997 Oil Additives and other Preventative Measures?
#1
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I have a great running 997 with a clean bill of health but like many am worried about high mileage onset of potential issues like scoring.
I follow the regimen of no-idle, low rpm warm up, regular oil changes (Mobil 1 0w40), and avoiding excessive load.
Other than treating the car right, I’m wondering if there is anything else that might help protect a higher mileage car.
A good friend tecommended Lucas Oil high mileage stabilizer as a preventative measure. https://lucasoil.com/products/engine...oil-stabilizer
Has anyone had experience with something like this in a Porsche? I’ve also heard switching to a “heavier” oil or one with higher levels of ZDDP could help.
I want to to help protect the engine but also don’t want to foul up the vario cam system or other systems that are expecting a specific formulation and viscosity oil.
I’ve read the epic oil debates and this is not supposed to be that discussion. I’m mainly curious about additives or stabilizers that might prevent wear.
Thanks
I follow the regimen of no-idle, low rpm warm up, regular oil changes (Mobil 1 0w40), and avoiding excessive load.
Other than treating the car right, I’m wondering if there is anything else that might help protect a higher mileage car.
A good friend tecommended Lucas Oil high mileage stabilizer as a preventative measure. https://lucasoil.com/products/engine...oil-stabilizer
Has anyone had experience with something like this in a Porsche? I’ve also heard switching to a “heavier” oil or one with higher levels of ZDDP could help.
I want to to help protect the engine but also don’t want to foul up the vario cam system or other systems that are expecting a specific formulation and viscosity oil.
I’ve read the epic oil debates and this is not supposed to be that discussion. I’m mainly curious about additives or stabilizers that might prevent wear.
Thanks
#2
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Change the oil every year and every 5,000 miles. If you drive in the winter, Mobil 0W40 is fine. Other times of the year, run an A40 Porsche approved 5W40 or 5W50. You don't ned an oil additive.
#3
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The Porsche dealership I use put z-max and pennzoil 5-40 synthetic in my 3.6L 997.1
Additives could be like the old Elephant joke.
Why are you clapping?
It keeps the elephants away.
But there are no elephants around here.
See how well it's working.
Additives could be like the old Elephant joke.
Why are you clapping?
It keeps the elephants away.
But there are no elephants around here.
See how well it's working.
#4
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So why again is 5w40 better than 0w40? Because it is a “thicker” grade offers better protection but in a narrower temperature band?
i drive year round but it’s the northwest so sub-freezing is one or two months out of the year (and the car is in a heated garage).
i drive year round but it’s the northwest so sub-freezing is one or two months out of the year (and the car is in a heated garage).
#5
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Both have the same viscosity rating when hot. The 0W will lubricate somewhat better than 5W when starting a cold engine. My Porsche dealer uses Mobil 1 0W-40.
Last edited by Fahrer; 03-07-2019 at 10:03 AM. Reason: clarity
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How many miles do you drive per year? What is your current oil change interval routine??
The main rub with Mobil 0W40 is that is shears down so much, and falls out of grade. Fine for the winter, not so good for the heat of the summer.
The main rub with Mobil 0W40 is that is shears down so much, and falls out of grade. Fine for the winter, not so good for the heat of the summer.
#7
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Ok, so less that it’s 5w and more that 5w are from other brands (like Motul, etc) that last longer?
i said I wouldnt make this an oil debate![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I drive ~5k/year. The car is new to me but is coming up in next major service where I’ll have the oil changed (in about a momth). Plan to do yearly changes regardless of miles. I’m very careful not to drive it hard unless it’s properly warm and religiously check the oil level. And no tracking. But there is some stop and go traffic on a regular basis so I don’t want to let the oil sit too long.
i said I wouldnt make this an oil debate
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I drive ~5k/year. The car is new to me but is coming up in next major service where I’ll have the oil changed (in about a momth). Plan to do yearly changes regardless of miles. I’m very careful not to drive it hard unless it’s properly warm and religiously check the oil level. And no tracking. But there is some stop and go traffic on a regular basis so I don’t want to let the oil sit too long.
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#8
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so the dealer put z-max in? Did you ask for it?
#10
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Old discussion but relevant to your question. Buy good oil with A40 label and don't add anything.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html
#11
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Old discussion but relevant to your question. Buy good oil with A40 label and don't add anything.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html
#12
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Though 0W flows better when cold than 5W, that means it's also thinner so runs off the cylinder walls easier. A little bit of thickness on cold start up can actually help protect the cylinder walls, but really an 0W/40 or a 5W/40 is fine. What I would do is move to an oil with higher levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous) which provide protection for the engine and valve train. If you're worried about A40 approval, then Motul 8100 xcess is your best bet and if not worried about A40 approval, then Driven DT40 is a better choice as it has slightly higher levels of Zinc & Phosphorous.
Don't introduce any additives, as the base stocks of them can be incompatible with the base stocks or additive packages of the motor oil and do more harm than good.
Use the LN Engineering spin on filter adapter with a metal canister filter - gets you a new bypass valve spring at each oil change and a more robust filter canister, along with their magnetic drain plug.
Don't introduce any additives, as the base stocks of them can be incompatible with the base stocks or additive packages of the motor oil and do more harm than good.
Use the LN Engineering spin on filter adapter with a metal canister filter - gets you a new bypass valve spring at each oil change and a more robust filter canister, along with their magnetic drain plug.
#13
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What is the base stock used for some of these synthetics? If the they are polyol esters, how do they deal with seal swell? For example, Mobil 1 (and some other synthetics) is based on polyalphaolefins. PAOs by themselves can extract some plasticizers from some thermoset elastomers. Mobli adds some polyol ester to the mix to compensate for this. Are polyol ester based lubes compatible with the seals and elastomers used in a Porshce engine? Are they compatible with the piston coatings? Some elastomers are compatible with polyol esters but not PAOs and there are elastomers that are compatible with PAOs and not polyol esters. I use the same lubricant as the label attached to inside of my engine compartment lid - Mobil 1.
#14
#15
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Old discussion but relevant to your question. Buy good oil with A40 label and don't add anything.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...important.html