening/closing, but this caught me by surprise.
In this graph, X axis is what I sent the gauge, Y is what the gauge displayed (some wiggle room, I estimated my best here). I skewed my gauge a little based on this. I am sending a linear coolant signal. The gauge will read about 10-15 degrees warmer than it really is until 175. At about 210, it will start to creep up the gauge finally.
In other news, couple other updates:
1) My A/C is fully functional and leak free, so that is exciting. I got it working during the coldest days of the year of course.
2) I removed the clutch helper spring. I was finding there were spots towards the bottom of travel where the clutch pedal could remain static. I'm guessing since the 991 clutch I have is a twin disc, the clamping force is actually less than a 997 clutch, while still maintaining nearly double the torque capacity (I think I read 700nm rating). Not sure the 911 uses a helper spring at all, I like the way the clutch feels now. I'll report back after the Woodward Dream Cruise if I still like it... LOL.
Yep, it's fairly well known that the 997 coolant temp gauge is really an idiot light disguised as a gauge and heavily buffered. The 996 was not this way and was an actual gauge. My Cayenne is just like the 997 and with the p3 vent gauge installed I can see the coolant temp get to 214 F before the fans kick on, and the gauge hasn't moved from the arrows vertical position at 180 F.
Weather turned nice this Saturday, so I took the car out for 20 or so miles. What a machine! It drives awesome, LT1 torque is phenomenal, and the chassis puts the power down with ease. Using the 997 stock mufflers, it sounds good, not overly loud, but most importantly, no drone! I think I would like to incorporate some exhaust valves to get some noise when I leave the neighborhood. I've picked up the CAN message to that goes true when sport mode enables, so I could trigger the exhaust valves off that, or something similar. Since my arduino picks up pedal positions, engine RPM, etc, I could make my own simple algo for them as well.
Overall, I'm VERY happy with the way the swap turned out. A few minor details to sort out still, like what to do about a decklid latch... Turbo decklid leaves plenty of room above the intake at least. And I believe the sway bar needs to drop another 1/2" or so. I found in some instances at idle, the engine was touching the swap bar, caused some nasty idle vibrations.
In addition, a couple things I'd like to sort out with the car itself. The rubber around the rear quarter windows is crumbling. Looking into that, it sounds like it's riveted into the body... and if those rivets fall down, it's bad news. Not to mention, the rubber seals are $400/side... I also have more squeeks in the car I'd like to find, seems to come from the door and the Bpillar area, but hard to really tell, need a passenger to ride along and pinpoint it.
Did you have to swap the Camaro LT1 pan for the Vette pan? Looks like even that barely avoids being the low point. Is it pretty much only the Vette pan or the Holley 302-20? Thanks!
You chose your moniker well. What you've done is truly "super"! Just the Arduino to CAN piece is amazing. Well done and thanks for taking us along with your. Such an interesting thread. At some point it would be really fun to see a video of the car in action.
Did you have to swap the Camaro LT1 pan for the Vette pan? Looks like even that barely avoids being the low point. Is it pretty much only the Vette pan or the Holley 302-20? Thanks!
Yes, I used the wet sump corvette pan, it is probably the lowest point, just barely below the transmission. The best option would be to use the drysump corvette pan, but you'd have to find some room for the oil tank.
Originally Posted by tinroof
You chose your moniker well. What you've done is truly "super"! Just the Arduino to CAN piece is amazing. Well done and thanks for taking us along with your. Such an interesting thread. At some point it would be really fun to see a video of the car in action.
Thanks! I do hope to eventually get a short video of this car.
Interesting adventure today! The driver side coolant tube popped off. Had about 300 miles on the swap. I am 99% sure I had it well seated. Ended up getting it to a parking lot to crawl under it (after it cooled off) and popping the line back in. My wife brought me a couple gallons of water and made it home...
Question is, is this a common problem at all? I know the turbos have issues, hadn't heard of any issues with the NA cars.
The positive is, I know my coolant overtemp warning works...
Interesting adventure today! The driver side coolant tube popped off. Had about 300 miles on the swap. I am 99% sure I had it well seated. Ended up getting it to a parking lot to crawl under it (after it cooled off) and popping the line back in. My wife brought me a couple gallons of water and made it home...
Question is, is this a common problem at all? I know the turbos have issues, hadn't heard of any issues with the NA cars.
The positive is, I know my coolant overtemp warning works...
The glued in pipes on the turbos actually come out of the fitting (the fitting fails). Hoses popping off on either the turbos or non-turbos is not common.
That's sort of what I figured, the turbos had an odd design there. I'm going to assume I did something wrong on install... I ordered a replacement hose just in case.
Well I have a sort of unfortunate update. Driving this past week, I am at about 1500 miles on the swap. Before lunch, I noticed it felt like the clutch was maybe stick slipping at high torque, basically 2000 rpm and just roll into the throttle. After lunch, I get a vibration any time I even lightly accelerate. Revs smoothly in neutral though. Sooooo, I'm thinking either a spring broke in the dual mass flywheel or something with the transmission. My suspicion leans towards the dual mass flywheel. The springs likely weren't designed for the inertia and torsional of a V8 despite it looking identical to the C7 flywheel. Currently repairing an Audi S5 I just bought, but the 911 looks like it gets engine out service this winter!
02-12-2021, 08:50 AM
