You have a fiber optic connector there (the orange wires). You will need some sort of adapter (a MOST box) to translate the fiber optical signal to a regular RCA jack signal to the HU. This is why you have no sound. Ask your HU vendor which MOST box they recommend to be sure of compatibility.

 

not dead, but likely simply not getting the amp turn on signal from the HU. Or not getting the correct speaker signals from the HU. How do you have it connected?

not for ASK setups - on those the FO connection is just used for NAV, not audio to the amp. Since the FO connection is not being used for the new HU, there should be a loop plug connected to the end so that the MOST ring is not broken.

 

I have the Heregoes AliExpress unit. It’s the 7862 variant running Android 14. My car is a 2005 997.1 C2S manual transmission.

Prior to an unsuccessful rear camera install attempt (don’t need advice on that…I’m over it), the radio would automatically turn on and off when I inserted or removed the key from the ignition. It now requires manual press on and off.

When I manually switch off the radio, the buttons remain illuminated for approximately 20-25 seconds after either removing the key from ignition, after closing the doors or after locking the car.

When the car is locked and I pull on the driver door handle, the radio keys will illuminate and go out after approximately 20-25 seconds (nothing happens when the passenger door handle is pulled). I didn’t think much of it until I discovered it was still drawing power and drained the battery - I confirmed with a multimeter test and isolating the fuse (row D10 in the footwell fuse panel). There was minimal parasitic draw with fuse D10 removed, this was also the result with fuse D10 plugged in but the radio totally disconnected from the car’s wiring harness. So I’m pretty certain that the radio is the cause.

Now, if you’re thinking I know a bit about electrics and wiring, don’t be fooled, I know nothing. I’ve stumbled my way up to this point through sheer bloody minded stubbornness. But I now reach out to those more knowledgeable than me for assistance on what to do next, the internet said something about a “switched source” but I don’t know how to determine that source or which wire(s) in the nest to connect to and the vendor Heregoes has not been able to help.

Thanks

 

Want to pull the trigger on one of these units soon for my 997.1 S with Bose. Can I please get feedback on which unit would be the easiest plug & play and best color match with the OEM volcano-gray center console?

After reading all these posts I am leaning to get the Heregoes 7862 Android 12, 8G RAM - 128G ROM unit. Is that the best choice? I also have seen units from Sadocom, Owtosin, and others in AliExpress.

My interest is Bluetooth Carplay capability - no cameras. Have LA Power (Mr12 Volt) unit that works great for years but my PCS screen is on its way out.

Thanks in advance.

 

The switched 12v or Accessory wire is supposed to be the solid red one in the harness. In my harness the color of this wire was closer to hot pink than true red so I confirmed it on a test bench. Did you do anything with the blue antenna wire? It was mentioned in post #1556 on page 104 that powering that wire will cause the unit to remain on when the key is pulled out.

 

Hi Matt,

so i have been fiddling with it all weekend, but still no luck, i have gotten so far, that i can`t even start the car car says that "selector lever not engaged" and i can only crank the car when headlights is turned on.
here is how it all started, i bought the car from Japan and it recently arrived it has been eqquipped with aftermarket clarion head unit + digital tv tuner + precise gps small screen on dash with gps antenas, there was a lot of wires going through the car and all plugged into main harness behind the HU and all wires stumped there (digital tv tuner was under passanger seat). only + wire was routed to extra small screen on dash which showed gps speed, g forces and so on.. and one + wire to tv digital receiver, also two grounds to mentioned units. No splicing and cutting in original wiring, so i just removed everything and plugged in new aliexpress head unit, i didn`t wire any of loose wires which are marked ant+, key1, key2, brake, i don`t know if i should wire them in. (please look at pictures below). so i swapped head unit, it powered nicely on, did all carplay settings, wifi etc... phone is connecting and i didn`t even bother to start the car, now i wanted to park my car outside and i couldn`t get it to start i got error message gear selector not engaged, it feels like battery is dead it kind of want to crank but stops unless i turn on headlights, shift to N position, then it slowly starts up and runs fine.

i stumbled on two posts on internet where after HU change guys got the same error:

here is my wired connection, do these wires needs to be connected?




