Another battery rolls over
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Just plug a trickle charger into cigarette lighter when you park a car. I do it all the time. Short trips, long trips. I am on my 9th year on my MaxxEverStart from Walmart (it was made in Spain back then). I bought another one but original doesn't want to die. Just measure with voltmeter once a while. It should be around 12.7V fully charged at 20 deg C
#17
Rennlist Member
The products this company makes it the way to go. I haven't had a battery fail on any of the dozen or so cars I have stored. We also use them on my company fleet trucks and RV. Absolutely keeps batteries alive. All batteries including Lithium. https://www.batterysaver.com
#18
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Swedish expat in Latvia
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If you have a CTEK maintainer I would buy the CTEK battery sense.
Connected to phone via Bluetooth.
https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/ctx-battery-sense
Perfect to monitor and maybe even enough range to reach inside house?
I already have quick connector with LED indicator but looking to buy this solution as well for monitoring as my battery slowly died over two weeks time.
Connected to phone via Bluetooth.
https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/ctx-battery-sense
Perfect to monitor and maybe even enough range to reach inside house?
I already have quick connector with LED indicator but looking to buy this solution as well for monitoring as my battery slowly died over two weeks time.
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#20
Racer
My battery died overnight as well. I drove it Sunday morning for a short grocery run and the only indicator that something was up was that the clock had reset itself to 12:00. I reset the time and drove off with no problem, and picked up my groceries. However, Monday morning, the clock had reset to 12:00 again and this time, the car wouldn't start. So, I guess you could say it gave me a warning, but I just didn't heed it. Oh well...next time I'll know to watch for this warning sign! I also replaced my Moll with the WM Maxx H7 for ~$150.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
My battery died overnight as well. I drove it Sunday morning for a short grocery run and the only indicator that something was up was that the clock had reset itself to 12:00. I reset the time and drove off with no problem, and picked up my groceries. However, Monday morning, the clock had reset to 12:00 again and this time, the car wouldn't start. So, I guess you could say it gave me a warning, but I just didn't heed it. Oh well...next time I'll know to watch for this warning sign! I also replaced my Moll with the WM Maxx H7 for ~$150.
#22
Rennlist Member
Assuming you don't have a large parasitic drain due to a weird issue, your problem is shared with just about every other car on the road. You are using a lead acid battery, which was invented in 1859. Why auto makers still use 160 year old battery technology is beyond me. If you want a battery to last more than a couple of years on a non daily driven car, at the very least, you need a good virgin lead AGM battery. They can take an (electrical beating) and not get killed. Odyssey Batteries are awesome. You should look into them. You will save a lot of weight up front too (34lbs vs 68lbs OEM Bosch battery) and your back will thank you for it. BTW, DFI cars take a lot to crank them over, hence the giant OEM battery.
#23
Assuming you don't have a large parasitic drain due to a weird issue, your problem is shared with just about every other car on the road. You are using a lead acid battery, which was invented in 1859. Why auto makers still use 160 year old battery technology is beyond me. If you want a battery to last more than a couple of years on a non daily driven car, at the very least, you need a good virgin lead AGM battery. They can take an (electrical beating) and not get killed. Odyssey Batteries are awesome. You should look into them. You will save a lot of weight up front too (34lbs vs 68lbs OEM Bosch battery) and your back will thank you for it. BTW, DFI cars take a lot to crank them over, hence the giant OEM battery.
The chemical reaction in a battery leaves a precipitate. This part of the chemical equation is one way, the precipitate is permanent. 40 years ago (my last experience as a professional auto mechanic) we'd see batteries that had accumulated enough precipitate to start shorting out plates and even disable complete cells (15% drop in voltage). Shorting was dependent upon how the precipitate settled during the last drive. As long as the car was running (allowing the alternator to supply electrical energy) everything was fine. But there could be a problem on the next start.
Additionally, the precipitate reduces chemical density.
Chemistry is chemistry ... no changes here.
The other major failure was when plates warped and shorted against each other. I believe the grids have improved, better supporting the plates, reducing this failure mode.
Nonetheless, every time the battery supports the electrical system (including parasitic drain) the chemical reaction saps battery life, ads precipitate, and increase the risk of failure.
#24
Drifting
For a car that is stored long-term, say a month or more, is it better to disconnect the battery or keep the car on a battery maintainer? I use a battery maintainer on all of my cars that sit for extended periods but I have often thought about disconnecting the battery instead. Does anyone know which method is better. How quickly does a disconnected battery lose its charge?
#25
It’s called “sulfation.”
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._to_prevent_it
Its one of the reasons why I bought an EV car for short errands (Hyundai Ioniq EV). Use the P car for touring or when the running around has minimal stopping and starting the engine.
Use a battery tender all the time for the P car
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/..._to_prevent_it
Its one of the reasons why I bought an EV car for short errands (Hyundai Ioniq EV). Use the P car for touring or when the running around has minimal stopping and starting the engine.
Use a battery tender all the time for the P car
#26
Drifting
For a car that is stored long-term, say a month or more, is it better to disconnect the battery or keep the car on a battery maintainer? I use a battery maintainer on all of my cars that sit for extended periods but I have often thought about disconnecting the battery instead. Does anyone know which method is better. How quickly does a disconnected battery lose its charge?