Price check on 2005 997 C2S
Exterior and interior are a 9/10; it has 35,000 miles, but there is one flaw: a small crack on the front bumper (looks like someone probably sideswiped the car in a parking lot, or a out-of-control shopping cart hit it. I didn't notice it at first, and it is probably a $900 repair (to fix and repaint). The car has a full front clearbra, good tires, and is up to date on service.
Build: seal grey, optional 19" Carrera 5-spoke wheels, Sport Chrono, and 18-way adaptives.
The guy is asking $38,500, which includes the bore-scope I requested.
I haven't been looking at a 997.1, but this one piqued my interest, as it is clean and very tight, not to mention I love the 18-ways. It would be a nice good-weather daily; I need something that isn't my pickup but that also isn't me borrowing my wife's GT4.
What do you think about the price? I think it is fair to a bit high; that is more like 2006-2007 pricing, but then again, a base 2009 with these options would probably set you back around $45k in this condition.
When I was shopping, I noticed most (not all) '05's were priced accordingly considering you may have to have the IMSB replaced. Since the clutch sounds good on the one you test drove, you can also ask to get the engine number to cross reference it to determine if it has the larger IMSB and if it even needs to be changed at all. If you can live with the bumper repair, it sounds like a good car for the price.
You saw my car at Dallas Motorsports before I picked it up, and Mayo found that it had paint work on the passenger side of the car. As long as there is not structural issues during the PPI, you should be good.
Also, don't freak out when you get the bore scope images back. As you know, I still bought mine with what most determined to be "streaking" and not bore scoring. I've exchanged bore scope images privately here with other members with .1's with similar miles and I'm beginning to believe that there would be some sort of vertical lines or wear marks (not gouges) on all of our cars if we bore scoped them all. I could be wrong, but my car doesn't exhibit any other bore scoring signs (little to no oil consumption, no fouled plugs, no sooty tail pipe, first used oil analysis came back great, etc.) and yet the pics from my bore scope seemed a little alarming. I'm not trying to down play bore scoring, but if everything else checks out, it sounds like a great car.
Keep us posted!
G
When I was shopping, I noticed most (not all) '05's were priced accordingly considering you may have to have the IMSB replaced. Since the clutch sounds good on the one you test drove, you can also ask to get the engine number to cross reference it to determine if it has the larger IMSB and if it even needs to be changed at all. If you can live with the bumper repair, it sounds like a good car for the price.
You saw my car at Dallas Motorsports before I picked it up, and Mayo found that it had paint work on the passenger side of the car. As long as there is not structural issues during the PPI, you should be good.
Also, don't freak out when you get the bore scope images back. As you know, I still bought mine with what most determined to be "streaking" and not bore scoring. I've exchanged bore scope images privately here with other members with .1's with similar miles and I'm beginning to believe that there would be some sort of vertical lines or wear marks (not gouges) on all of our cars if we bore scoped them all. I could be wrong, but my car doesn't exhibit any other bore scoring signs (little to no oil consumption, no fouled plugs, no sooty tail pipe, first used oil analysis came back great, etc.) and yet the pics from my bore scope seemed a little alarming. I'm not trying to down play bore scoring, but if everything else checks out, it sounds like a great car.
Keep us posted!
G
Your car at Dallas Motorsports looked very clean as well! It was an '06, right? If it weren't for the potential bore scoring issue, any .1 would be an insane deal, considering how much performance and engagement they offer for the money.
For reference, in the past few months I've only seen two 2006-2008 C2Ss with <40k miles list at $40k, and they were both sold within days. Most list in the $44-46k range.
Re the bumper, I would speak to a shop to confirm the $900 is feasible. I thought the same but my auto body guy told me it was more like $1500 because it takes some time to remove the bumper. You might get a better deal if you remove it yourself.
Good luck!
Bumper---> Replacement of front bumper cover is the only way to go - Any reputable shop will REPLACE the cover not repair it.
Cost will be close to $1800 for OEM bumper cover and excellent proper color match paint - Both extremely important so don't skimp on this - You will re-coupe on resale big time
Good luck going forward and keep us posted.
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Bumper---> Replacement of front bumper cover is the only way to go - Any reputable shop will REPLACE the cover not repair it.
Cost will be close to $1800 for OEM bumper cover and excellent proper color match paint - Both extremely important so don't skimp on this - You will re-coupe on resale big time
Good luck going forward and keep us posted.
After driving it over to the shop again this morning, my overall feeling was that "this is a lot of car for the money!". It honestly feels tighter than did my 997.2 with 50k miles. Maybe it wasn't driven hard, and the .2 was, or perhaps the previous owner already has had a suspension refresh. I have records from the "40k service" although it wouldn't have been the first one, as the car is 15 years old.; it was performed 1 year ago. I may reach out to the original owner at some point, as his name is on the title still (signed over to the dealer).
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For reference, in the past few months I've only seen two 2006-2008 C2Ss with <40k miles list at $40k, and they were both sold within days. Most list in the $44-46k range.
Re the bumper, I would speak to a shop to confirm the $900 is feasible. I thought the same but my auto body guy told me it was more like $1500 because it takes some time to remove the bumper. You might get a better deal if you remove it yourself.
Good luck!
The "owner" of the car was super worried when I got the car properly warmed up and saw what it could do on my test drive. He didn't like the fact that I was pulling the engine in 2nd to redline before shifting; he said "won't driving the car hard damage the motor? Are you sure this is OK?". That is probably why some people get bore scoring: short trips without the engine getting properly warmed up and fluids properly distributed. I told him it is better to get the car nice and warm and put it through its paces, although I don't think he believed me.




