Another No start problem video attached
01-04-2019, 01:53 PM
#1
Another No start problem video attached
Hey guys!
Before I attempt replacing the starter as my logical next step to solve this problem that is driving me crazy. I have already replaced the battery 2 times and confirmed my battery is in perfect working condition.
Looking at attached video and before wasting my time replace a component that is not causing the problem, would you consider the issue I am facing to be a motor starter problem?
My car is a 997.2 and I was told I don't have the infamous voltage cable problem that 997.1 guys usually would see.
Before I attempt replacing the starter as my logical next step to solve this problem that is driving me crazy. I have already replaced the battery 2 times and confirmed my battery is in perfect working condition.
Looking at attached video and before wasting my time replace a component that is not causing the problem, would you consider the issue I am facing to be a motor starter problem?
My car is a 997.2 and I was told I don't have the infamous voltage cable problem that 997.1 guys usually would see.
Last edited by onsickm; 02-01-2019 at 01:24 PM.
01-04-2019, 11:23 PM
#4
Pro
If it were me, I'd disconnect the battery then check all the connections (positive and ground) from battery to the starter. If all are secure then checking the starter is next. What makes you think ignition switch is sound?
01-04-2019, 11:42 PM
#5
Can I apply battery to solenoid terminal to test starter while ignition is off? would I cause harm if it crank?
01-04-2019, 11:51 PM
#7
Is it ok if I try to start car with intake is out and air hoses are not connected then measure via voltmeter if +12V is going to solenoid when trying to start car? since problem is intermittent, it might actually start the car
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01-05-2019, 01:09 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Just Bump Start it Dude :-)
J/K.... don't do that.
J/K.... don't do that.
01-05-2019, 11:04 AM
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You've got a voltage problem. See how the warning lights in the dash all come on and then as soon as you turn the key, the complete dash goes dark. That's an indicator of a battery that is heavily discharged or a major cable being loose or corroded. You say this is the 3rd battery. I bet if you fully charge the battery or jump start it with a second battery that it starts fine and it's not the starter. Looks like you may have a parasitic drain that's heavily depleting the battery when parked.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
Last edited by Petza914; 01-05-2019 at 11:42 AM.
01-05-2019, 11:50 AM
#11
You've got a voltage problem. See how the warning lights in the dash all come on and then as soon as you turn the key, the complete dash goes dark. That's an indicator of a battery that is heavily discharged or a major cable being loose or corroded. You say this is the 3rd battery. I bet if you fully charge the battery or jump start it with a second battery that it starts fine and it's not the starter. Looks like you may have a parasitic drain that's heavily depleting the battery when parked.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
I leave car on battery tender so everytime I want to start it, battery is fully charged. I highly doubt I have a voltage problem as it is not common on 997.2
I do agree though on why dash goes off when trying to start car. I thought that's normal as it preserve electricity for car to be started.
01-05-2019, 12:08 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
What is the battery voltage when trying to start? The static voltage is 12.4 but what is it while engaging the starter? Does the solenoid click?
I would try the jumpstart trick and see if it starts or at least turns over. Its also possible the 12v cable to the starter is failing. Unable to support the full load of the starter motor.
I would try the jumpstart trick and see if it starts or at least turns over. Its also possible the 12v cable to the starter is failing. Unable to support the full load of the starter motor.
01-05-2019, 02:09 PM
#13
You've got a voltage problem. See how the warning lights in the dash all come on and then as soon as you turn the key, the complete dash goes dark. That's an indicator of a battery that is heavily discharged or a major cable being loose or corroded. You say this is the 3rd battery. I bet if you fully charge the battery or jump start it with a second battery that it starts fine and it's not the starter. Looks like you may have a parasitic drain that's heavily depleting the battery when parked.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
I checked cable between starter and alternator. It is very well connected with no rust/corrosion or anything. My engine bay is extremely clean and no rust on any metal surface.
01-05-2019, 02:11 PM
#14
What is the battery voltage when trying to start? The static voltage is 12.4 but what is it while engaging the starter? Does the solenoid click?
I would try the jumpstart trick and see if it starts or at least turns over. Its also possible the 12v cable to the starter is failing. Unable to support the full load of the starter motor.
I would try the jumpstart trick and see if it starts or at least turns over. Its also possible the 12v cable to the starter is failing. Unable to support the full load of the starter motor.
01-05-2019, 04:03 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
You said 10.99v at the starter, 12.4 at the battery, is that under load? Simultaneously? Obviously you can't read both at the same time but can take both separately while starting. I would expect minimal voltage drop to the starter with a good cable. I'm just throwing it out there as there have been threads out there about starter issues that were related to the cable and one would cause an issue with the other.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
The problem
997.1s can suffer from a slow crank issue when the engine is hot. I believe the issue was fixed in the 2007 or 2008 MY but 2005 and 2006's will probability run into this at some point in their life. When it gets bad enough the car wont turn over until its cooled down, which can result in a bad day.
The issue is related to a bad crimp in the starter/alternator cable that causes resistance to build up and both effect alternator output and starter efficiency. Its a double whammy as your battery will only be at 50-60% charge.
The diagnosis
This can be misdiagnosed as a bad battery, bad starter, or corroded distributor pin and people throw parts and time at until they bite the bullet and replace the cable. I too was hoping my issue was related to one of these as a simpler fix. I would also put my battery on a charger, which would reduce the symptoms for a few days, but within a week my battery would be back down to 60% charge.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ter-cable.html
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
The problem
997.1s can suffer from a slow crank issue when the engine is hot. I believe the issue was fixed in the 2007 or 2008 MY but 2005 and 2006's will probability run into this at some point in their life. When it gets bad enough the car wont turn over until its cooled down, which can result in a bad day.
The issue is related to a bad crimp in the starter/alternator cable that causes resistance to build up and both effect alternator output and starter efficiency. Its a double whammy as your battery will only be at 50-60% charge.
The diagnosis
This can be misdiagnosed as a bad battery, bad starter, or corroded distributor pin and people throw parts and time at until they bite the bullet and replace the cable. I too was hoping my issue was related to one of these as a simpler fix. I would also put my battery on a charger, which would reduce the symptoms for a few days, but within a week my battery would be back down to 60% charge.
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.