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I just replaced my brakes with Sebro rotors and Pagid Yellow R29 pads. The pads were a bitch to get in; rather tight fit. Actually had tap them in with a hammer on the fronts. I took the car out to “bed” the brakes and when I started driving it, I could tell the brakes were extremely tight - felt like the hand brake was on (which it wasn’t). After going through a bedding procedure, the brakes were still tight. I made home, but the brakes are smoking. The yellow pads actually turned brown.
Did they give me the wrong pads? Are they supposed to be this tight? They squeal like crazy! HELP! I got a DE in a few weeks.
Yes, 29s are notorious to be wider then PFCs. I remember I had to file them down a bit especially at the edges. I always also open bleeder valves when I install them according to Porsche manual. I would probably drive them a bit before trying a bedding process. It is hard to do it on a street anyways. Squealing is a part of the sport. You can put your Textar pads back after the track event. During track inspection have a shop to inspect your install thoroughly.
Thanks, Kisik. Problem is my OEM brake pads were down to 3mm, so they had to be replaced. I’d hate to run on these considering they are getting super hot. Might have to hurry up and order new OEM pads, and see if there is a difference.
For your sake and the sake of others on the road, please do not drive on these until you have either milled down the back plate short edges (as noted earlier) or replaced the pads. You current situation is dangerous.
Of the rotor, caliper and pad trio, the rotor and calipers are fixed and the pads are supposed to float. THey are not floating because the backing plate is too long. Your having to tap the pads into place was the first sign of trouble. You might as well jack up the front end and start working on removing the pads while you wait for the replacement pads or start filing down the two short edges of the backing plate. Compare the backing plates of your old pads and your new ones and you will see the issue clearly.
For your sake and the sake of others on the road, please do not drive on these until you have either milled down the back plate short edges (as noted earlier) or replaced the pads. You current situation is dangerous.
Of the rotor, caliper and pad trio, the rotor and calipers are fixed and the pads are supposed to float. THey are not floating because the backing plate is too long. Your having to tap the pads into place was the first sign of trouble. You might as well jack up the front end and start working on removing the pads while you wait for the replacement pads or start filing down the two short edges of the backing plate. Compare the backing plates of your old pads and your new ones and you will see the issue clearly.
Best of luck.
You read my mind, Cafu. Car is back in the garage, lifted, wheels off. New OEM pads ordered.
I did grind down the edges of the pads, but not the backing plates. But I don’t have time to play around. Since I will be driving this to the track, I’ll replace them with EOM. They will fine for 2 days at the track.
Could you take a picture of the two pads backing plates back to back to each other. I am curious as to how much longer your new pad's backing plate is compared to the ones you took off.
For your sake and the sake of others on the road, please do not drive on these until you have either milled down the back plate short edges (as noted earlier) or replaced the pads. You current situation is dangerous.
Of the rotor, caliper and pad trio, the rotor and calipers are fixed and the pads are supposed to float. THey are not floating because the backing plate is too long. Your having to tap the pads into place was the first sign of trouble. You might as well jack up the front end and start working on removing the pads while you wait for the replacement pads or start filing down the two short edges of the backing plate. Compare the backing plates of your old pads and your new ones and you will see the issue clearly.
Best of luck.
Cavu, now that I’m thinking about this more, I’m a little confused about your statement about grinding the backing plate because it’s too long. I had to grind the **** out of my truck’s brake pads to get them to fit into the caliper housing. So I understand what you mean about being too long, edge to edge, length-wise. But the Porsche brakes don’t seem to have that same design. I should be able to drop them right in from the back of the caliper. They don’t clip in to any spring housing like my truck.
The Pagid pads are way too thick, and grinding down the backplate to thin it out seems like an awful lot of work, and the risk of not thinning out evenly over the entire surface of the backing plate.
Could you take a picture of the two pads backing plates back to back to each other. I am curious as to how much longer your new pad's backing plate is compared to the ones you took off.
Top one is the new Pagid I just took off the front right (not so yellow anymore). Bottom is the old OEM..
Did you try to install the Pagids with the brake dampers installed? I found that if I removed the dampers for the first event, they installed without a problem.
Did you try to install the Pagids with the brake dampers installed? I found that if I removed the dampers for the first event, they installed without a problem.
This. You have to remove factory dampers in order to install brand new Pagids.
There are plenty of good brake pad companies out there that make pads that fit into the factory calipers without having to install them improperly. By improperly, I mean without the factory dampeners (which will make them very unpleasant on your drive to and from the track) or having to rework them to make them fit. Scrap those or offer them up in the Marketplace to someone who wants them for track days and can either mill the backing plate or the friction material to make them fit.
While you're waiting on your new pads to arrive, you need to clean the bedding layer off the new rotors you installed. Driving with the Pagids and bedding them has deposited a microscopic layer of that pad material into the surface of the rotor. That's what gives brakes that nice initial bite where the pad material on the pad is contacting the layer of pad material deposited onto the rotor. Now that you're switching pad materials you need to start fresh, then rebed. I sue a roloc pad on my drill with brake cleaner sprayed onto it. The brake cleaner not only cleans the surface better, but the wetness prevents the asbestos in the pad material from becoming airborn where you can aspirate it.
Having gotten them as hot as you did from the pads dragging on the calipers, you may have glazed the surface of the rotor. Before using the roloc pad on the drill, you might also want to hit them with some sandpaper - not too rough, maybe like a 150 grit to expose the raw metal of the rotor again.
Also, are you sure you've retracted the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper. I use a pistol grip clamp when doing mine to push them all the way back, but you have to remove the caliper from the carrier to do that. You may be able to find a clamping tool for that purpose that fits in from the outside and can do that.
Where are Pagid pads manufactured? It is my understanding that most developed countries banned the use of asbestos in brakes and clutch linings back in the nineties, and that the primary risk of asbestos exposure in brake parts was when dealing with cheap, off-brand and counterfeit Chinese, Mexican and Indian parts.
Where are Pagid pads manufactured? It is my understanding that most developed countries banned the use of asbestos in brakes and clutch linings back in the nineties, and that the primary risk of asbestos exposure in brake parts was when dealing with cheap, off-brand and counterfeit Chinese, Mexican and Indian parts.
I'm sure you're right and maybe there's no asbestos anymore, but still probably wise not to ingest brake dust as whatever holds them together instead of asbestos probably ins't too good for the respiratory system either.
08-25-2019, 12:12 PM
Replaced Brakes - Now Too Tight! Help!
