jkoravos

Exactly, it probably takes me 4-5 hours and I work slowly and I don't have a lift and spend half my time getting out/putting away/searching for tools. With a lift and reasonable organization it would be a 2 hour job, even working slowly.

qikqbn

If you have not figured it out already... $3700 discounted to $3100 is the true meaning of a maintenance job quote from a "Stealership". If I was drinking coffee when they quoted me that I would have definitely spit some coffee out on the service guys desk. Then proceeded to laugh hysterically and ask them out loud if I looked like an idiot to them

I am all for OEM parts in a Porsche Box if that makes you sleep better at night, but there are lots of alternatives from german Porsche oem suppliers without the fancy box and at half the price. For Oem Box parts I use Sunset Porsche Parts or you can use Suncoast. For oem supplier alternatives I will use Pelican Parts.

Just because I have done rotors/pads so many times I know I can do each wheel in about 30-40 minutes taking my time. First timers will need twice that to familiarize yourself with the process. Then each wheel after that goes faster. Having the right tools ready and a DIY or good youtube video will help out a lot. If you are just replacing pads it is even easier. I use to replace rotors every time and now replace every other based on how the rotors are wearing. You can get an idea of how much rotor material is gone by running your finger nail across the rotor to the out edge. The outer edge will have a "lip" that will catch your finger nail on. That lip gives you an idea of what the original rotor surface level was at and how much has been worn away depending on how deep it is.

I also agree with others...If you shop around each axle will run you $500-600 in parts for L+R rotors, Brake pad set, Brake pad Sensor wires, brake hardware kit (optional/tension springs can reuse a couple times), caliper bolts (optional, can reuse a couple times if not a track car), brake pad dampers (these help brake squeal/vibration and I have reused in some cases if you clean them up and apply brake squeal adhesive spray to the backings.)

Some times being a grease monkey pays off in Porsche Stealership land!

Iceter

Yeah, that price is pretty rapey but if you don't do your own work, you're kind of at the mercy of the shop. But, brakes on these cars aren't different than the brakes on a Chevy Astro Van, so any shop you trust can do a brake job. Just exercise a little extra oversight to make sure they get the rotors and pads and brake fluid you spec out for them.

jamesinger

When I was tracking regularly, I used stoptech/centric stuff. I noticed a lot of guys could do full brake jobs sitting next to their car in the pits between sessions at the track. As a result, I helped a few guys and then first did pads myself. I was shocked how easy it was on an EVO, which cannot be that different than a 911. From the confidence I got after doing my pads, I also did my own rotors. The things that helped make it easier was having an electric impact gun + the other proper tools and parts all ready to go (so no surprises), and 4 jack stands + my own quiet garage at home. I also did have access to a friend's shop with lifts and mechanics that were cool to guide me and check my work when pizza and beer were provided but overall, this is an easy DIY. The only thing I never got good at while at the track or at home was bleeding/changing brake fluids alone. I always needed help with that.
Regardless, if that isn't your thing, like a lot of people said above, indie shops will be cheaper. I just felt empowered by doing my own work and found it to be generally enjoyable.

CAVU

Took a look at AllData (Porsche parts prices also quoted in AllData) for my 911.

Standard
Hours
2.0 Bleed Brakes
1.2 R&R the rotors
0.4 R&R the sensors
2.0 R&R the brake pads
----
5.6 Total hours

$940 Front rotors, pads and sensors
$786 Rear rotors, pads and sensors
$xx brake fluid
-----
$1726 Total parts
$ 50 Brake Fluid est
$ 50 shop fee est
$ 100 taxes on parts est
$ 980 labor at $175/hr est
--------
$2906

...and they can UP charge the parts to their heart's content and the standard labor hours are advisory. As you have done, I always get a quote from my service advisor.

Iceter

I believe when I priced this at my local dealer (a Hendrick store), they quoted $2,600 for all four corners, but I don't remember if that included a brake fluid change.

I found that to be excessive but after seeing your dealer's price, it seems downright reasonable.

Falcondrivr

Take it here:
https://www.autoquestcars.com/
Gavin and Amy have forgotten more about Porsche brakes than every tech at the dealer ever knew. They will do it correctly for a fraction of the cost.

qikqbn

Labor is a big factor. Bigger Stealerships near me also charge $175 + per hour. Where as my indy is closer to $100 + ... That's a big difference for the same 6 hour job. I always find it interesting that on average the labor hours quoted in the books are usually double of what the job actually takes a seasoned mechanic to do. We all have to pay the piper at some point, but basic maintenance like oil or a brake job should be something us Porsche owner's should learn to do. It is really easy and can be very satisfying to accomplish on your own.

jkoravos

The proper tools make it super easy. I have this 5-ton puller, it's a godsend for rotors.

PV997

Thanks for posting this, a quick breakdown:

5.6 hours - 50% more than what it would take a typical experienced mechanic
$1726 for parts - at least double what it costs for comparable OEM quality parts online without the fancy Porsche label on the box
$100 tax on parts - zero if bought online
$50 shop fees - for what, a little lube on the caliper bolts?
$175/hour labor - equates to $364,000 per year salary, is that what grease monkeys are pulling down these days? This isn't a Jake Raby engine overhaul, it's a brake job for crying out loud. Not rocket science.

Yeah, I know it's justified because there's a bunch of overhead involved in ripping people off and making them feel good about it. (The waiting room is really nice I hear, good coffee too.) And the dealerships have to charge this to stay in business, blah, blah, blah. This is about a $1200 job in a sane world, and that assumes the rotors need to be replaced which they might not. A local dealership stated it's Porsche "policy" to always replace rotors if there is any perceptible lip whatsoever, even if otherwise fine. It all but guarantees good rotors are being tossed.

What a racket.

rodH

Surprised that no one has asked how many miles are on the car and if the rotors have been inspected enough to "need replacing". More often than not, they don't need to be replaced, but they upsell you on the need.DIY brake jobs are about the easiest way to save BIG money. If you can turn a wrench and are at all interested in saving money, this is super easy.

jkoravos

What the official rotor thickness reading for "needs replacing"? The rotors on my new to me C2S are definitely well used but I'd be curious what the official word is from Porsche on minimum rotor thickness for stock rotors.

Petza914

Should be engraved right on the rotor somewhere - maybe the hat or the outer edge. In my experience with Porsches, it's usually 3mm less than the starting rotor thickness (i.e. if the rotor was 28mm when new, then the minimum thickness is 25mm). PCCBs are different, so this is only for the iron rotors.

halsyknox

I'm interested as well. I seem to recall someone had a sheet for all the different models

Also it sounds like people replace the rotors if they have a lip on the edge. Why? That small lip is just where the pads do not meet the rotor, the new pads shouldn't be affected. Someone have a good reason to replace rotors with a raised lip?

Petza914

Depends on the size of the lip. That lip is essentially showing you the rotor wear on the pad sweep area. If the lip is around 1.5 mm and even on both sides, you're at the rotor wear limit. If it's 1mm, do you want to get just the last 0.5mm of wear before having to take the brakes apart again to change the rotors.