How do you properly torque a drop link on 997?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How do you properly torque a drop link on 997?
After breaking my second T30 torx bit...the first one I blamed on being a cheap Harbor Freight socket...the second a more named brand one picked up at Home Depot - I'm convinced the issue isn't the torx bit but my approach.
As pictured, I put a wrench on the nut and put the T30 torx socket on the torque wrench (set to 48lbs spec).
This approach isn't working. Should I just be using the T30 to only hold it still on a regular socket wrench and just use a wrench to get it "gutentight" or is there a proper approach I'm missing?
#2
Poseur
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That's roughly half the torque you will put on a lug nut, so that can give you an idea of how much you need to go. You'd be surprised how accurate you can be without the torque wrench. The more you do it, the more accurate you will become, particularly when you are dealing with close quarters and limited access.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
That's roughly half the torque you will put on a lug nut, so that can give you an idea of how much you need to go. You'd be surprised how accurate you can be without the torque wrench. The more you do it, the more accurate you will become, particularly when you are dealing with close quarters and limited access.
#4
Rennlist Member
After breaking my second T30 torx bit...the first one I blamed on being a cheap Harbor Freight socket...the second a more named brand one picked up at Home Depot - I'm convinced the issue isn't the torx bit but my approach.
As pictured, I put a wrench on the nut and put the T30 torx socket on the torque wrench (set to 48lbs spec).
This approach isn't working. Should I just be using the T30 to only hold it still on a regular socket wrench and just use a wrench to get it "gutentight" or is there a proper approach I'm missing?
#5
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like you are trying to loosen/tighten the torx instead of the nut.
My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it. Once it was tight I then could remove the pass-through socket and torque it down.
My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.
My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it. Once it was tight I then could remove the pass-through socket and torque it down.
My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.
Last edited by TheBruce; 12-11-2018 at 03:07 AM.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sounds like you are trying to loosen/tighten the torx instead of the nut.
My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it when torquing it back town.
My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.
My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it when torquing it back town.
My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Awesome! Send some pics!! Love to see how it turned out and any look forward to reading your writeup.
Btw - did you change your strut mounts? I put an update to the thread this may be a worthwhile investment.
Btw - did you change your strut mounts? I put an update to the thread this may be a worthwhile investment.
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#8
The proper procedure is to be fully on the ground with weight on both wheels of that axle. If the drop links are adjustable length then remove any preload (common with lowered cars). Finally tighten everything to spec. If done improperly and too much preload is added to the suspension, you could get some snap steering effects coming out of a hard corner. Can be very scary and even dangerous depending upon your speed.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Reading between the lines here - did you torque the drop links while up in the air on jack stands? Or worse with one corner up only?
The proper procedure is to be fully on the ground with weight on both wheels of that axle. If the drop links are adjustable length then remove any preload (common with lowered cars). Finally tighten everything to spec. If done improperly and too much preload is added to the suspension, you could get some snap steering effects coming out of a hard corner. Can be very scary and even dangerous depending upon your speed.
The proper procedure is to be fully on the ground with weight on both wheels of that axle. If the drop links are adjustable length then remove any preload (common with lowered cars). Finally tighten everything to spec. If done improperly and too much preload is added to the suspension, you could get some snap steering effects coming out of a hard corner. Can be very scary and even dangerous depending upon your speed.