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How do you properly torque a drop link on 997?

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Old 12-10-2018, 02:44 PM
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maxw
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Default How do you properly torque a drop link on 997?



After breaking my second T30 torx bit...the first one I blamed on being a cheap Harbor Freight socket...the second a more named brand one picked up at Home Depot - I'm convinced the issue isn't the torx bit but my approach.

As pictured, I put a wrench on the nut and put the T30 torx socket on the torque wrench (set to 48lbs spec).

This approach isn't working. Should I just be using the T30 to only hold it still on a regular socket wrench and just use a wrench to get it "gutentight" or is there a proper approach I'm missing?
Old 12-10-2018, 03:53 PM
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Edgy01
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That's roughly half the torque you will put on a lug nut, so that can give you an idea of how much you need to go. You'd be surprised how accurate you can be without the torque wrench. The more you do it, the more accurate you will become, particularly when you are dealing with close quarters and limited access.
Old 12-10-2018, 04:03 PM
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maxw
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Originally Posted by Edgy01
That's roughly half the torque you will put on a lug nut, so that can give you an idea of how much you need to go. You'd be surprised how accurate you can be without the torque wrench. The more you do it, the more accurate you will become, particularly when you are dealing with close quarters and limited access.
Thanks - that makes a lot of sense. I've properly torqued every nut/bolt to spec after replacing my springs, and these rear drop links are the only ones that put up a fight. I'll relax the OCD on these and go with the educated feel.
Old 12-10-2018, 05:49 PM
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ejabour
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Originally Posted by maxw


After breaking my second T30 torx bit...the first one I blamed on being a cheap Harbor Freight socket...the second a more named brand one picked up at Home Depot - I'm convinced the issue isn't the torx bit but my approach.

As pictured, I put a wrench on the nut and put the T30 torx socket on the torque wrench (set to 48lbs spec).

This approach isn't working. Should I just be using the T30 to only hold it still on a regular socket wrench and just use a wrench to get it "gutentight" or is there a proper approach I'm missing?
Exactly, Use the torx to hold the stud, It is the nut you need to tighten.
Old 12-10-2018, 10:51 PM
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TheBruce
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Sounds like you are trying to loosen/tighten the torx instead of the nut.

My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it. Once it was tight I then could remove the pass-through socket and torque it down.

My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.

Last edited by TheBruce; 12-11-2018 at 03:07 AM.
Old 12-11-2018, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBruce
Sounds like you are trying to loosen/tighten the torx instead of the nut.

My first go I used a pass-thru socket wrench to loosen the nut and held it with the torx. I only needed the torx to steady it when torquing it back town.

My second go I used an electric impact wrench to get it tight and then torqued it down. Didnt even need the torx. Was super simple.
Thanks Bruce - yes - rookie move on my part here. I'm straight on the proper procedure now. Just dropped my C2 off the jack stands tonight - Eibachs and spacers installed with much help from your write ups (huge thank you!). I'm totally stoked, love the look and can't wait to take it out for a drive. Will report back tomorrow after a drive with more feedback and lessons learned.
Old 12-11-2018, 03:04 AM
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TheBruce
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Awesome! Send some pics!! Love to see how it turned out and any look forward to reading your writeup.

Btw - did you change your strut mounts? I put an update to the thread this may be a worthwhile investment.
Old 12-11-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by maxw
Just dropped my C2 off the jack stands tonight - Eibachs and spacers installed with much help from your write ups (huge thank you!).
Reading between the lines here - did you torque the drop links while up in the air on jack stands? Or worse with one corner up only?

The proper procedure is to be fully on the ground with weight on both wheels of that axle. If the drop links are adjustable length then remove any preload (common with lowered cars). Finally tighten everything to spec. If done improperly and too much preload is added to the suspension, you could get some snap steering effects coming out of a hard corner. Can be very scary and even dangerous depending upon your speed.
Old 12-11-2018, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBruce
Awesome! Send some pics!! Love to see how it turned out and any look forward to reading your writeup.

Btw - did you change your strut mounts? I put an update to the thread this may be a worthwhile investment.
Saw your post about this but didn't change them. If the car had more miles on it or if was paying a shop to do the job I definitely would have done it while in there. However the car has just over 26k miles - and I did inspect them and they seemed fine. If ultimately feel they need replaced, not too big of a deal to go back in there now that am experienced with the job. I'll post some pics on your thread shortly!

Originally Posted by semicycler
Reading between the lines here - did you torque the drop links while up in the air on jack stands? Or worse with one corner up only?

The proper procedure is to be fully on the ground with weight on both wheels of that axle. If the drop links are adjustable length then remove any preload (common with lowered cars). Finally tighten everything to spec. If done improperly and too much preload is added to the suspension, you could get some snap steering effects coming out of a hard corner. Can be very scary and even dangerous depending upon your speed.
Thanks for the warning. They're just stock and not adjustable. I did have all 4 corners up on jackstands, and a floor jack under the wheel carrier to weight it a bit before tightening. Hopefully that will suffice. Trying to torque while on the ground would be a pretty tight squeeze.
Old 12-11-2018, 11:11 PM
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Yea the best I could do was jack up the wheel carrier until it was at the right approximate height and then torque down.
Old 12-12-2018, 03:36 PM
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dont torque yet..just have it torque in the aligment rack.. all weight is on the wheels and u have easy acces under the car..



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