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I agree with you but there is a discussion over on the Cayenne 958 forum about coding new batteries. Talked about trying to use Durametric to write to gateway. Apparently only stealerships have this ability.
My 957 Cayenne TTS has the DFI motor (so similar advanced electronics) and I replaced that battery without doing any coding also. It also went completely dead at the body shop during my widebody build that took 18 months and that didn't really cause any issues either, beyond what a dead battery would. Maybe the 958 has some newer tech that relates to coding batteries to cars, but I don't see any value in that except to the dealer service departments. Each day I'm more and more happy about my newest vehicle being an 09 for reasons such as this.
Let us know if you find out something about battery coding in 997s.
I'd like to bring this thread back,... with a focus on the differences between the various CTEK chargers they have in the model line up....
I understand the difference between the 4-step & 8-step chargers,... but there are a number of 8-step options, and it's tough to differentiate.
Anyone understand why we might benefit from any one of them based on our lead acid batteries...
Here are the CTEK options I'm seeing (including the 4-step)...
I have the 7002. It’s an 8-step but the main reason I got it is because it has a “supply” setting, which is useful for maintaining settings and avoiding resets when performing tasks that require disconnecting the battery.
Initially I used the cig lighter plug but switched to the battery-terminal hardwire harness. A tip: if you install that one, cut the rings on the leads so you can slip them over the terminal clamp bolts without removing the nuts. They are captive, and if you remove them there’s only about a 1 in 3 chance the threads will be usable to get the nuts back on. And Porsche doesn’t sell the clamps separately from the cables. My (+) went back on ok but I ended up using a stainless hex bolt from the hardware store on the (-) one.
I also found this comparison write-up from a Amazon review.... No affiliation,... just potential useful info when trying to choose a model.....
(... I also think the pricing has come down a bit too compared to a year ago when this write-up was submitted...)
" January 27, 2018 - Package Type: Standard PackagingVerified Purchase
I've ended up with four CTEK's. Batteries are expensive, and after much research, I've found that CTEK is the one to get, to protect that investment.
Other chargers can damage batteries if left on too long. See Jay Leno's videos explaining this.
CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery ($117) of the four CTEK's that I own, this is my favorite, because it has all the features of the CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002, with more power capability.
The CTEK 56-864 Mus 4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic ($60) is a nice alternative if lower cost is required. (see below)
CTEK 56-864 Mus 4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic ($60) of the four CTEK's that I have, this is my favorite below $100. The "mode select" and multi-LED's are nice, and it indicates desulfer, and recondition modes.
CTEK (56-158) MULTI US 3300 12 Volt Fully Automatic 4 Step Battery Charger ($65) -
This one gave me "buyers remorse". For $5 less, I prefer the CTEK 56-864 Mus 4.3 mentioned above.
The fewer LED indicators on the 56-158 leave something to be desired for information, as compared to the other CTEK's models.
It also does not have an LED to indicate "recondition" mode, but the manufacturers information says that it does it automatically.
CTEK (56-865) US 0.8 12 Volt Fully Automatic 6 Step Battery Charger ($45)
This one is a nice less expensive choice as a CTEK for "healthy trickle charging maintenance", but the lack of extra features would lead me to choose the CTEK 56-864 Mus 4.3 12 Volt Fully Automatic ($60), or the CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery ($117) if I would only have one.
The CTEK (56-959) MUS 4.3 TEST&CHARGE 12 Volt Fully Automatic Charger and Tester ($87), would be a nice choice if you do not have other testing equipment,...
but I am handy with other equipment for "testing" so I'll probably never get this one.
Be careful to not be rough with the alligator clips, because the plastic is brittle and breaks easily. Once the plastic insulator breaks off, you then have an exposed metal clamp.
Also, if you get one of the high power units, and also a low power unit, the leads are interchangeable, but the smaller unit will have a smaller in-line fuse that can "blow" if it is used with the higher power unit."
Right now I am leaning towards spending the extra $25 or so, to get the 7002. I do a lot of DIY in my garage and the "Supply" feature seems like something I could use.
=Steve
A Porsche branded CTEK came with my 997.2...it is identical to the CTEK I already owned. I also have a 4 gang Battery Tender, which works great on my 69 S...keeps both batteries alive very well.
yes, I already have a 2-gang Battery Tender mounted to the wall which services some older 60's Camaro's,... and I currently have a Battery Tender Jr on my '91 964.
And my family actually bought me the Porsche branded CTEK directly from the dealership parts dept, but it was like 3 times the cost of the 4-step 3300 directly from CTEK.
HENCE the reason I am asking the questions for comparisons above. I know I want a good CTEK 8-step for my 997,... I just do not know which one - Seems like the choice is own to a MUS4.3 or 7002
... but again I cannot tell why one would be better than the other.
I have the noco 3500 which is comparable to the ctek4.3, just get one of these two. Ive had both and found them to be similar but feel the noco is built better (better housing and better clamps). What these multistep units are doing is utilizing a microprocessor to monitor the voltage on the battery to determine how to adjust the charge profile (ie desulphate, slow charge and then fast charge and once completely charged to stop charging but monitor for voltage drop which then induces trickle charging). 3-4A of charging current is ideal for a auto battery as the fast chargers can boil out the electrolyte solution or overheat the battery.
The other thing is most people don't realize auto batteries have 6 caps over the cells which should be properly filled with distilled water and a little epsom salt before charging, otherwise the cell will eventually sulfate and short out.
I also use Noco's for our camper battery and for our cars. Our camper batter was originally a lead acid battery, then I upgraded to an AGM battery. Same thing with both of our cars. The Noco's can charge/tend both types of batteries. And while you can manually select your type of battery, both of my Noco's identify the battery type on startup and charge/tend accordingly.
I initially went with the G1100, which worked fine to top off and tend my camper's battery. However, that model is a bit small and took at least overnight (sometimes longer) for it to top off a battery. I upgraded to the G7200 to be able to charge larger batteries, and do it faster. The 3500 that @aaks38 is using is the happy medium between the 1100 and the 7200, and is probably more than adequate for most car batteries.
CTEK updated their line..... I have an older MUS 4.3 but now they enhanced that model and is now the MUS 4.3 Test & Charge. The old 4.3 is now the CTEK 40-206 MXS and looks to be cheaper at about $68.
For me, cheaper is better. I think these added features are just up charges for us regular car owners.... I just want to keep my battery in top shape... no more than that. I like to think I am smarter than the next guy, but I find myself lusting after some stupid feature that I will never use... is the feature stupid or is it me?
12-07-2018 | 10:47 AM
