snaphappy

Starting my brake job today. I bought some anti squeal, it’s made by CRC. This is my first brake job with dampeners so do I still put the anti squeal on the back of the pads? Anywhere else? Thanks!

Fined

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workhurts

I put a little in the hole in the brake pad where the pin slides through ... and a very light coating on the pin itself, in addition to the spots in the video. Basically wherever the retaining clips might touch the metal (not braking material) part of the pad. I also put some on the back of the pad (the side facing the pistons).

Iceter

You using stock pads? If so, they have anti-squeal shims on the backs of the pads and don't necessarily need anti-squeal. It wouldn't hurt to add it, if you like. Just don't go crazy with the stuff.

Brake squeal is a harmonic between the pad and pistons. I don't ever put anti-squeal on anything else. You don't want to get greasy stuff anywhere near the rotor or pad surface.

Some brakes have rotors that ride on pins and the pins need to be lubricated. Ours do not as our rotors bolt solidly to the wheel carrier/spindle.

Petza914

First, let's make sure you're not confusing anti-squeal with high temp brake grease. Anti squeal goes on the back of the pad (the hard metal part that the friction material is attached to, not the friction material itself). It's purpose is to provide a layer of cushion between the caliper pistons and the back of the brake pad. This cushion is what stops the pad from resonating from the harmonic that builds up when the pads are touching the rotor as you lightly stop - that's where most brake squeal noise comes from.

For the rear pads, you should be using the metal pronged stick on dampeners and there you don't need any anti-squeal.


At the front, the pads have the cylinder looking things on the backs of the pads that go into the caliper pistons. I find what works best is to put a very light coat around the perimeter of each of these cylinders as well as on the back of the pad where the circle of the caliper piston will push against the pad carrier. Don't put on the anti-squeal until you've already mounted the rotor and are ready to hang the caliper. Apply it and then work quickly to get the pads into the caliper and the caliper onto the rotor, then before it has fully cured into a rubbery film, go in an push on the brake pedal pretty hard (car off). This will force the pads into the caliper and actually stick the caliper pistons to the pads so they can't oscillate at all. If you use this method and don't get them all the way into caliper pistons, they'll setup up a little bit out and then when you use the brakes, you'll unstick the pads from the pistons and there's a chance they'll oscillate and make noise eventually.

IF YOU DECIDE TO DO IT THIS WAY, YOU CANNOT TAKE MORE THAN 1 WHEEL APART AT A TIME AND HAVE TO LEAVE THE CALIPERS HANGING ON THE ROTORS FOR THE 3 WHEELS YOU'RE NOT WORKING ON OR WHEN YOU PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL TO SET THE CORNER YOU'RE WORKING ON, YOU'LL FORCE THE CALIPER PISTONS OUT OF THE CALIPERS ON ANY OTHER DISASSEMBLED WHEEL AND HAVE A HUGE MESS ON YOUR HANDS.

If you're not comfortable with this because of timing or the risk of messing up one of the other wheels or have already taken more than 1 corner apart, then just put a medium coat of the anti squeal on the back of the pad around the cylinders where the caliper pistons come in contact with the pad carrier and let it setup before putting things together.

High temp brake grease goes on the pad retaining pin.