Originally Posted by Petza914

There are plenty of good brake pad companies out there that make pads that fit into the factory calipers without having to install them improperly. By improperly, I mean without the factory dampeners (which will make them very unpleasant on your drive to and from the track) or having to rework them to make them fit.

Originally Posted by Petza914

Also, are you sure you've retracted the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper. I use a pistol grip clamp when doing mine to push them all the way back, but you have to remove the caliper from the carrier to do that. You may be able to find a clamping tool for that purpose that fits in from the outside and can do that.

Originally Posted by Glyndellis

Most track pads are noisy on the street. Even bedded in correctly, some light usage on the way home from the track will make them squeal like a school bus. I tried the Mark Kibort bedding technique (calm down guys!) and this was a little better but the noise still told my wife I was home. There was not a difference in noise after I added back the dampers.



I have a Lisle 29100 pad spreader that fits inside a 997S caliper to retract the pistons. Obviously the calipers have to be an open back for this to fit.

Originally Posted by Petza914

There are plenty of good brake pad companies out there that make pads that fit into the factory calipers without having to install them improperly. By improperly, I mean without the factory dampeners (which will make them very unpleasant on your drive to and from the track) or having to rework them to make them fit. Scrap those or offer them up in the Marketplace to someone who wants them for track days and can either mill the backing plate or the friction material to make them fit.

While you're waiting on your new pads to arrive, you need to clean the bedding layer off the new rotors you installed. Driving with the Pagids and bedding them has deposited a microscopic layer of that pad material into the surface of the rotor. That's what gives brakes that nice initial bite where the pad material on the pad is contacting the layer of pad material deposited onto the rotor. Now that you're switching pad materials you need to start fresh, then rebed. I sue a roloc pad on my drill with brake cleaner sprayed onto it. The brake cleaner not only cleans the surface better, but the wetness prevents the asbestos in the pad material from becoming airborn where you can aspirate it.

Having gotten them as hot as you did from the pads dragging on the calipers, you may have glazed the surface of the rotor. Before using the roloc pad on the drill, you might also want to hit them with some sandpaper - not too rough, maybe like a 150 grit to expose the raw metal of the rotor again.

Also, are you sure you've retracted the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper. I use a pistol grip clamp when doing mine to push them all the way back, but you have to remove the caliper from the carrier to do that. You may be able to find a clamping tool for that purpose that fits in from the outside and can do that.

Good luck and have fun at the track !

Originally Posted by mjdcolo

Thanks Petza914. I will look at cleaning the rotors. Good call.

I used a spreading tool on the calipers, so they were back as far as they could go.

BTW: The new pads pads drop right in.