That's easy to test. Swap the one from bank 1 with bank 2 and see if the misfire codes follow the sensor and now occur on cylinders 1, 2, and 3.

 

My throttle body didn't throw any codes but the idle, odometer needle was moving all over. When I watched the odometer needle, it bounced between 500 and 1200 rpms. It just wouldn't stay steady at 800 or 900 rpms. I replaced the throttle body. Now nice and steady and a fixed rpm needle at 800 rpms. It really messed with the way the car ran so maybe that is worth looking into. Throttle body is around 200 dollars unless you buy it from Porsche and have a Porsche dealership install it. Then you are looking at around $800. If you are somewhat handy or skilled you can do it for under $300 yourself. Not a difficult job at all. You may also want to clean the Mass Airflow Sensor with some MAF Sensor cleaner spray can.

 

So after lots of research and thanks to you guys at Rennlist ive got the car working again! It ended up being the camshaft position sensor! Car runs better than ever now!

 

smashervt, glad you got it resolved and are back in business. What do I win for getting it right in post #5 LOL

 

Haha thanks. You get a internet cookie and know that a new Porsche owner can actual enjoy his car.

 

Sweet. Exactly what I wanted.

 

I am working on a similar issue with my 997.2. I procured a data reader and the camshaft deviation bank 2 was reading steady zero while bank 1 has values. I changed out the hall sensor (camshaft position sensor) on the right/passenger side and fired the car up and that reading is still at zero on bank 2. Bank 2 is the right side (=passenger side USA) on the 911, correct?

Could a bad variable valve solenoid cause this reading? I have a spare one of those too but am hesitant to keep changing parts.

Original issue is CEL with a few misfires on 4,5,6.

 

That's weird. Swap the sensor from bank 1 to bank 2 and see if the zeros follow the sensor or stay on the same bank. It's possible you got a bad sensor or have an issue with the wiring going to that sensor. As far as I know, the camshaft deviation should show numbers, not all 0s.

 

I'm still trying to figure this one out. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

Does anyone know why my Camshaft Deviation Bank 2 would read -32 before I start the car and then go to zero as soon as I start the car and remains zero while the car is running? I've changed the cam sensor and the VVT solenoid on the passenger side (bank 2) and all plugs and coils are new and properly torqued.

Camshaft deviation bank 1 side seems to behave like I'd expect.

The camshaft angles seem to be correct on both sides. What is this camshaft deviation measuring and what measures it?

Before the car is started:



After starting the car:

 

Did you swap the sensors from the 2 sides and the what happens to the readings. I've never checked mine without the engine running. I would kind of assume they'd be zero with the engine off, but maybe not.

What tool are these screen readings from? Do yiu know anyone with a Durametric?

 

Yes the swapping did not change the readings. I’m wondering if this is an axial reading or radial reading. The tool is an Autel which is similar to Durametric.