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Old 02-23-2020, 09:06 PM
  #16  
aaks38
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I have the older version of the HF DA and its been awesome and frankly I cant tell any difference other than noise between that and the griots DA buffer. M205 and a DA makes a huge difference on prepping a car for final wax/sealant.
Old 02-23-2020, 10:26 PM
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Qwksnke
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I bought a kit from Chemical Guys that included a polisher a few months ago. Been waiting on warm weather to break so that I can attempt to do the same
Old 02-23-2020, 11:45 PM
  #18  
gcthree
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The new HF random orbital polisher not only looks like the Italian Rupes polisher, it works ever bit as well for 1/3 the price. Pair it up with Chemical Guys hex pads and their hybrid polish and you're on your way. You cannot burn the paint.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:21 AM
  #19  
laphan
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Originally Posted by gcthree
The new HF random orbital polisher not only looks like the Italian Rupes polisher, it works ever bit as well for 1/3 the price. Pair it up with Chemical Guys hex pads and their hybrid polish and you're on your way. You cannot burn the paint.

Bought a random orbital from amazon for $69, paired with chemical guys hex pads and polish. Definitely pretty safe on our clear coat. You have to do something really wrong to burn the paint with this combo. I used hydrocharge as final coat. Very happy with end results. Took me almost 7 hrs from start to finish with multiple breaks in between.

Old 02-24-2020, 01:35 AM
  #20  
Rgarcia
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Originally Posted by Ripking
Damn that looks good! I have a 997.2 in black as well. Came to me with a lot of swirling and have been debating doing it myself or having a pro do it. This is encouraging! Did you use a paint meter at all? I was a bit worried with a 10 year old car but people say to start with light correction first and go heavier if needed. With dual action poliahers it seems fool proof but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. How long did it take you?
I didn’t use a paint meter and don’t own one.
Ive only done a few panels so far, but maybe 2-3 hours of labor. The tool is doing all the work and most of the time is prep Work.-hand washing, clay bar etc.
Old 02-24-2020, 10:34 AM
  #21  
Christian Stark
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+1 here. You will burn yourself out way before a DA would burn paint. DA's are a godsend over the rotary polishers for DIY'ers.

Originally Posted by gcthree
The new HF random orbital polisher not only looks like the Italian Rupes polisher, it works ever bit as well for 1/3 the price. Pair it up with Chemical Guys hex pads and their hybrid polish and you're on your way. You cannot burn the paint.
Old 02-24-2020, 11:08 AM
  #22  
PierW
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Originally Posted by Ironman88
I would recommend addressing the stone chips after the overall paint correction. That's what I did. Here are a few pics of some of it...












Iron,

Outstanding result. What is the touch-up tool you used in the photo? I just clayed and polished my black 997.1 a few weeks ago and (unfortunately) the stone chips look like a constellation of stars across the fenders. I don't want to use a toothpick (redneck) but also don't want to invest in a HVLP micro-brush if I don't have to!
Old 02-24-2020, 11:37 AM
  #23  
Ironman88
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Originally Posted by PierW
Iron,

Outstanding result. What is the touch-up tool you used in the photo? I just clayed and polished my black 997.1 a few weeks ago and (unfortunately) the stone chips look like a constellation of stars across the fenders. I don't want to use a toothpick (redneck) but also don't want to invest in a HVLP micro-brush if I don't have to!
I used the following tool (which can be a little bit tricky to deal with as the paint begins to lose fluidity with exposure to the air.) You have to be prepared to move fast once the paint is in the tool.
Amazon Amazon

Also used very small artist paint brushes which you can find along with art supplies.
As far as the paint - just used the factory touchup paint kit - color paint for 95% of the filling and clear for the final two applications.

In my experience, the key to a good outcome is to build the paint up in the chip or gouge in incremental steps. Lightly sanding between coats. Used 1000g and 1500g on the pencil as shown. The small piece of 3000g to smooth the overall at the very end. (In my experience, you have to sand the final clear application in order to have the gloss of the filled chip match the gloss of the surrounding paint.) Last steps - Menzerna FG400 followed by Menzerna Super Finish. The process is time-consuming as you have to allow the paint to fully dry prior to sanding.

Hope the process goes well for you.
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:08 PM
  #24  
63mercedes
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I just bought the paint brush mini bucket tool. Everyone swears by it. Meguiars 205 is great, I've used it since it came out. I will say the adams stuff is really good too. The corvette club swears by it. Their Finishing polish was great. It seems to be a bit easier to wipe off also. Thats the point of a da polisher its supposed to be fool proof. My friend who ran a detailing company and who won the meguiars challenge in the early 2000's always said you have to get polish hot, beause you want part of it melting into the slightly deeper imperfections. As soon as he would start after spreading it around he'd periodically stop just to feel the pad heat and make sure it's not cold. The touch up paint is next on my list, these cars are magnets for stone chips being so low and so wide. My truck is 15 years old and it's mint just cause it sits higher. I think that's why im hesitant to lower the carrera.



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