Porsche 997.2 GTS Engine Ticking Noise on Idle
05-01-2019, 07:31 AM
#1
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Porsche 997.2 GTS Engine Ticking Noise on Idle
Hello everyone,
I recently purchased my first Porsche 997 Get 2 GTS around 9 months ago. It’s been stored away in the garage over the winter time and I’ve since taken it out to drive it and it now has a terrible ticking noise coming from the rear of the right hand side.
Has anyone come across this before? I’ve had a variety of opinions from a sticking tappet, to bore scoring to valve lift solenoids.
Hopefully someone might be able to shed some light on the issue.
I’ve also found a video on YouTube of another 997 with the same noise, it doesn’t say if or how it was corrected though
The video can be found here:
Thanks in advance
I recently purchased my first Porsche 997 Get 2 GTS around 9 months ago. It’s been stored away in the garage over the winter time and I’ve since taken it out to drive it and it now has a terrible ticking noise coming from the rear of the right hand side.
Has anyone come across this before? I’ve had a variety of opinions from a sticking tappet, to bore scoring to valve lift solenoids.
Hopefully someone might be able to shed some light on the issue.
I’ve also found a video on YouTube of another 997 with the same noise, it doesn’t say if or how it was corrected though
The video can be found here:
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Deleted 07.07.2020; 05-07-2019 at 05:23 AM. Reason: Don't want the info about the car to jepordise future sale. Thanks
05-01-2019, 08:16 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
05-01-2019, 09:44 AM
#3
Do an audio analysis....
Make a few 10 second recordings at strategic places around the engine, start with left, right and center. Then use any of the free audio editing software you can find online to analyze the wave and the timing of the sound. As an example, if your engine is idling at 600 RPM that means each cylinder fires and each valve opens 2.5 times per second, if the sound is a rod bearing, you should hear that sound 5 or 10 times per second if it's very bad. Also, you can see the duration of the sound, and if it's short enough do be a tappet/valve-train noise, or is as long as a stroke, or two strokes, like leak-down during compression, and blowby during the power-stroke. You may even be able to narrow it down to the cylinder if you use a microphone like the one on a pair of earbuds...just see if you can set the mic sensitivity to "low" on your phone.
You might also make up or buy a mechanic's stethoscope, an experienced ear would be able to tell the difference between metal contact and gas blowby.
You might also make up or buy a mechanic's stethoscope, an experienced ear would be able to tell the difference between metal contact and gas blowby.
05-01-2019, 10:18 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
My car used to sound like that sometimes, but i was told by multiple people that its "normal". Now its getting a rebuild, because the cylinder got scored really bad.
Get it scoped.
Get it scoped.
05-01-2019, 10:27 AM
#5
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Make a few 10 second recordings at strategic places around the engine, start with left, right and center. Then use any of the free audio editing software you can find online to analyze the wave and the timing of the sound. As an example, if your engine is idling at 600 RPM that means each cylinder fires and each valve opens 2.5 times per second, if the sound is a rod bearing, you should hear that sound 5 or 10 times per second if it's very bad. Also, you can see the duration of the sound, and if it's short enough do be a tappet/valve-train noise, or is as long as a stroke, or two strokes, like leak-down during compression, and blowby during the power-stroke. You may even be able to narrow it down to the cylinder if you use a microphone like the one on a pair of earbuds...just see if you can set the mic sensitivity to "low" on your phone.
You might also make up or buy a mechanic's stethoscope, an experienced ear would be able to tell the difference between metal contact and gas blowby.
You might also make up or buy a mechanic's stethoscope, an experienced ear would be able to tell the difference between metal contact and gas blowby.
05-01-2019, 10:29 AM
#6
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Ah really? Doesn't sound good at all... Is your car a Gen 2 also? What mileage has yours covered and do you mind saying how much you were quoted for the rebuild?
Last edited by Deleted 07.07.2020; 05-07-2019 at 05:23 AM. Reason: Removed name, Don't want the info about the car to jepordise future sale. Thanks
05-01-2019, 10:44 AM
#7
Instructor
My 2010 C4S sounds similar to this but ticking isn't as pronounced...but close. Dealer and everyone stressed it was normal. Wondering if GTS options make it a bit louder?
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05-01-2019, 10:59 AM
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Thanks for your response. I've also had people say it's normal, but the noise wasn't there last year before it was garaged before winter so I don't think it is. I would've noticed that noise previously for sure...
05-01-2019, 10:59 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
05-02-2019, 04:18 PM
#10
Just to throw out some low cost trouble shooting ideas to consider:
I'd inspect the tensioner and idler bearings to see if they're worn down or going bad.
Also, maybe consider changing the engine mounts (typically due at around 100K). That might reduce vibration which might make this sound disappear.
Hope it is not anything else. Please update your findings here.
I'd inspect the tensioner and idler bearings to see if they're worn down or going bad.
Also, maybe consider changing the engine mounts (typically due at around 100K). That might reduce vibration which might make this sound disappear.
Hope it is not anything else. Please update your findings here.
05-03-2019, 01:36 AM
#11
Former Vendor
I know that rhythm and tone. You need a stethoscope, and a 40 dollar borescope from Amazon..Save the leakdown and compression test- they won't show you anything unless the compression test is done "running" and unless the damage is into the 3rd stage.
05-03-2019, 02:35 AM
#12
Nordschleife Master
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05-03-2019, 07:32 AM
#13
Former Vendor
Not saying that it’s for sure the issue, but when a noise like this pops up in these engines this is the very first thing that needs to be ruled out. Typically people start with valvetrain issues as a probable culprit, and they often misdiagnose the issue. They can even mistreat the issue by following this wrong path at the onset.
Once the bore scoring is ruled out, you can then move on to simpler possibilities with certainty that you won’t waste time and money.
