Do 997 have rev limiters???
2007 Targa 4 70000 miles
As I am going through the gears and accelerating fairly hard, my car has a dead spot at around 4200 rpms, as if it had a rev limiter and of course I use this as my Queue to change to a higher gear. I normally shift at lower rpms, but the times I have wanted to have a more spirited drive, it happens everytime.
I have fealth that since I got the car, but was not paying attention to the rpms and went by feel. The engine has that dead spot when I feel it could take a little more before upping gear. So I paid more attention and that is when I noticed the 4200 rpm thing.
Could this be a safety feature to avoid over revs???
As I am going through the gears and accelerating fairly hard, my car has a dead spot at around 4200 rpms, as if it had a rev limiter and of course I use this as my Queue to change to a higher gear. I normally shift at lower rpms, but the times I have wanted to have a more spirited drive, it happens everytime.
I have fealth that since I got the car, but was not paying attention to the rpms and went by feel. The engine has that dead spot when I feel it could take a little more before upping gear. So I paid more attention and that is when I noticed the 4200 rpm thing.
Could this be a safety feature to avoid over revs???
Real quick, I'd say it does it in 1st and second, maybe 3rd gear as for the other gears, I'd have to be on a track to find out 😎
mine runs up to redline like its been stung by a bee ------------------------------------------------------------->
"I normally shift at lower RPM"... thats sad. The engine really starts to sing above 6k RPM.
"I normally shift at lower RPM"... thats sad. The engine really starts to sing above 6k RPM.
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I have no idea... as far as I know, they very well could be the originals. So far I have done all the fluids change and motor mounts. In the near futur, I want to do the spark plugs and coil packs, then the water pump, idler pulleys and belt.
Load the free MyCarFax app on your smartphone. Then run your VIN and see what maintenance history is pulled. My guess is you have a fuel (fuel pump) or spark (plugs or coil pack) problem. If those can be rulled-out, then you have an issue with the vario-cam change-over.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.
Load the free MyCarFax app on your smartphone. Then run your VIN and see what maintenance history is pulled. My guess is you have a fuel (fuel pump) or spark (plugs or coil pack) problem. If those can be rulled-out, then you have an issue with the vario-cam change-over.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.
Originally Posted by Steph1
Carfax didn't show much, but I can check it again. Although no engine light is on, I have been feeling some burps and stumbles while idling and the rpm needle slightly moves at idle. But the engine pulls string with zero hesitation up to 4200rpm in lower gears.
Your car's performance is NOT normal. In fact, all the fun starts at 4,200 rpm.
Will consider the plugs and coils sooner than later.
I am the broken record for the forum on this but get all of your mileage and maintenance up to date - all of it. It makes problems less frequent and easier to diagnose when they do happen.
Not sure if the work has already been done? If there isn't a written record (typically receipts) then it has not been done. Oil, plugs, filters, belt, coils, drivetrain fluids, brake fluid, etc.
The smartest move is to buy the car conditionally after the seller brings the car up to date. If you need to push back offer to pay half of the costs. But good P cars and their owners are always up to date on both time and mileage.
Not sure if the work has already been done? If there isn't a written record (typically receipts) then it has not been done. Oil, plugs, filters, belt, coils, drivetrain fluids, brake fluid, etc.
The smartest move is to buy the car conditionally after the seller brings the car up to date. If you need to push back offer to pay half of the costs. But good P cars and their owners are always up to date on both time and mileage.
Load the free MyCarFax app on your smartphone. Then run your VIN and see what maintenance history is pulled. My guess is you have a fuel (fuel pump) or spark (plugs or coil pack) problem. If those can be rulled-out, then you have an issue with the vario-cam change-over.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.
For example, regardless of mileage, your plugs should have been changed in 2011, 2015, and again this year in 2019.




