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If you want another toy purchase an 80 or 90 ft/lb tourqe stick. They will limit your impact gun and you can do the rest by hand.
Good point. Those are handy, but I find the impact guns with sockets, actually mess up the edges and finish of the heads from the hammering effect so I loosen them with a breaker bar, then finish by hand, and start them by hand and finish with a Snap on Digital torque wrench. Yes, it takes longer, but I'm not working on a pit crew in my garage. I also thread in 2 of the wheel guide pins once once I get the first 2 lug bolts out, especially on the cars with PCCB rotors.
While we're at it - how many people use the specified lube OPTIMOLY TA when they do their wheels?
My caveat - use gloves and caution to make sure this stuff doesn't end up anywhere it doesn't belong. It's a PITA to clean.
I use Marine Grade anti-seize on the threads only - never the seat - every once in a while and torque to 100 ft lbs which is probably similar to the new 118 ft lbs dry torque spec. Considering the spec used to be 96 ft lbs dry, I think this combination gets me well into the range between the two.
Just scuff and paint with silver or black... think of it as annual maintenance.
+1
I find an upside-down egg carton is a great way to do this quickly - poke through all the bottoms, leaving only the heads exposed. I give them two quick coats of rattle-can silver, usually lasts me a couple of years (and several wheels swaps) before they look ratty again.
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