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I have a 997.1 carrera s 2005, with sport chrono & pse. When I push the sport button, I hear the valves opening but no change in sound. Is the sound difference that different?
Yes it's quite different - you do need to momentarily take your foot off the gas but this will happen fairly quickly in the driving cycle. Mind you I do have sport cats...
1. What speed are you going? PSE doesn't kick in until about 35 mph and about 3,000 rpm as a result of adhering to Swiss law. It is under the control of the ECU.
2. If you disconnect the PSE circuit at the solenoid (on top of the engine) and you hear the change in exhaust noise right away (at any RPM), then the solenoid is bad. I think it's a $25 part at Pelican.
3. If you disconnect the PSE circuit at the solenoid and do *not* hear any change in the exhaust noise right away (at any RPM), then you probably have bad PSE vacuum valves.
4. It's also possible to have bad vacuum valves *and* a bad solenoid -- this is what happened to me.
^^My experience owning 4 cars with PSE (2 996C4S & 2 997C4S) all made the PSE sound when started ----> Perhaps at higher RPM the sound was more prominent but you can hear PSE on startup for sure
The PSE vacuum lines to the module can get clogged and therefore when depressing the PSE dash button will not turn on the PSE flappers/sound
Hi all!
After some reading today, i have checked the actuators underneath and they’re both open.
They don’t close anymore, however when pushing the SPORT button I hear an obvious click. Probably originating from the actuators.
The thing that bothers me is that at idle and don’t feel or see any exhaust fumes from the inner pipes. The sport exhaust valves are inside the inner pipes.
Looking more closely, the valves are stuck in closed position. Difficult to tell but the actuator is not fully extended. I was wrong.
To test the valves I can not exercise enough force. What is the best way to test them manually, remove the exhaust tips?
Looking more closely, the valves are stuck in closed position. Difficult to tell but the actuator is not fully extended. I was wrong.
To test the valves I can not exercise enough force. What is the best way to test them manually, remove the exhaust tips?
If you can’t get to them, probably dropping the mufflers is your best bet to test them manually. You can then replace the vacuum units while they’re out. Part #99711168001
If you are dropping the muflers, you could probably also do some refurbishing to make it worth the time either DIY or by someone who knows what they are doing.
IDK if this is helpful but when I was looking at Fister Exhaust stuff, I came across this video: https://youtu.be/ouONcy61ZeE
If you are dropping the muflers, you could probably also do some refurbishing to make it worth the time either DIY or by someone who knows what they are doing.
Decided not to drop the muffler, since bought the car from a garage queen.
I have removed the rear bumper and the heatshield. I soaked all moving parts of the pse valve and actuator in WD-40. Pretty easy technique, thought the removal of just pse tips would not be sufficient to exercise enough force on the pse valves. And was right the PSE valves are completely seized, very minimal movement of actuator (few mm) when pushing the sport button. Will continue and post maybe a video to show the operation.
I believe the vacuum switches are made to allow vacuum or to not allow vacuum. Depending on what you buy, it might be opposite of what you need. Be sure to order the Porsche part. I suspect some of the cheaper aftermarket ones might state fits your car, but still might be wrong.
I am going through this now. I tested the vactuators behind bumper and both seemed one needed to be replaced, but the exhaust flaps moved when fixed. However now that I have the cover on, I still have the problem so I am ordering a new switch and a couple of the hoses just incase they got brittle and leak. Beware some of the hosed come from Germany and are special order or not available. Any hose that is temp resistant and same size should do.
Got both of them free to move, by opening the ball joint. Was rusted/seized in place. However the pse on the right side, the valve shaft has disconnected from the plate connecting the ball joint (see picture red circle). Can you use some metal glue high temperature to reconnect it?
I would see if you can get borrow or steal a welder and spot it to shaft.
Also I just fixed my PSE. of course your flaps must be free and the actuators intact.
Took this bas boy switch off and brought it to bench. Put two lengths of tube on the outlets and pulsed 12 volts through the switch. When activated it let vacuum through. Switch was good. I installed with hoses as in parts diagram, with the y connector off the side and L connector off the bottom tubes, not sure if that matters, but I did as original and every thing works now.
Seeing what you're facing (and now having to address) with your PSE makes me glad / relieved that I did not opt to go the direction of purchasing one. The "on / off" component loses its value if you can't rely on it to function over time.
I replaced my stock 997.2 system for a Tubi system (found a pair of the mufflers used here on the MP). Added a Sharkwerks center muffler crossover. Both purchases ended up costing me 1/2 what the PSE system (installed) would have cost.
Tubi muffler units weigh 8 lbs each compared with 16.5 lbs for the stock mufflers...
06-04-2019, 08:13 AM
Porsche 997.1 s PSE
