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Changing rear links when lowering??

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Old 09-09-2019, 03:00 PM
  #16  
Iceter
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Regarding the end links, lowering the car won't affect how the sway bars work with Eibachs. Any directional force on one side will still be transferred to the other side.

What will change is the direction of the force exerted on the connections between the end links and the bar. Making the angle between them more acute can stress the connection and wear out the end link bushings more quickly. Reducing the angle a great deal can cause an end link to break, but I don't think Eibachs lower the car enough to create that risk.

There is no pre-load on the sway bar--it rotates in its bushings. It will twist when cornering and on uneven road surfaces, but there is no torsion on the bar when the car is at rest. Sway bar bushings don't grab the bar, they are just there to absorb shocks that would otherwise be transmitted to the car when the wheels move.

I think that there are many on this board who have the Eibachs who have aligned their cars within spec using the stock suspension components. While adjustable end links would help keep the optimal angle between the links and sway bar, I have not heard of issues with street-driven cars using Eibachs reaching alignment adjustment limits with stock pieces.
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Old 09-09-2019, 04:46 PM
  #17  
Petza914
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Originally Posted by Iceter
Regarding the end links, lowering the car won't affect how the sway bars work with Eibachs. Any directional force on one side will still be transferred to the other side.

What will change is the direction of the force exerted on the connections between the end links and the bar. Making the angle between them more acute can stress the connection and wear out the end link bushings more quickly. Reducing the angle a great deal can cause an end link to break, but I don't think Eibachs lower the car enough to create that risk.

There is no pre-load on the sway bar--it rotates in its bushings. It will twist when cornering and on uneven road surfaces, but there is no torsion on the bar when the car is at rest. Sway bar bushings don't grab the bar, they are just there to absorb shocks that would otherwise be transmitted to the car when the wheels move.

I think that there are many on this board who have the Eibachs who have aligned their cars within spec using the stock suspension components. While adjustable end links would help keep the optimal angle between the links and sway bar, I have not heard of issues with street-driven cars using Eibachs reaching alignment adjustment limits with stock pieces.

Good input. Thanks.
Old 09-10-2019, 08:34 AM
  #18  
Uwon
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Many thanks to everyone who chimed in to my original question. I’m now armed with new knowledge!
Cheers.
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:03 AM
  #19  
dashanin
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Thanks for starting the thread. I'm in the process of lowering my 997.2 with TechArt springs (it's my understanding that Eibach makes these springs for TechArt but spring rate is different). It's my daily with occasional track use so I needed to work out a budget- and road-friendly set up that gave sharpened suspension without breaking a bank. Sharkwerks was a great resource, as was Tarret and Elephant. I decided to lower the car, add spacers and H&R sways in order to reuse stock drop links. With proper alignment tire wear should not be compromised and TechArt/Eibach provide a minimal drop thus not creating clearance and caster/toe issues. If my track needs evolve, next stage is adding drop links and rear toe links with GT3 lower control arms with adjustable thrust arm bushings. It will get noisy but well worth it...on the track. Good luck with the upgrades. Cheers!
Old 09-11-2019, 05:02 PM
  #20  
campbesl
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Default Lowered with Bilstein B16 Coilover Kit

Two weeks ago I installed the Bilstein B16 coilover kit on my 2006 Carrera S with PASM. I did not replace any other suspension components. As set from the factory, the spring perch locations on the coilovers resulted in the car being 'slammed'. Yesterday (after a requisite wait for the suspension to settle) I took my car to Hendrick Porsche in Charlotte NC. The tech, Cameron, voiced concern that it was *really low* and feared that I would have tire wear and scraping issues. After a good bit of discussion we agreed to raise it to 10mm below ROW specs (measured at the frame). He then threw it on the alignment rack and achieved very good results getting all specs very close to the center value in each range. Again, this was accomplished without any changes to the suspension besides the Bilstein B16s.

(Full disclosure - I did replace front and rear shock mounts and the front bushing/bearing assembly with OEM parts but these would not alter suspension geometry)

Just wanted to add my recent experience to the discussion.

Scott
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