this is how it looks like everything is connected

4 wires from original car loom

only 2 wires from new HU side orange and orange/black wire

4 wires from car loom

only 3 wires from HU loom

all connected view from car loom side

all connected view from HU side

so there is 2 plugs where is missing some wires from HU loom side, i don`t know, maybe they are not needed, so black plug lets say no #1 (longer one) have 4 wires coming from car side, but only 2 from new HU wire loom side and the black plug no #2 (shorter one) have 4 wires from car and 3 wires from new HU loom.

and yes, i still don`t have mids and bass from speakers only tweeters is working, it looks like my ask amp is not getting power, maybe i should wire in one of those 4 loose wires from new HU loom? I also have one optic-fibre cable, but i don`t have a changer or bose unit, it was just dangling in there and previous setup didn`t use it, but also with previos setup there was only tweeter sound.




so these wires i have from car loom side and i`m missing from HU loom in opposite side, maybe someone knows what is green wire, white/orange wire and black orange wire?


sorry for long post, but it`s really bugging me right now and i hope someone can help me with some advices.

thank you and have a great day all!
Artis.

 

The radio needs two connected wires - red (12V ACC, switched live) and yellow (12v permanent live/battery). The yellow wire is to retain things like radio station settings in memory and so on. The red wire activates the radio when the ignition is turned to the ACC position. Do you have both wires connected?

 

so i found an issue, previous owner wired old head unit in fuse box row B F9 Telephone ctrl module, tiptr. pos., which by the first internet picture i assumed was blank spot or can be used for any accessory to source 12v so i removed this wired fuse (i thought i had layout for my model, but turns out fuse layout was the same, but from different model i guess with other engine or other equipment).

still funny, if this fuse is removed you can`t start the car, there is an error gear "selector not engaged", when you turn on healdights it is possible to start the car, but it turns the engine really slow, like battery would be dying, but over three turns it fires up, then you can turn off the lights and car is still running.

 

Thanks for the response @crtcayman
The red/hot pink accessory wire is in pin location 3 on my main power harness, but I do not have a test bench to test it. I looked at post 1556, I have not done anything to the blue antenna wire, it has one of those plastic tips on the end, nothing is tapped into it or vice versa.

 

Yes, I have the red accessory wire (pin position 3 of the 16 pin power harness) and the yellow B+ wire (pin position 2 of the 16 pin power harness). When I trace those wires and the black ground wire from the radio power harness, they all go to each of the other end of the main power harness connector to the 997 harness, the canbus connector and the MOST connector for Bose.

 

I was reading through the install guide that the users on the 991 forums pulled together for the CHSTEK units and two of the entries caught my eye.

settings>factory>SleepModeSetting:

• (Switch off head unit or switch to deep sleep, when ACC is turned off). Deep sleep will keep your car battery alive for ~30 days, but after ~3 days, your car will go into total shutdown anyway to be sure not to drain the car battery in case some badly behaving program keeps a wake-lock preventing your unit from going into deep sleep. This can happen on rooted units. On normal units the system can still kill such a program.

settings>user>DelayPowerOffWhenAccOff:

• (After ACC of the delay time to put unit in sleep or off: OFF / 3 sec / 10 sec / 3 min)

I wonder if either of these are set in a way that's causing the long delay in shutting off the system or putting into low-power mode. Another setting to look into is:
settings>factory>AntennaNormallyOn:

• (Some cars need constant 12V on the Antenna to get a good signal, especially when you have a fin antenna and connected via the CAN bus => Then set to On)

This was stated in a previous post to cause the system not to go to sleep.

 

The option that prevent the unit from being triggered by the key insertion is the option about antenna amplification (do not rember the exact wording)

 

Does anyone know how to change the temperature reading on the top right to F instead of C? Also what is the source of that temp value?

Thanks

 

There's a setting under "Settings>Factory>Temperature Unit Switch" that should change that but It hasn't worked for me yet which has me thinking it may require a full shutdown to get it to change over. Based on the documentation I have it pulls this from the CANBUS so it should match up with what gets displayed on the dash. You can also turn it off using "Settings>Factory>External Temperature"

 

Thanks. I'll go poke around there some.

Also, where are folks putting their GPS antennas and mics? Do I even need to bother installing them if I'm mostly going to be using my phone/carplay? I feel like if I stuff the GPS under the dash it isn't going to get great signal.