Originally Posted by TheBruce

Hey there. Welcome! I've got an 06 base. Its a crazy value to get into the 911 world.

Sounds like a reasonable price and all that maintenance is good. I assume if they did the coils at 66k they did the plugs as well? Those should have been done at 40k and 80k. What about cabin and engine air filters? These cars like to be driven so I wouldn't be concerned about miles if its been well maintained.

Here is a list I wrote down the other day on things to check in a 997.1

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Preface
We tend to have a handful of 997.2 guys on the forum who like to flame topics like this with inflammatory comments and broad generations about the M96/M97 engine. Pls take with a grain of salt. The 997.2 has a better engine but the 997.1 is highly reliable car that trades at a ~$15k+ discount. To each his own.

Major Mechanical
- IMS: extremely low/negligible risk for 2006 to 2008 model years. 2005 model year needs a replacement bearing if its already not been done. Some late year production 2005's have the newer large bearing found in the 2006 model year. You can estimate using the engine number. (Not applicable for you)
- Bore Scoring: affects a very small number of cars. Largely been isolated to cold weather cars in midwest and Canada. Results in high oil consumption, left tailpipe that is sooty and eventually a loud knocking. Potentially a result of high ethanol in the fuel, improper warmup, nobody knows for sure. Focus you search on warm weather cars. It it spent anytime in cold climates just make sure you get the bores scoped during PPI.
- RMS: can develop a small leak in earlier production cars but not a big deal. Typically just gets replaced when you replace the clutch. The seal itself costs maybe $20 and easy to replace when the clutch is out. (Probably not an issue with yours or they would have replaced it at 66k.)

Wear & Tear
- Note: all of these can be done inexpensively if you are a DIY guy. But they can add up if you are bringing it to a dealer. Ive added the part cost and likely labor time if you DIY it or bring to a dealer.
- Water pump: typically need to be replaced every 50k miles. Part $300 / 4-5 hr job (Already done but these need to be replaced every 5 yrs)
- Coolant Expansion Tank: they get brittle with age and can crack. Part $100 / 5-6hr job
- Starter/Alternator Cable: a bad crimp leads to resistance buildup in the cable and a slow crank when the car is hot. Part $150 / 6hr job
- Ignition switch: these can go. Part $150 / 30 min job
- Gas cap seal: these can get brittle and lead to a vacuum leak. Part $50 / 15 min job
- Hood release switch: these can break. Part $150 / 2hr job
- Door latch release arm: these can break. Part $30 / 2hr job
- Air/oil separator: these can go leading to a smoke show. Part is $100 but its a bitch to replace on the base model.
- Strut mounts: these can start knocking a bit at 60k-100k miles
- Clutch / pressure plate: people typically are getting 50-100k miles on these. The pressure plates on the 997.1 tend to be a weak point leading to a premature clutch replacement.

Maintenance Schedule
- Oil every 5k miles
- Brake flush every 2 years
- New plugs every 40k miles
- Likely want to replace the transmission fluid even though it technically lasts for 100k miles

Cosmetic
- AC switches: soft touch paint gets chewed up. Easy DIY install. they cost $150 from https://www.macarbon.com
- Center console: same issue with the soft touch paint. Can cover in leather, buy a new one for $600 or DIY respray if for $20

"Must Have" Mods
- Fister Exhaust
- Eibach springs and spacers (these are required on a base model because its got a 4x4 stock ride height)
- LaPower bluethooth module to bring the PCM into the modern age with hands free calling and streaming audio
- Some will recommend adding a 3rd radiator and low-temp thermostat

Additional PPI Recommendations
- I dont think a leak down is applicable to these modern cars. If you had any issues you would get a CEL.
- However, do get the bores scoped during your ppi to make sure no scoring. Check to see if the driver side exhaust has more soot than the passenger.
- Ask the current owner what oil they use and how much oil they have to add between changes. My car burns no oil. Some cars burn more. You just want to make sure its not burning excessive oil.
- You must check the DME for overrevs. Anything above 4 is a shady.
- Check the PH of the brake fluid. That needs to be replaced every two years.
- Get the engine up to temp and then turn the car off. If the starter is slow or sluggish you need to replace the starter/alternator cable
- Get a flashlight on the coolant tank and inspect carefully
- For a car with these miles I would ask them to remove the oil filter and inspect for any debris. You will lose a little oil but they can top it off, or you can just split the oil change with the current owner. Lots of shiny metal flakes are bad. Also look for any brownish specks. Thats chain tensioner. If the filter is clean you know you have a pretty solid engine.
- If you want to get really thorough you can remove the oil pan to inspect for any debris. If the filter is clear thats not required.
- Does the car smoke on cold start? That would be Air/Oil separator.
- Check the air filter. Inspect the throttle body.
- Does it clatter at all or knock?
- Any obvious leaks.
- Check the age of the tires. You need to get on all fours and inspect the inside edge of the rear tires. Those go first.
- Check the shock bump stops. They sometimes rot with age and fall apart.
- When you start the car is there any delay between when you turn the key and the starter engages? If so, you ignition switch needs to be replaced.
- Do you hear any knock from the suspension when going over bumps. If so your strut mounts need to be replaced.
- Check all the buttons, switches and seat adjustments to make sure they work
- How is the paint?
- How are the headlights and foglight. If they are oxidized they can be polished out. However if the foglights are crazed from sun there is nothing you can do.
- Alignment during driving. Should track true and no wobble in the wheel at any speed
- It should shift smoothly in all gears with no grinding. If the car is cold or hasn't been driven in a while it can be a little sticky to get into first.
- How is the windshield seal and cowling?


Keep us posted.

Originally Posted by Zuccs

Originally Posted by Zuccs