997 4S Intermix problem
#31
Burning Brakes
OK! So - I got some options now on what to do - would love some advice. The car is worth about $40,000 (maybe), so I don't want to put in $30k of engine.
I'm wondering if I want to just put in an engine and sell it? OR... If I want to put in an engine and keep it for a few years. Any thoughts?
The options I'm interested in below are:
1. My Mechanic's guy: Used 42k mile engine. $13,200 delivered all complete. He's "never had a problem with their engines" - Pros: Cheap, fast, (somewhat) trusted source. 6 mo (or 1 year) warrantee. 42k miles is good. Cons: Used engine with no rebuild brings risk - will I have the same problems in a year?
2. MBMotorsportsrepair.com - rebuilt engine for $15,000 plus delivery from FL to CA. I give them heads and all, they fit it, and send it back. Pros: Rebuilt engine, not crazy money. Cons: Takes 4-6 weeks, shipping might be a LOT across the country. Not sure on rebuild quality
3. LA Dismantler: $20,000 rebuilt engine. Pros: known supplier, rebuilt engine. Not $30k (is that a pro??). CA shipping Cons: $20k is a lot of money!!!
4. DC Automotive: $11,800 - 2006 997.1 - Pros: Cheapest option (maybe - shipping from NC to CA might be $1k each way?). Cons: could be an IMS waiting to happen. Hidden costs. not rebuilt.
5....? Trade it in as is (w/ cracked block) at a Porsche dealer to see if they give me $40-15=25K for the trade in? Then I'm in the same financial position but can upgrade without doing all the work...
I'm wondering if I want to just put in an engine and sell it? OR... If I want to put in an engine and keep it for a few years. Any thoughts?
The options I'm interested in below are:
1. My Mechanic's guy: Used 42k mile engine. $13,200 delivered all complete. He's "never had a problem with their engines" - Pros: Cheap, fast, (somewhat) trusted source. 6 mo (or 1 year) warrantee. 42k miles is good. Cons: Used engine with no rebuild brings risk - will I have the same problems in a year?
2. MBMotorsportsrepair.com - rebuilt engine for $15,000 plus delivery from FL to CA. I give them heads and all, they fit it, and send it back. Pros: Rebuilt engine, not crazy money. Cons: Takes 4-6 weeks, shipping might be a LOT across the country. Not sure on rebuild quality
3. LA Dismantler: $20,000 rebuilt engine. Pros: known supplier, rebuilt engine. Not $30k (is that a pro??). CA shipping Cons: $20k is a lot of money!!!
4. DC Automotive: $11,800 - 2006 997.1 - Pros: Cheapest option (maybe - shipping from NC to CA might be $1k each way?). Cons: could be an IMS waiting to happen. Hidden costs. not rebuilt.
5....? Trade it in as is (w/ cracked block) at a Porsche dealer to see if they give me $40-15=25K for the trade in? Then I'm in the same financial position but can upgrade without doing all the work...
#32
Nordschleife Master
#33
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Since you don't keep a car long.... then it becomes purely a math problem. Look out say 5 years from now...... how much money in the bank will you have with each of your options? Sounds to me doing the cheapest option is in your cards.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#35
Former Vendor
#37
Former Vendor
Just another day at the office. The core is not wasted, this is one of the best failures that we could ask for. None of the components that we reuse see collateral damage from this failure.
You caught it in time, had another crack formed, and the two had connected, then you'd have a D chunk failure, and that's a total loss when it happens at speed.
Usually when this crack occurs the best symptom is an exhaust system filled with coolant, dripping out of the tailpipe.
#38
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
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Both mechanics were baffled at this - so was Porsche when I was talking about trading it in...
Does anyone have theories on how this happened? My mechanics think a previous owner just abused the car, it got the problem, and then they quickly sold it.
Does anyone have theories on how this happened? My mechanics think a previous owner just abused the car, it got the problem, and then they quickly sold it.
#39
Former Vendor
If they were baffled by this, you took it to the wrong shop. This occurrence is very common, and has been since 2002.
How it happened? The cylinder parent material is not adequate for the bore size. The cylinder being an "open deck" design lends heavily into this as well.
This doesn't require abuse, or track work to happen.. I have seen a one owner 997 with a 65 year old female driver suffer this failure, and she over- serviced the car as well. She was also "baffled" as to why it happened. My response "ask the accountants in charge".
This is an easy failure for us to overcome, one of the simplest, with the least amount of collateral damage. You've got one chance to do it right, else you get to do it twice.
#40
I had oil intermix right after I changed a hose on the front right side that rusted out, took a month to get the hose so I came searching on the internet and was pretty freaked out by what I saw. But I didn't have that issue with the milky froth on the oil filler or in the expansion tank, just raw clean oil so I remained hopeful. I bought a new oil cooler and decided to change the water pump to one with a metal impeller as I read that broken impellers can clog up water channels. After the change of those two parts, the residual oil in the system came out to the expansion tank and I skimmed off what was coming out over the course of a couple of days and I'm glad to say no more oil intermix.
I never had any of the symptoms of steam from the exhaust, smell of coolant from the exhaust or any of that, the car does not overheat, it didn't before the intermix and it seems it was just the oil cooler that had failed.
I never had any of the symptoms of steam from the exhaust, smell of coolant from the exhaust or any of that, the car does not overheat, it didn't before the intermix and it seems it was just the oil cooler that had failed.